Simple

Thank you clipper for the complement and good luck with your new car. I have recently been viewing cars that may fit my family, but to be honest, I yet to find a car as an all rounder as the C8. After 7 years together and with all its idiosyncrasies, I have a soft spot in my heart for this gentle beast.

Your case is similar to mine, it happens early morning and once the car is warm, after restarting the car three times it is gone.. Initially I thought it was the DPF, which I took apart and cleaned, it improved the situation but did not resolve it. Then I thought it was the fuel additive, which was not empty, but I topped up (at a cost). Initially there was some strange noise that I thought it was the injectors, then after months it sounded like a bad bearing screeching. I changed the timing belt and associated pulleys (fearing a cut and the bigger disaster), to no avail. I then traced the noise with a flexible pipe and found a leak from the exhaust manifold, used Gun Gum to block it (after cleaning the area) and both the noise and the fault are gone. I bought the Exhaust manifold gasket (6 Euros) and some extra nuts inn case of damage, and waiting for a nice long weekend to replace it. The reason was the DPF reporting wrong pressure to the ECU due to the leakage at the source (Exhaust gasket), so it thinks it is blocked.. The moral of the story, search for a leak before the DPF unit, this may be reporting wrong exhaust pressure readings to the ECU.

Only German has long words like this!!

Your clone seems identical to mine (bought from Aliexpress for 56 Euros Oct 2014). It is considered a Full Chip and has the full optocoplers set, the TDK filter and other smaller components. Some older PSA cars use Lexia or PP2000 through DiagBox on 32bit Windows. The newer cars use DiagBox it self on 32 or 64bit Windows. I have just checked and found the C1 is one of those cars that use DiaGbox!! Now, DiagBox v7 ends at v07.77, any later updates actually belong to v8, so 7.83 is actually update 8.19 adapted for v7. DiagBox v8 and updates 8.01-17 did not need changes to the original files, this is why I did not include 18 or 19 or any further updates which required heavy changes to the original. Hence, you may stand a chance updating to DiagBox 7.83 and if it does not work, perform a full update to 08.17, your car would not benefit from further updates since they are specific to Lexia and PP2000. If you do not want to use Lexia or PP2000 you can use 64 bit Windows and you can name your DiagBox 08.17 (review the posts) instead of 07.817, but I would stick with procedure until you find your feet. I tried to look into PSA site to see which updates cover which cars, but they removed the older archives and the latest available is 08.21. You can check here: http://service.citroen.com/dtt/IFD/AC/documents/en_GB/ Good luck, Simple !

My sons were carefully working on the car; they actually reached near final stages before rolling back. It was a great learning exercize for them, nevertheless.

Your VCI (from the photos) is a full chip one. Also, from the last photo showing the PSA Interface Checker identifying your VCI Firmware as 4.3.0, you don't have (VCI to Computer) USB connection issues. By the way, the latest firmware release is 4.3.5 if you wish to upgrade. Try choosing Citroen C1 manually and entering correct RPO, see if it recognising the VIN #. Failing that, check the car fuses and focus on the connector cable from VCI to OBDII, ensure all wires are connected/soldered properly. Always ensure that your setup connects to other PSA cars so that you don't waste time suspecting a functional setup.

At the latest stages before taking the exhaust manifold out, we hit a show stopper (seized nut and hex bolt), some welding may be necessary to force them out, but we have to prepare replacement parts first. So, due to late hours, we had to reassemle and resort to using Gun Gum to block leakage temporarly. Hopefully we'll have another go some other weekend.

Thanks Paul, You are right, the Service Box documentations are a little short on procedure this time. I don't have the intention or the tools to lift the engine, so I will evaluate access to the various parts before the attempt. It is a little too late to write to coasline taxis as we intend to have a go at it today (if the weather improves; it has been windy and raining all night). I wanted to start before the weekend in case I need to buy unexpected parts.

Last year, my Citroen C8 2.0 HDI engine noise was a tad too high and sometimes there was a smell of diesel fumes after starting (when cold). I could not locate the source visually, so I used an elastic pipe with one end stuck to my ear and the other hovering around the engine until I found the source, which was a small leak in the exhaust manifold gasket. It was not much, so I ignored it. For the past few months I was getting DPF failures, later the car gradually developed a high screeching noise after 1800 RPM (sounds like a bad bearing) that receded to a high pitch whine at high speeds, add to that power was not at its best either. First, I excluded the serpentine belt and the pulleys/bearings associated with it by removing it, starting and revving the engine. At that stage, I was convinced that the noise is either from the Turbo saying his last prayers (since it starts around 1800 RPM) or from the timing belt and associated pulleys/bearings like water pump, tensioner etc... I replaced the timing belt, the water pump, the tensioner and the idling pulley (they were due anyway), but the noise is still present. I was not in a hurry to fix it, until the time for the annual test arrived!!. I then investigated the Turbo, but it was in good form. However, on a cold morning, I started the car and I could see black water bubbles coming out between the manifold and the engine body (near the timing belt) where I identified it earlier. I stuffed the hole in the side of the manifold (probably the gasket has disintegrated) with “Gun Gum†and built an extra ridge reaching the edge to prevent the exhaust force from blowing it out. 1- The screeching noise is “unbelievably†gone. 2- Engine power and responsiveness have improved. 3- The DPF failures are gone (obviously, the sensor was reporting lower pressure than expected). I know this is a temporary solution, which will not last. So I bought the Exhaust manifold gasket for my engine, it was 6 Euros at the dealer, but he did not have it, so I bought Elring from a parts shop. Now comes the difficult part which I was trying to avoid; fitting the gasket!!! I have reasonable experience in car mechanics, and have changed head, inlet manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets for other cars before. However, I have never done that for this engine with the very limited space. I would appreciate advice from those who may have changed exhaust gaskets for this engine without removing the engine. My concerns are these: 1- The disassembling of the manifold and associated parts (like Turbo and EGR) and precautions or preparations? 2- Any further requirements such as gaskets of other components that need to be removed in the process? 3- I am expecting to find that the engine and manifold surfaces at the leakage point have been deformed/pitted and may need to be filled by welding, is this needed?, are there easier ways like filling with Gun Gum or any other past/ compound?. 4- Any other recommendation. Thanks in advance. Simple.

Can you use a UK based proxy server to access the required pages??

If you clean the board and post the photo it might be possible to see if it is easy to repair, or it might not need any repair after all !!

Electrolyte capacitors may swell and would require changing over time, but other semiconductor components are reasonably protected from the elements. I guess the decision would finally be based on availability and cost. This module is fitted to a number of Citroen and Peugeot cars (like C2 and 207) and it came with different prefixes and suffixes to #118470003. I think they are all interchangeable. Mine (Citroen C8 HDi) 9650663880 BSM B5, has the same size and connector layout, the same fuses but different layout, and with 2 extra (20 and 30) amp fuses. Some PSA cars came with 118470003 and the same models came with 9650663880 (with the 2 above mentioned fuses removed). I think 9650663880 can replace 118470003 but not the other way round. Of course it is best to buy the same part with the same part number, unless the manufacturer has replaced the part with a newer better designed one.

Is this the fuse box board? Spray WD40 and clean with a medium brush, I can see some muck or dust on the first photo. Check components for damage (do not remove parts un-necessarily). Resolder the black solder points on the second photo and reconnect the toasted line (if needed). The power deprivation symptoms were coming from the leakage on this board. You can fix a broken power line, a good indication that the feeding component is probably saved, I hope you are lucky.

Agree with Paul. I haven't seen the part for the petrol engines, but when you say re-wiring, do you mean re-plugging the connector or actually re-wiring, if such, why is that? shouldn't it be an exact fit? What happens if he disconnects the connector or inserts it into the original part (while grounded)?, would you still get the error?

Ignore the ECU and BSI communication error message if your Lexia can successfully communicate with the BSI and the ECU individually. Until the mechanic performs all checks and tests, any suggestion is a hit and miss. Am I correct in assuming that the immobilizer error appeared after he changed the throttle body? Is your ECU's firmware original or edited to change the power map or disable things like the EGR and/or DPF?