Jump to content

clipper

Members
  • Content Count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About clipper

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. Well, I have to say thanks to you all on the forum (mainly paul.h and Simple, it has to be said) for the help over the last few years. My "faithful" C8 was delivered to the VW dealer last week in exchange (plus several bags of silver) for a Touran, so I will never know the cause of its various ills. But neither will I have to pay for the repairs... Thanks again and Goodbyeeeee!
  2. I'm still hoping that it is the thrust bearing really, although I'm not sure if that is a good thing to be hoping for as I have no idea of the replacement cost.
  3. In neutral, pressing the clutch partially down (to where the biting point would be if it were in gear) does make the noise go away, without having to depress the pedal to the floor.. In a very quiet garage, I can hear the output side of the clutch spin up when the clutch plates meet on biting point and the noise kicks in at that point, it is directly related to the clutch on the gearbox side or to the gearbox input shaft. I'll take it to the mechanic this week to get the box oil checked.
  4. Thanks. I'll pay more attention next time I drive it and see exactly what clutch action affects the noise. I'm certainly planning the "live with it" solution for the time being, but as you say, things could get catastrophic quite quickly... that said, I have a 32 yr old BMW with a layshaft bearing rattle that's been there for 10 years. That gearbox has 360k on it and still going. Obviously I'm not expecting a C8 box to last that long, but it would be nice to know if this is the beginning of the end, or if we can eek another two years out of it.
  5. Hi all! My long suffering C8 has developed a new "issue" and, ahead of taking it in to see the doctor I can't help but wonder what it might be. At first we noticed a ever louder whining noise, which seems to come from the transmission, and linked to engine speed (downshifting makes the revs rise, the pitch of the whine rise and increase in volume). The noise is now very noticeable on the over-run / under engine braking. Now I have noticed that at idle in neutral, there is a similar, but less intrusive noise. I'm pretty sure that it is the same issue but without load. The noise goes away up
  6. Indeed, I was in "glass half empty" mode... The aircon always worked, but with reduced efficiency. I am assuming that the old electric fan was trying to spin on the lower speed setting, but not managing to do so, then finally spinning a bit when the aircon was engaged. Now the motor cools OK and the aircon cools even better! Time for our second summer holiday in the C8... about 1,000 miles ranging from motorway at 40º heat and 130 kp/h, mountain roads at 7% gradient a,d beachfront roads at 15 kp/h... I touched up a few scratches and re-sprayed a bumper corner last week, so I hope the
  7. I stand corrected on the filling procedure! But in the end I did not have an air lock. It was indeed the fan which had packed up. Cooling system checked, topped up, and fan changed for 250€. Seems fair. It seems it was just an unlucky coincidence that it happened just when I changed the temp sensor. Thanks again for your continued help!!
  8. Thanks for the info. I haven't seen any written procedure for coolant filling specifically for the C8, but as per your write up on the use of the "special tool", it should technically not be required in the C8 as the expansion tank certainly is higher than the bleed points. It is in fact the highest part of the cooling circuit. That doesn't mean to say that I don't have an air leak of course.... More worrying is the statement that the fan is a three speed affair. Mine most certainly is not. In fact, it is possible to have the engine at well over 100ºC and the fan not spinning at all. It w
  9. So, changing the temp sensor didn´t turn out to be such a good idea. On the first trip out after the change, the motor overheated to the point that the "stop engine" warning came on. I assumed that it wasn't related to the sensor itself, but rather to the act of changing it, thinking there may be air in the system. I couldn't find a procedure to bleed the cooling circuit, but I put the nose of the car up in the air with respect to the back, ran the engine hot with the heaters on full and bled the radiator at the bleed screw at the top. I couldn't find any more bleed screws on the thermost
  10. Thanks a lot! My EGR doesn't have a vacuum hose though, it is electrically operated. I guess it is a different system to the diesel motor. I was initially reluctant to buy a code reader to use on this vehicle because frankly, I didn't think it would be in my possession, or even still be running after two years, but maybe it is time to invest! My local mechanic is getting a bit annoyed that I keep "dropping by" to get the codes read. It does look pretty clear that the fuelling is regulated by the 1338A7 sensor given its name in the Service Box. Given its very low cost I'm tempted to just
  11. OK, so time for an update... The C8 has made it through another winter of spluttery start-ups and revving the hell out of it so that it doesn't bog down on pulling away. But in a strange way I am now quite relieved that the fault is getting worse. Relieved in the way that if it is worse it might be easier to find out what's going on. Now the engine doesn't even start if the temperature is below around 12 degrees C. We have to turn it over for a while without it firing, stop cranking for a second or two, then try again. At this point it will start with its "juddery misfire" type symptoms
  12. It was the same old routine this morning according to my wife, but, the EML has been off now for a good while. The engine was flushed with a cleaner at the last service and it seems to have drastically reduced the oil consumption. We think that it has possibly unstuck a gummy piston ring, but no comp test was done before, so we'll never know. That could have been why the EML and polution fault was on, but I would have thought that the cat would complain like hell of burnt oil coming through it? For the start up, it has to be said that it looks like temp sensors to me now. Going on a trip
  13. Yes, I had a can of throttle cleaner and used about a quarter of it cleaning the EGR. The rest I used to clean the throttle (with the motor off). There was a 1mm rim of carbon on the edge of the plate which came off quickly. The majority of the can went on the walls of the throttle and any technical features visible in there. I started it after a few minutes and drove it round the block. The start up was the same as ever, in warm weather you can rev the engine up in neutral after about 5 seconds of spluttery idling. In the cold it is worse, maybe 20 or 30 seconds, and even then it will bog dow
  14. I have just fixed this problem. Rather than broken plastic mounts which I expected after reading this thread,mine had a steel mounting plate, held by three bolts passing through rubber grommets in the plate. The spacers which go through the grommets were a "top hat" design and had been fitted the wrong way around, effectively shimming the motor away from its correct location. Turned them around and bingo. Full sweep from the wiper. The motor had been changed in the past, so the incorrect fitting was almost certainly by a mechanic.
  15. Well, that's that theory blown. The valve is pretty clean, not clogged up at all, moving parts are free and it defaults correctly to the closed position. Back to square 1!! At least the EML has been off since the last big service nearly a month back.
×
×
  • Create New...