MichaelDavis

I've checked the tyres with a few different gauges both digital and old school and they both read the same. Looking at the paperwork for my wheel alignment there is no mention that front wheels are further apart than the rears so hopefully when I mention this on Friday to the garage that did the alignment it will sort out the problem.

Citroen dealers where I am are not great wouldn't let them loose on my car anyway. Tyre pressures are correct at 2.3 but I may go back to the garage that did the tracking and mention the difference in the distance between the wheels as they did not mention anything about it being different front and back - hope they've got it wrong as I'm fed up of wearing tyres out on this car. I may go back to using Michelin's as I have used them for over 20 years just as I said found them noisy compared to Goodyear's or Bridgestones.Thank you for your suggestions and I will have tracking re checked and post back with my results.

No leaks and car doesn't sink. So basically it's normal? Battery charging fine.

Thanks for the information I have a new egr valve to fit anyway as my mechanic said it's sticking/ broke. When it's changed I will let you know if this fixes the judder

Having had many makes of cars over the years I have never had one that wore tyres on the outside edge as much as this C5! I have had the tracking checked several times and have been informed it is absolutely perfect. I have Goodyear Efficient grip tyres not cheap crap, don't like Michelin's as I like to hear myself think when I'm driving not the sound of tyres! I have driven like an old granny around corners going slow and wide but the tyres still wear off badly on the outside edge. Does anyone have any recommendations how to cure this or is it another " oh that's normal they all do that"

Can anyone point me in the direction of what causes the whole engine to judder when I start it up? It also judder when I switch it off. It doesn't run on and apart from this engine is running perfect with no leaks from injectors or any dpf issues and very regular oil and filter changes at 6k miles. I have a feeling it could be a mounting but it has done this for 3 years now and my mechanic said all these hdi engines do this - I find it annoying and have been on a process of fixing things as time allows and would like to fix this issue.

Has anyone managed to find out what causes the headlights to randomly dip whilst driving? I have checked all earth's and checked tightness of battery connection, lights don't flicker when car is stood still with engine running from what I can see.

I bought that Car Mechanics magazine from Ebay and can highly recommend it - wasnt completely accurate eg wrong size torx quoted for radio removal but you get the general idea of how to remove dash, heater, take heater apart fit new flaps and put it all back together- took me 2 days taking my time including buying a few tools i didnt already have and then you need to get aircon re gassed- i didnt fit new aircon seals as existing ones looked fine just lubed them up as advised by aircon engineer and i got a perfect working aircon system again- Four tips : one - buy plastic trim removal tools from Ebay in advance -only cost a few quid and are perfect for doing this dashboard job two - have aircon de gassed day before you intend to remove dash and heater three- make sure you have some masking tape to wrap around wires and write on - much easier to put everything back in correct place as some wires do actually fit in other places though you will get some funny electrical problems if you put them in wrong place - yes i did do this by mistake but my excuse was i had just done 60hours at work that week and was a tad tired but no damage done and easily sorted. four- if your antifreeze has never been touched from factory then when you remove heater matrix catch antifreeze in a clean bowl to reuse- you cannot buy this antifreeze anywhere as its only available to the manufacturer- its golden in colour almost clear-it will save you about a tenner too- any spills you can top up with Citroen longlife antifreeze.

Very funny speak for yourself - im 47 and still looking ten years younger than most 47 year olds around tahnks to hard work no smoking and no drinking and the love of a good woman-shes a nurse and takes good care of me :-)

Today I had very little power from my engine and upon investigation found that turbo had virtually seized up. This car (Citroen C5 2007 1.6hdi),has done 105,000 miles with a full service history and for the first 80,000 miles oil changed at regular12,000 mile intervals - in the last 3 years I have had the oil changed every 6,000 - I've had new injector bolts fitted as a precaution along with new injector seals after one was starting to leak - in other words this car has been well cared for as I know from this forum what happens with these hdi engines. The good news is a new turbo fitted following manufactures instructions on fitting new turbo feed pipe and changing oil and cleaning pipes and sump and car is back to normal power - my old turbo feed pipe was still like new with no blockage whatsoever of the filter - no carbon build up in engine either. What I'm saying in a long winded way is that it's not always poor servicing or neglected oil changes that cause these turbos to fail it's also down to plain and simple age/wear and tear - the golf TDI turbos last around 110,000 - 130,000 before they fail they also are made by Garett. Nothing lasts forever no matter how well you look after it

Don't know what happened with previous post - anyway it's not easy to remove excess paint but generally so long as paint has hardened and you don't have a heavily soaked cloth and are careful you can clean it up. Another tip when touching in paint is to use a wooden cocktail stick and a magnifying glass so you can see easier what you are doing- tacking your time is also a key to success with a steady hand

I'm sure I put a post on here and it's got deleted so I will try again. Small surface scratches on modern clear coat lacquer can be removed with a buffer and polish I've done this for years- only deep scratches that go through the lacquer to the base coat cannot be polished out so you would have to use a touch up paint brush and when the paint has dried you can remove any excess with thinners - there are repair kits available to buy that include a special cloth and instructions along similar lines - I've used them and they give excellent results. Please make sure if you are touching up scratches with paint that you also put lacquer over the top - modern paints tend to be water based and wash off over time unless lacquered - never used to happen years ago but we have to protect the planet now.

I had a black car with lots of scratches and what I did was use a good quality cutting/polishing compound from a body shop with a machine polisher. This removed most scratches then went over the ones that were deep scratches with black colour magic. I found this to be the best solution but the colour magic doesn't last and you will find the scratches come back again - ideally a paint shop visit would then sort this out if you want it perfect.

No mod I know of. I've just replaced the flaps inside my heater box - took dashboard out, took heater box out then split it and put new flaps in which are strengthened from the manufacturer lubed them all up and put everything back together - all works perfect now. Took me 2 days taking my time but very rewarding.