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using lexia access engine ecu, go to parameters, find informatio that tells you if imobilizer has unlocked the ecu

pretty sure you wont have a distributor on that age vehicle

I assume from this you mean the key folds down and turns anti clockwise in the gnition barrel?......do you have mch other stuff on the the sam key ring?, is it heavy? Personally it doesnt sound like a fault, but i would suggest you take it to your dealer and demostrate the fault to get a more constructive diagnosis.

The steering pull as you describe it is 99% certain to be the top suspension mounts that are seized....they are suposed to have bearings in them to allow the steering to centre.....hope that helps you

If the speedo needle isnt moving but the odometer continues to clock up the miles you can be certain the fault is with the speedo head. If the needle and odometer stop moving the signal comes from the gearbox speed sensor: 1, the speed sensor is electrically faulty 2, the speedo drive to the sensor isnt isnt turning due to the gear having failed on the differential within the gearbox 3, the geared wheel to the speedo drive from rhe differential isnt driving the sensor 4, electrical failure between speedo drive & speedo head

Had a customer that used to do private hire from Kent to Yorkshire and his mileage was always up around the 300,000 when he sold them, and still running like new. I remember one ocassion though when he came to me for a clutch to be fitted at 180,000 miles.....he was most pissed off that that it had failed and wasnt prepared to accept that this was a good mileage as most fail by 80,000. As he wasnt satisfied so I asked him what he expected out of it.......... 'Well i got 280,000 out of my last one!'..... cant realy answer that can you!

you havent said in your posts if it is petrol/diesel/manual/automatic/sensodrive model?

Welcome to the Forum http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif Sounds like a relay is sticking somewhere....... its worth telling us how old and what model/petrol/diesel/manual/auto when looking for assistance http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/public/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif

does it sink back and front or just one end?

The Anti sink valves do as their name suggests!.........so does the suspension sink over night or is it just slow to rise?

Hi Eddie, Welcome........you're lucky you managed to register with mp4wizzard.......if i had seen it i would probably have banned you before you spammed the forum with links for dodgy films http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/public/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif . Any how in answer to your question i think you will find the only place to get those parts is your local citroen dealer, as for fitting them......disconnect them one at a time and invest in a broom handle to hold the tailgate up while your strugling to remove and refit them.

Welcome.......Unfortunatley your going to have to replace the locking motor

Welcome back to the Forum, looks like the C5 Experts have got some questions to answer.

Welcome to the Forum....hope you enjoy your time here and find some useful information

Welcome to the Forum.... You wouldnt expect to get any vibration, however, you might detect some vibration through the clutch pedal dependant on the quality of the clutch used.

I take it the engine turns over now?

Welcome to the Forum and thank you for your contribution

Did you have to pull straight up, or did you have to twist and pull?

If the suspension is frozen......allowing for translation i guess it means locked and wont go up or down.....so i suspect rear height corrector requires replacement or linkages.

Back to basics again - Starter motor only goes clunk but doesnt turn engine: - Check the engine will turn freely - can you tun the engine over using a spanner on the end of the crankshaft? (or with ignition OFF, select hight gear, release handbrake and push car back an forth half a wheel revolution. - if the crankshaft pulley isnt turning, it maybe that there is engine damage causing the starter motor not to turn. Assuming the engine turns as above - apply handbake and select neural gear. Checking the Battery: - 12 volts - its been on charge doesnt mean its good - connect multimeter between a good engine earth and the positive terminal - does it read more than 12 volts - turn the lights on - does it still read 12 volts - try starting the car......with the key held right over does it read more than 9 - 10 volts... if its reading less either the battery has a fault or there is a bad earth. Checking the starter motor connections using a multimeter or bulb and wire: - The fat wire should have 12 volts on it when the key is any position......even wih the ignition off.. - The thin wire should have 12 volts on it when the key is held right over in the cranking position. - The starter motor requires a good earth through the engine back to the battery if it is to work - Trace FAT earth wires from battery to body and gearbox - remove and refit - tight doesnt mean its a good connection - To give a quick temporary earth, connect black jump lead to negative on battery and other end to the engine casing. Where do the wires come from? - the fat wire comes from the back of the alternator which inturn is connected to battery.....so if no voltage at startermotor check connection at alternator - The thin wire comes from the under bonnet fusebox which inturn comes from the ignition switch.....whilst it comes from the fuse box there isnt a fuse in that wire. As you will see from above the starter motor has no dependency on the BSI or engine ECU. That doesnt mean that oe or both of them are not faulty but if the engine wont crank over you need to be checking the starter motor circuit first In my opinion from the information you have given me either: 1, the engine is jammed and wont allow the starter to operate 2, the battery isnt holding sufficient charge to turn the starter motor 3 there is a bad earth which would stop the starter turning and probably affect operation of the engine ecu 4, there is a poor connection on the fat wire to the starter motor. I am assuming that the clunk you are hearing is from the starter motor solenoid, which would mean the ignition switch and wire through the underbonnet fusebox to starter is probably good, i have also assumed that this isnt a sensodrive/automatic.

Before you go any further......... ........go find the starter motor.......find the small wire that feeds the solenoid and see if it has 12 volts when cranking the engine. The starter motor wiring does not go through the BSI......if the starter motor isnt turning the engine over sort that out first

Just to confirm with you: 'When you turn the key the starter motor goes clunk and the lights go dim'.......and i assume the engine isnt turned by the starter motor?

the vehicle will only relock itself if the main computer (BSI) doesnt see that the doors have opened. It does this by monitoring the door opening......so......you open door, car assumes you have got in or may have left keys.handbag on seat. To test, unlock car on remote key and wait 30 seconds.......it should relock itself, Do the same thing but open and close one door, it should remain unlocked Try all doors making sure you have locked between each sequence sometimes rear doors arnt linked to the computer so the car doesnt know whether they are open or closed.

Snowflake coming up and bleep is the method used to indicate gearbox faults on the senso drive, he only other time you will see it is if you request the vehicle to operate in snow mode in which case it forces the vehicle to use 2nd gear as its lowest gear (ideal in snow). Unfortunately, i think you need to put pen and papr in car and make notes on when, what gear, speed, uphill, downhill, turning left or right, weather...etc........as much info as possible so you might be in a position to demonstrate the problem to someone or give us a bit more info would also be useful to know if it wont change above third when it happens. Any one else with any suggesions?

To be honnest i havent heard of anyone giving a voltage spike to the BSI by using anything in the cigarette socket.....now i know that doesnt mean its inpossible, but i would doubt that it has caused yu your problems. I would also suggest before you start having components tested that its worhgoing back to basics to see if its something more obvious/cheap thats at fault. I know you have taken it to a main dealer but to be honest that doenst always mean you have had a correct diagnosis.........it could be that someone has looked at it, cant see whats wrong with it and priced up the most expensive bit in the hope that either it fixes it, or you take the car away! so going back to basics: - Are all the Fuses ok within the BSI unit.....take them out one at a time and check them - when you used the tyre pump did you swap a fuse from one slot to another because it blew?.......did you replace it? - is the battery fully charged, have you tried another one or jump leads from another car?.... are you sure its not a battery problem? - does the engine spin over on the starter motor when you try to start it or does it go 'clunk' and the lights go dim? - apart from 'ECO MODE' on the dash is there any other message when putting the key in?......'KEY FAULT', IMMOB FAULT'? - Does the Cigarette socket still work? We would assume that your local dealer has checked these items.....but seeing as its your money your trying to save ,check them again. As far as BBA are concermed i have dealt with them several times in the past and find them very good to deal with........However, i wasnt aware that they were able to check BSI. If BBA are unable to find a faut with your unit and set the software back to as new, it could provide you with additional problems. One being that you may not be able to reprogram the BSI if the fault is still present on he car. Hope some of that helps.......please post back and let us know what happens Any one else with any suggestions?