Rookie2

Hi Buddy,yes the big nut in the middle to ease the tension. I usually put a jack under the engines and remove the top engine mount if it's really tight in there, Jack up the engine and you get a little more room (But dont jack too much) Long time since I did a c3 and my old memmory fades a lot.

Any decent diag tool will do it, there are many cheaper ones which will do some of the many tests on these vehicles but will not do all of them. Lexia is available on ebay quite cheaply now and that will do everything you will ever need on Pug/Citroen. Threre is a list on this site of people with lexia who are willing to help. Hopefully one of them may live near you.

Ok, my fault, tell me what you mean by "Drag"

Hi Julia Take a peek at this http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?75816.15 I asked about ther trees because the "SCuttle panel" of whch they speak, has water drain holes in the bottom of it which, usually get blocked by fallen leaves, pine needles etc etc. Sometime below that scuttle panel holds a large volume of water which can, at times, be heard swishing about on corners. Simply clearing debris from the drain holes cures the problem and stops the water ingress into the electrics

Hi Julia, you could check this post http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/13527-30a-window-fuse-blowing/ Water ingress is a common problem on these vehicles, can I just ask a question that you may find strange, do you park your car under any trees of bushes ? cheers

sorry for my ignorance rob, whats the ect sensor ?

Unless you have diagnostics then the only wyay is to test individually. You could use a multimeter set to ohms to look for an totally knackered abs sensor. However these hall effect sensors need a much more involved diagnostic as they could all read the same ohms yet one of them still be knackered. having said that, an obvious zero reading on ohms could/shoulld point to the obvous culprit. Unplug the sensors individually, put the tester across the pins and spin the wheel

Great news. Getting the result is all that matters and yes, no doubt the info will be handy to someone else in the future, cheers

Hi Kaz, I have scoured Autodata and their is no mention of any of the pug/cit engines having a seperate tensioner cover. Could it possibly be that someone has cut the tensioner part of the cover out themselves and fitted it retro ?

I see no reason that it would not work, however I do believe you would need lexia to initialise it, but not 100% sure. For instance the vehicle it came from may have more, or less, ancilliaries than yours, these would need to be enabled or disabled with Lexia. For instance my own C8 is a 174BHP but they also produce the same with a 140bhp etc. The engines are the same I believe it is simply the ecu that is altered to produce the power. I bought m C8 2.2 as a 125bhp, I downloaded the ecu data using a cheap tool I bought off ebay and sent the data via email to a company in Bristol. 2 hours later the data was emailed back to me which I uploaded to the car. The car is now 174BHP, has had the EGR remived from the ECU and has had the DPF filter removed from the ECU and I have physically removed it from the exhaust. No more particulate problems ever. So as you can see, it is not just a case of simply changing the ECU, ignition etc, the ecu has to be matched to the vehicle. cheers steve

Hi Kaz, what year is that car, I will look on autodata for you.

Yep, I use ebay, look for a company called J&R, they are cheapest around and will deliver next day if ordered early enough. cheers

Needs New clutch I am afraid, I realise you stated you had it done recently, but unfortunately some just do not last long,. especially if it was not a genuine part or if, as I suspect, the dual mass was not changed and the constant slip of the dual mass wears the clutch far more quickly. cheers

Hi Buddy Thwe following item should be fitted to your engine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C8-Fiat-Ulysse-Peugeot-807-Vacuum-Intake-Butterfly-Swirl-Valve-036394-/142273453965 Have alook for it on the front of the cylndet head. The cup end of the arm sticking out of the bottom of it actuates the switlvalve but breakage of it is a very common failure. Make sure the plastic arm wityh the cup is not broken, make sure the cup is attached to the ball on the swirl chamber and make sure that it operates the swirl with no interference. Without this item working you will get little or no revs from the engine. It's a few years since I did my synergie but I believe the location is something like this http://www.autoextrem.de/attachments/fiat-ulysse-fiat-scudo/52627d1161128475-anomalie-abgasreinigung-2-2-jtd-swirl-ventil02.jpg If the swirl chamber is fitted to your model and is not broken then check for vehicle vacuum leaks. If you have a vacuum leak or a defective vacuum pump, these engine will never run correctly. A hand held vacuum pump is cheap and wll worthwhile having. Take a look at your turbo and see if the waste gate actuator opens and closes correctly, make sure the small rubber vacuum pipe to the turbo is connected and not leaking.. You stated you had had the waste gate removed previously, did you mean you had the EGR removed ? cheers

Hio Buddy Personally I weld a bolt to the head of the locking wheel nuts (assuming they are not sunk in bolts) and turn the bolts out as normal. If you have someone local with a mig welder, if they are carefull it can be done with no burn dmage to the alloys, except, as I say, those wheels which have sunken bolts, they are impossible to do this way. You can also look at getting some stud extractors, they look like a normal socket set but inside they have a left hand sipral blade which digs into the wheel nu as you try to remove it, they do work if you have enough room to get them onto the wheel nuts. If you buy a decent set of drill bits you can drill them out, time consuming but it does work. Another way to try is to park the car parallel to a wall, Hammer a slightly smaller socket onto the wheel nut, fit a knuckle bar to the socket you have hammered on, put a scissor jack or bottle jack between the wall and the knuckle bar to put some weight onto the socker, then using the knuckle bar turn the wheel nut off. repeat for each wheel nut. have fun

Hi Buddy, welcome to the forum. For the wheels simply measure the distance between the bolt holes on your wheels from centre of bolt to centre of bolt, this will give you the pitch of the bolts. If you measure from the centre of a bolt to the centre of your wheel, that will give you the PCD You can then choose any wheels with the same measurements and configuration

Hi Sherbert66 There are only a handful of bolt sizes for these passenger vehicles, it could be that the C4 are the same size but check first. Do not buy wheel bolts from a scrap yard, you do not know if they have been involved in an accident and thus fractured etc. cheers

Hi Ok, was this just a one off event or is it something that is still happening ? If a one off event then I would simply monitor the situation in the belief that it was nothing more than an electrical glitch. If you know someone near you with a code reader then it would be worth getting a reading just to see if there are any codes registered cheers

The oil level light can also illuminate duw to lack of oil pressure. However, as the car was serviced only recently, the first step would be to confirm there is no oil leaking from the engine from a poorly fitted oil filter or oil drain plug etc. Are there any traces of oil on the floor beneath the car. Does the oil level dip stick still show "Full" How many miles has the car done and is there any smoke coming out of the exhaust

checkoutcharlie Hi, How long have you had the car ? I am a bit suspicious when you say that there is a hole just before the back box and water is dripping fro this. Is the hole a rust hole or is it a hole that someone has made in the exhaust pipe ? If you have not had the car for too long and the hole is a "Drilled" Hole then I would suggest the previous owner knew about the heating problem and drilled the hole before the back box to stop the obvious water drip from the tail pipe which you might have seen when buying the car. Sorry if I am wrong but it's just my suspicious mind as far as second hand cars go. Try starting the engine from cold, remove the expansion bottle cap and put a Durex over where the cap screws onto the expansion bottle. If the durex inflates then it is a sure sign that gas (from the combustion system) is getting into the cooling system.

ash601 When you say they fail, do you mean they pop out of the ball joint or are you fitting the plastic ones which easily break ? If you are breaking the plastic ones regularly then my next question would be "are there many speed humps in your area" as hitting them too hard does play havoc with the drop links. If you are popping the drop links out of their ball joints with no speed humps around, then it may be worth getting your steering geometry checked. I do have experience of a vehicle that had been damaged repaired and it turn out the front anti roll bar was slightly bent. That was putting more strain on one particular drop link and it kept failing. Just a thought to consider

Welcome/

Hi Just be aware that many garages will fit a cheap clutch (such as a National Clutch) and charge for a top quality one. Stipulate that you want a "Sachs" Clutch which is one of the better after market ones.

Rich5315 Having done a little more research, does your C8, like mine, have a duall mass flywheel (DMF). If it does then the likelihood is that your slave cylinder will be fitted inside the gearbox ( a concentric slave) which means removal of the gearbox to replace.to replace. If you are lucky enough to have a normal flywheel then it is likely your slave cylinder is on top of the gearbox.

First thing to check is the fuel tank filler cap. When you remove the filler cap after a run, do you hear it sucking in air ? If the fuel tank vent is blocked then a vacuum builds up and stops the fuel flowing to the engine. Warning, if the fuel tank vent is blocked, you can cure the problem temporarily by removing the seal on the filler cap, but you must repair the vent as the car will fail it's mot with the filler cap seal removed.