jaysams80

Recently replaced the offside driveshaft and drop link. Couple of weeks afterwards the car developed a tremble when accelerating. CV Boot had been split for some time on the nearside so last week I replaced that one too, and drop link. Both track rod ends were replaced last year. The car still has the tremble, especially between 25-30mph at steady acceleration. Quick acceleration and it doesn't seem to be there. What now? I've been told to get the car tracked as there has been so much changed down there? Anyone got any ideas?

Typically when I stripped it down, TWICE, I didn't think to look in there. A job for another day I think.

Just trying to figure out if mine is strained. Had another fuse pop on me after stripping it all down. There is smoke which seems to come from the little black box fixed to the motor, where the power wires clip in.

C5 X7. Should the pump/motor be quiet running? Mine is not. How loud is a healthy pump?

mister-auto-uk on eBay They are very good and very well priced too.

Exactly what happened when I had tyres changed on the front. The fitters then panicked when their garage filled with oil. I managed to patch the split with a two pack specialist resin and it seems to have done the trick.

PLEASE READ FOR INFO ON SUSPENSION FAILURE. Here we go. Last May in my 2009 C5 Exclusive my 40 amp flat fuse blew cutting all power to the suspension pump. I replaced the fuse (in a little red box next to the battery) and it worked for a couple of weeks. It blew again so I then rigged up a couple of female spade end connectors and used maxi fuses for fast change, (to change the original flat fuse meant removing the battery) protruding from the fuse box cover. I lived with this until now as no garage wanted to know about it and I refuse to pay the main stealers rates. I decided, after a very useful post on here regarding failing pump motors, to inspect the problem (I must have blown 30 fuses in a year) and sort the problem. The motor and pump got noisier in this time. Heres what happened. I depressurised the system manually, drained off the reservoir, removed it and then got to work on the pump. I undone the nipples on the pump body and got soaked in LDS fluid. CAUTION, pressure remains in the high pressure steel pipes even after lowering the vehicle with the buttons. LEXIA is needed to totally depressurise. I then removed the pump, motor and ECU. It was here I found the dreaded filth and grease/carbon etc around the brushes. I have seen this issue posted previously and it seems to be quite common. Thinking this was the problem I cleaned it all up and spun the commutator by hand to check it. This was sticking every revolution and took some turning. Not being familiar with pumps and thinking this was normal I put all the parts back on, and re-filled and re-bled the system. This, on the first raise, blew the fuse....DAMN!!!! Back to square one and realising the sticking pump wasn't normal I then stripped it all back down, and started again. This time I inspected the pump/motor etc more in depth. I read somewhere the pump and motor can be separated and this was my aim. After removing the back of the motor and then the motor body I took a good hold of the commutator and spun it...all of a sudden the pump totally freed up and started running quietly and smoothly. I still don't know what was causing the jam but quite frankly I don't care right now. I again put the parts back on and re-bled the system....or so I thought. This time the pump worked fine and quietly but the car did not raise at all. Giving up for the night I left it with a view to stripping it all again the following day.. The next morning the LDS level had dropped and looked like the system had self bled, which again I have read in here could happen. I topped up the system, added a bit more pressure, just over half a bar, hit the raise button and voila...the bloody car raised, did not pop a fuse and hasn't through about 12 cycles. Previously it took two fuses to raise it to normal ride height. So to re-cap....... The system holds pressure even when lowered manually. The grease around the brushes ISN'T always the cause of blown fuses, mine was a sticking pump. Adequate priming is needed to get the system working again, or leaving overnight. OH and LDS fluid doesnt taste very nice. I hope this info is useful to people. I had never worked on a hydraulic system before but truth be told it was't that bad. It was messy but I think that added to the satisfaction of getting it working. I highly recommend a Citroen service DVD. It's a god send and made life so much easier, as did advice on here. My only issue now is when raising the car to service height the pump keeps running until the motor starts smoking. Anyone got any advice on this issue please? Overall this isn't bothering me too much as I can now lower the car and raise it from the boot etc, I just can't get it to service height.

I have just completed this very job and unfortunately it didn't work. My commutator/ pump is going stiff half way around, this is why the fuses are blowing i believe. Anyone have any experience of this?

So. I got the motor off yesterday and true enough it was gunked up with sh*tty black deposit. I've cleaned all this up, refitted etc but it still popped a fuse and there is still a whisp of smoke coming from the body. Maybe i didn't clean it enough? I will do the job again more thoroughly. I only cleaned around the brushes. One thing I did notice was when spinning the commutator it was nice and smooth then seemed to stop unless forced around. Is this normal for a pump or should it be free spinning in the pump all the way around? Oh....And i have a hairline split in the reservoir. Any know of one for sale?

Paul.H. The best way of getting to them is by removing the battery. It gives better access to the little box they are housed in. You need to insert a flathead screwdriver into the locating hole which unclips, allowing you to remove the small box. The wires going to it are so stiff that it's difficult to get it out otherwise.

A new development on the blowing fuse front. When I last changed the fuse I watched the electric pump very closely. There was a faint whisp of smoke which tells me that is the problem. I don't think the height sensor is a problem anymore. The motor will be coming out for a clean.

Would it harm the motor greatly if i used a 50 amp fuse as a temporary measure?

Cheers Paul. The fluid level is fine and I've already had the common steering rack leak done. The article in the link sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing so when the weather improves I'll take a look at the motor. Until then I have fuses on standby. I've actually adapted the fuse box so now I have two wires on female connectors protruding from the fuse box cover ready to take a trimmed down maxi fuse. Saves the hassle of messing with tools when it does blow. Thanks for the help.

So my 2009 C5, when trying to raise it to high and service height, pops the 40 amp maxi fuse. It will rise fine from low to normal but won't go higher. This tells me the pump is okay? A diagnostic did reveal a faulty ride height sensor, could this little gadget actually cause a 40 amp fuse to pop? Any ideas people? Thanks.

Thanks paul.h. Spent some more time under it and didn't manage to get it working so it went to a towbar specialist. Even they struggled to understand how it was wired and yes, it was vehicle specific. Ended up having a relay fitted to bypass parts of the Citroen kit. What a bloody nightmare. They tell me French and Italian brands are buggers for overcomplicating things.

Citroen C5. The supply cable to the socket is 9 core. There is indeed a relay from the nearside rear light cluster. I've had the indicators working and tail lights but the remaining three wires have left me baffled.

So, I needed to replace my twin electrics. Hindsight is a wonderful thing but I cut the cable at the plug and upon exposing the wires there are actually 9 wires rather than 7, of which 4 do not match the standard type N plug wiring. Two are for a micro switch and I've found and discounted them. Can someone PLEASE tell me how the others fit? I have earth sleeve colours, purple, 2 yellows...... Surely there must be a wiring diagram out there.

The rubber boot on the back had perished and all kinds of muck had got in there. WD40 and some tapping with a pin hammer cleared it all out and it's now released. Local garage said it'll £40 to change it and configure it.....maybe they are after a quick penny. Think I might just replace it with a standard socket and turn the sensors off on the dash. Cheers for the help.

Sorted. Exactly as paul.h said. Thanks for that. One more question though...is it a straight swap when fitting a new micro switched socket or does it need some kind of configuring to the Canbus?

Top man. I had found out there may be some sort of micro switch (spring loaded pin as you put it). I'll inspect it tomorrow. Many thanks.

So, for the first time since buying the car second hand I used the towbar. Its factory fitted as it cancelled out the reverse sensors. Only problem is when it was unplugged/unhooked it has somehow left the reverse sensors disabled and the indicators are rapid flashing. It's as if it's still detecting a trailer. When I plugged the trailer back in all the indicators worked as normal. All the bulbs are fine and all the fuses associated with the lights, reverse sensors are fine. Anyone have any other ideas? I also get no rear wiper when engaging reverse, the sensor disable button on the dash is not lit and there is no audible signal when engaging reverse. Is there an extra fuse i've missed? Have I blown a flasher unit?

I was told the same thing by all dealers within about 30 miles unfortunately. Paul I had contemplated that but with such tight access without removing the subframe it's virtually impossible. Worth a try if you can get the pipe off though.

Just discovered this on my 58 Exclusiv. Leaking from either the supply or return. Although Citroen tell you the seals aren't available and try and sell you the pipes at a ridiculous cost I have the part numbers for the seals. 400636 and 400638. Downside is they come in packs of 20. Cost around £30 in all. The rest are going on eBay. Unfortunately the new seals didn't work for me. Someone mentions somewhere the aluminium pipe corroding. Having felt around the pipe that may well be the issue as the flanged seat feels very rough, just like pitted ali would. Next step....new return pipe. (Thats the larger diameter silver pipe).

There is only 60000 on it. Since found out that there is no such thing as low gas on the new style spheres. Inside the sphere are spikes that burst the diaphragm completely rather than them getting low. I am in the process of buying new drop links though so hopefully that's my issue. Cheers fellas.

This is in C5 x7 Hydro 3+ Tourer by the way.