jaysams80

There are three types I now find out. I love my C5, honestly.

Just a question of finding out which fluid type it is now.

Brilliant, cheers Paul.h.

My warning has come on and I'm perfectly willing to top it up myself and I know I'll need to reset the computer, but my question is do I have to top up the fluid completely, or can I half fill it? Money is tight at the moment and the fluid is £35 a litre. Thanks.

Me neither. But it kind of makes sense. The lengthened struts were allowing the car to shake uncontrollably. Hey, we learn something new every day..

The wobble has gone. It was due to the car riding much too high at the front (which I knew about) and acting as if it was on stilts. The car height was reset and the wobble has gone.... completely. Happy days.

Big development on the acceleration wobble. The car had been running high at the front for some time. I finally got around to sorting it using the mechanical means of adjusting the clamp on the roll bar. On my first ride out in it all wobble has gone. It would seem the car was so high it was like driving on stilts, allowing all the engine vibration to shake the car. All is well again.

What is the RTA manual Paul?

It was a factory fitted bar with twin electrics so I'm assuming it would have been colour finished. There is generally a lot of corrosion to pipes etc. Maybe time to get rid before something else goes?

The pipe was standard 3/16 brake pipe Paul, cupro/nickel from any motor factors. The unions the same. The ends needed to be mushroomed for the unions I'd bought. The old steel pipe was a bit harder than the cupro/nickel to mushroom but still not difficult. The cause of the leak was corrosion where a bracket that should have held the pipe wasn't seated properly. Between that and the moisture it's sign through. Unfortunately looking at my log book the car was used for its first 7 years at s coastal town, think the salt water has added to the corrosion. The tow bar is in a bad state too.

UPDATE The coating didn't work as there wasn't a good enough key for it to adhere. Instead I have spliced a section of the pipe just away from the hole and the other side of the fuel tank. The job can be done without cutting the exhaust and removing the fuel tank. By removing the 3 bolts holding the fuel tank up and the single bolts holding the filler cap in place you can use a jack to lower the one side of the tank. Be careful not to lower too much and it puts stress on various pipes. The pipe was replaced using straight unions for brake pipes. The car has now been pressurised and all looks well. Jobs a good 'un......so far.

I have asked that question but they tell me it has to go back that way, hmmm. Surely if it's safely secured and not hindering any suspension components it would be okay. Until then I am having an industrial liquid metal coating designed for burst high pressure pipes applied around the pipe. If it works I'll post details of the product as it could save people a pretty penny. I'm not sure what pressure the LDS fluid is at but this stuff can withstand 5000 psi if applied properly. Wish me luck.

Yes, since found out. Very big job. Intermediate exhaust cut out. Remove wheel and arch filler side. Remove additive tank. Remove fuel tank. Bend the new goddamn hose into place. Madness.

So, parked up on the drive today, went out 20 minutes later to a puddle of oil and a steady stream of LDS coming from the rear. Any common issues with leaks back there? It's coated the fuel tank with oil so I'm guessing it's the front to rear high pressure hose routed over the fuel tank. How much of a job to change it?

It looks as though it might be possible with the nearside wheel arch and wheel removed. I just hope that's the issue. Because it's riding high it knocks quite badly over the slightest pothole or speed bump.

Can anyone offer advice on this job please? Can it be done without removing subframe? Is it a straight swap without needing a Lexia to programme anything? Thanks.

So, still not found the source of my tremble under acceleration but I have been told of possible intermediate bearing failure, especially when the heat shield protecting it is missing. The shield protects the grease in the bearing from overheating and weeping out. When I replaced the shaft this was falling apart, so I maybe stupidly removed it. Could this be the cause? Any experiences of this? Plus, on the parts diagram there is a drive shaft bush behind the bearing, does this just hold the bearing in place?

C5-Nigel thanks for that. It's most definitely between certain rev/speed ranges. I've just remembered when the clutch was done in October the mechanic did note some play in a mount, 10 months on that could well have worsened. I'll get them checked next. Cheers.

It was the whole hit. Everything was replaced. I'll chat to the guy in the garage who fitted it about the possibility, it will still be under warranty. Don't fancy forking out for the labour again though to get it checked. The parts were changed as the CV boots were knackered and I'd foolishly let them wear out instead of doing the boots. I changed the drop links as they has to be removed by cutting them with a grinder to changed the driveshaft. The were rusted beyond spanner removal.

It's bugging the hell out of me. The clutch, as its only 9 months old, feels fine, no slipping, no feedback, no noise. Under heavy acceleration it's fine, and slow acceleration too. Surely a DMF would be worse under heavy acceleration. It's medium acceleration where I feel it and I feel it when coasting around 25-30. Everything is tight down there around the wheels. Engine mounts are next on the cards.

Going under it today. I'll check everything. I have access to two poster next week do I'll get a better look at engine mounts then. Cheers.

89'000 but it had a new clutch and flywheel last October. No pedal judder or slipping, thrust bearing feels fine, lovely and smooth in use.

Absolutely no wheel bearing noise at any speed, straight line or cornering.

Cheers Paul.h Both shafts were brand new with a brand new intermediate bearing too. The shimmy tends to disappear when cornering. I will check the torque on the hub nuts as I really should have done after a few drives anyway. The shimmy feels like is on the nearside but it's hard to tell got certain, it could just be resonating from elsewhere. It pulls brilliantly still, cruises nicely at seventy, but is definitely more pronounced pulling away gradually, around 25-30. With the trailer on, pulling uphill is when it's at its worst. I was thinking gearbox or engine mount play, but I think I'd feel it more often if it was.

Just to add, the shaking is worse under load having been towing a small but heavy trailer recently.