ESL57

Quite sure if you supply 12v to pump, it will lift. I haven't done it so wait for confirmation to make sure.

If you pressure the bulb and then it goes soft, there is a venting problem. That can be many things. Blocked tank vent, Blocked external tank filter or fuel filter, faulty or blocked IP etc. You seem to have a Siemens injection system. IP will suck from tank once primed with the bulb. Whenever I had system like that,(old bosch) I used to feed the IP with a separate and clean gallon of diesel, via a tube with an inline filter. That eliminated my main fuel tank, and filter housing for trouble shooting. If electrical stuff checks good, that may be an option later.

I think 10w40 is fine on an older HDI. With over 200k miles you don't want too thin.

If they did a wet and dry compression check, they could give an indication of whether it was valves or a piston/cylinder problem?

My boost sensor had been detached due to spigot being broken on it. I made an airtight repair on it and fitted it back up. I never noticed anything untoward with it connected or disconnected. Does it only prevent over boost? What is the real purpose of it and what is it doing? No warnings on dash with it not connected ,although faults may have flagged if a reader is connected. Not sure whether to buy a new item at £40 or not? Car seems to drive ok with no issues and it hits 70mph in 3rd gear with no smoke. Can't be sure it is performing as it should as I have nothing to compare it too.

I think when the c5 x7 production started in Opel's factory in Germany, it was always going to be short term. The big players have moved away from this shape of car, along with the conventional Avensis, Passat Laguna etc. Engines seem to get stuffed under the bulkhead now to give cabin room without increasing the wheelbase.

Take the rocker cover off and have a look at valve train first.

I think the followers will have broken at least. Shame really. People say belts have been done. The reality is that belts, tensioners water pump, the lot is best done when you get the car, unless you have real knowledge( is there such a thing?) of it being done.

Maybe Coastline can chip in with a mean average of what mpg the 2.2 does? I have not owned one but AH is the first I have heard to get good mpg. I also tow a caravan and boats with the 2.0 8v. I don't have a DPF. No problematic or expensive injectors. Cheap road tax disc. If I come across an old 2.2 that has lower miles( 110k) and is better condition than this one, does same mpg as AH''s example........I will have it. Especially if it is £450, which is what I paid for my current car. Mmm.........it isn't going to happen though is it? :D

So much going on here :D You need to check fluid with the car settled on low. It should be just under the strainer at that setting. Do that first. Proper LDS fluid I take it?

Check the fusebox and all connections. A fuse may be an issue in not connecting to ECU. Also the pin configuration of your reader versus the Protocol of the system............they must be compatible. Good that you have a spares car as it could be a waste of time and money otherwise. If your heart is in the project, anything can be achieved. The flip side is when the heart rules the head, it can get expensive :D

I find the clutch pedal on my 02 HDI 8v very light, as light as I have driven. Less you have a blocked or collapsed hose in circuit? Check what type spheres you have on the car, as someone may have put wrong items on as replacements. My rears are 31 bar. Other remote possibility is that your swinging arm bearings are stiff and not giving travel. You should be able to bounce rear between 4 and 6 inches, the front a bit less. Differing opinions on comfort spheres........Like everything. Even the same cars can be different to drive, different mpg, handling, ride comfort etc. So many technical variables, then ,subjective opinion.

It is also possible that if your low pressure fuel pump was on it's way out, it has contaminated the fuel filter. In a worst case scenario, some of the brass debris from it breaking up may have got to injection pump.(Hopefully not) If nothing else works, I would change the fuel filter first.

You don't buy an old 2.2 for economy.

I would try a BSI reset first, then a switch cleaner in the stalk switch.

To get all of the oil changed, you will have to follow that procedure 2 or 3 times in as many months. Then you will have removed almost all of the old oil. The 3 litres that drains is only sump contents. The remainder is in the torque converter. Nice work on your video!

If you are not going to get all of that work done till after new year, you could change the oil meantime. It will help in cleaning things out in that gungy engine, while you are racking up miles.

Thanks Paul, that is encouraging. Citroen may have put Loctite in there as an OTT belt and braces approach. Rather than having the minutest chance of the caliper splitting, they just eliminated it altogether and gave maintenance scant regard.

Just to add to this, I have renewed the rear calipers, bolts discs and pads on my 02 plate C5. I etch primed the alloy caliper face and then 2 coats of heat proof engine enamel. The metal face was copa slipped. I painted the new bolts prior to fitting, so they should not corrode in caliper. I only put loctite on the threaded bolt section. I do get a light tap as brakes are applied, so may order extra shim. There was no loctite on previous Citroen designs( Xantia) on those bolts but the disc diameters may have been smaller. Has anyone done away with the loctite in the caliper and had issues on a C5?

Excellent news!

On the Citroen Service site: To get parts prices, click the Order menu. On the drop down list you will see a rectangular box and a tick symbol.Put the Part No in and click on the tick symbol. This gives price with vat. What it doesn't tell you is that although items are priced each, there is sometimes a minimum packet order. It could be pack of 2, 5, or 10. Lots of items are available in one of mind you.

Apart from getting your heater fixed, put a multimeter across the battery terminals when running. You should be reading 14v. Do these things first.

My car has the Mahle filter according to Citroen Service. 03 plate 2.0 hdi 8v

From reading around, it seems that all models have this lowering feature.

IMO the top fuels have the best additives in them. I think it keeps the engine/injectors cleaner. Some say it gives better mpg. I haven't done the maths but I use branded fuel and if it is a BP or Shell garage, I go for the super duper stuff.....when they have it. I never use the supermarket fuel. I don't think my HDI 8V is that fussy mind you.