ESL57

It is also an idea to remove sump and get it dishwasher clean. Much gunk lies in there too. They are sludgy engines.

Can we clarify whether those protruding tubes at the rear, can be used to support the vehicle? AFAIK they are vibration dampers and are not for that purpose? Would like to know myself, as jacking on the sill negates the space to put the axle stand on.

Can we clarify if the lowering of suspension at 70mph by BSU, applies to the hydractive 3? Or is it only the 3+ system that does this?

Try a bounce test on the sphere on that side. Compare it to the other side. Lemforder are good drop links if any are suspect.

Actually Paul, that was my next question in putting the seals on while I was there :D Thanks for going the extra mile with the detail.

Thanks Paul. Glad I asked as my procedure was wayyyy off! :D The right ram is £144 plus post from Eurocarcare and £166 from Citroen. From my experience of rebuilding slave cylinder and MC on old Land Rovers, it is always better to fit a seal kit before any leaks. Seal kits are actually service kits rather than "rebuild kits" as they will not remedy wear in a cylinder. On that premise, you may be correct on renewing the whole unit. I have all the seals anyway. It just might be that the seals are gone with no wear on bore. We will see. I have the sphere tool anyway and plenty time. I have noticed that a few people have renewed boot and seals with success. So hit and miss it is. The other advantage of a new ram is that you don't have the possible corrosion on the sphere end. Will post up on results or failure :lol:

I have a slight leak on O/S ram. It has been spilling on ground lately from jacking up etc. This was my plan on doing it. Reverse car onto wheel ramps. Set suspension on low. Remove the wire circlip pin. If I open bleed screw and free the rod end, will I be able to push the rod into cylinder enough to get new boot on? I will empty the ram contents into jar with bleed tube submerged in the fluid/ I have a new boot/gaitor and a new bottom wire clip. It looks like the narrow end of gaitor is just a tight squeeze fit over the thinner end of piston rod? Hoping that this will keep fluid in there and I may rebuild ram next year. I have all the new seals. Is there any flaws in that schedule above?

Not sure about the 10 plate autos but normally the Lexia was needed to read the temps of auto fluid before draining. I have drained the sump on a few 3litre and 3.5 litre French cars without using Lexia and just getting the fluid hot. So it would be interesting to see if Lexia really is needed on the latest ones. As usual the Auto's will be sealed for life.......or death. Every year is a good mantra for an auto box fluid change. You are dropping about 4litres each year. If you had no record of changes, and over 50k miles, I would drop the oil twice in as many months, to get more clean oil in there. Then resume, once a year.

That is about right with mine too. 30mph very slight then goes away. 02 hdi. 109 k miles. New gearbox oil.

Low profile tyres are a comfort killer. Taller profile is what you want. You can also get different pressure spheres for comfort. AEP do them. Cheapest place for Total LDS is Neilsen Wholesale. 2 litres posted last week was about 17quid all in.

Yes Paul. That had crossed my mind. I think if PO had forked out for DMF the lot, he would have made a point of mentioning the big bill. In the 3 years since he said clutch was done, it has only done 20k. May be good for a bit yet.

Thanks Paul. I just got the impression that if a new clutch had been fitted, then it may be likely that a Solid conversion would be done. It is what a lot of garages round our way were doing. I am just suspicious of the very slight tapping from bell housing on start up and the possibility of a DMF in there. Carry on I suppose. :D

I have an 02 hdi 110. On buying this car 3 months ago the PO said it had a clutch 3 yrs ago. He had no receipt so I took it with a pinch of salt. Clutch seems fine, although there are a few tiny tinkling squeaks from that area for first 5 mins of warm up, then silent. I have been in and around the area of flywheel ring gear when doing timing belt. Is there any way to tell if the DMF is still in there? Or that a SFW conversion has been done? I can see the ring gear and a little bit of flywheel with starter off, but can make no ID compared to pics of DMF'S

I have MK 1 LX Sedan (hatchback). It is the 2.0 110. on 02 plate. I looked for one for a while. I would have taken an estate but the hatch is plenty big enough. I have the seat back folded and squabs removed, always solo so no need for seats. It is for hauling tools and fishing gear and is superb for it. I tow some boats too. I wanted old one with minimum spec and technology and towbar. This one had 109k on it. I have done the essential stuff needed with just a few things left on list of musts. Once this is done it should be a pretty solid example. Great work horse and run around. Big on space and 45+ on a run. I will be keeping it....no rust and I have treated it to preserve it further. Bodyline cavity wax and underbody seal. Made by Dinitrol.