Rookie2

I'm sorry if you feel that it is some way my fault Arak. Our only intention on here is to try to help people within the confines of the information we are given. Unfortunately you did not inform us that you had a part clutch/dmf fitted with a second hand unit. I am sure had you told us that, then the other posters would also have immediately suspected the clutch at fault. Yes, perhaps with hindsight I could have stipulated that only a few seconds was needed to carry out the test but the general assumption is that a modicum of common sense is used also used by all members. The second that your vehicle failed to stall, the test was ended and no longer necessarry to rev the vehicle any further. Cheers

Do not follow the recommended belt change data. I would not let any Pug Citroen get anywhere near 70,000 before changing the belt. The scrap yards are full of engines which the owners followed the recommended guidlines for. Yes, do wait for the Turbo to cool before switching off, it's a great habit to get into on just about any turbo charged car. Oh and welcome to the forum

The test I described to do should take a matter of a few seconds at most. thats how quickly you should be able to tell if the clutch slipped or not. If you have continued the test past the first couple of seconds then it will result in the clutch/DMF burning out. Certainly within 3 seconds you should be able to stall the vehicle, if you cannot then the only other option is that it is slipping and it should be switched off. Be aware of buying second hand DMF's, yes they may have only done 5 miles from new, or it may have done 500,000 miles from new, once removed from the vehicle there is no way for the layman to tell.

But you stated that it was shortly after that event, driving home from Snowdonia, that the vibration started ? I still suspect that your DMF has started to break up and is now out of balance. You can take it to get it tested or, as I said previously, a quick test is to block the cars wheels (all 4 of them) so they cannot move, Put the handbrake on full Start the engine and put the car into 3rd gear. Rev the engine and try to pull away in that 3rd gear with the wheels blocked. The result you are looking for is that the engine will try to pull away but will stall in doing so. The result you do NOT want is that the car does not pull away, the engine does not stall, and the "Rev Counter and speedo Increase." If the vehicle stalls then we have to look elsewhere for the vibrations. if it does not stall then we can assume you have found the source of your cold start vibrations.

This is the same vehicle which. last week, was producing a stinky smell when you were reversing in Snowdonia. You stated at that time when you were driving back the steering started to vibrate. Now it appears the steering vibrates everytime the car starts until it warms up. I still suspect that the DMF is on it's way out and is causing the cold start vibrations. You can take the vehicle to a gearbox specialist and have them test the DMF output. cheers

Hi Arak For most jobs on these motors you will probably need a set of basic tools and a decent jack buddy. I'm sure members here can recommend decent quality jacks to buy. cheers steve

If you have tried all of the obvious, then why not try disconnecting the power steering belt. Just take it off and start the engine again and see if you get any vibrations. I dont know what else, if anything, your power steering belt drives, but whatever, it will take no hurt for a quick start up minus the belt to see if the problem persists. If the problem persists even with the belt connected then I would be looking at the pulleys on the engine. does the fan belt run true and without wobble over the crank pulley ? Can you see (with the engine running) a nice smooth travel of the belt around the crank pulley or do you see the belt wobbling ?. The crank pulley has a rubber shock absorber bonded into it, these can break down and cause all sorts of problems, from vibration to total collapse and destruction of the cam belt and timming. Some crank pulleys can vibrate after becoming hot and some only do it when they are cold, of course there are also many that have no problem whatsoever. You said the fluid level was at the minimum, why ? The amount of fluid lost by a healthy system is minimal, the only place it can be lost is by joint leakage and of course the smear left on the chrome of the steering rack as it goes in and out. So check your pipework and also the gaitors on the streering rack for signs of leakage, if you have been running on low oil for some time, it could be that your pump has already had it in a cold state and needs to warm up before operating correctly.

When topping up the power steering fluid, remember to move the steering fully right and then left a couple of times to distribute the fluid throughout the system and chase air out.

Hi Nigel Ive got a C8 2.2, haven't done the starter on it but I have spent about 3 lifetimes changing turbo's in the same area. (I am assuming your starter is up the back of the engine) I dont kow what access you have got (Jacks etc), personally I am lucky enough to a have a complete workshop with lift etc. If you are going up the back of the engine I would recommend pulling the drive shafts out to gain access. (Drain the gearbox level down a little first.) I do know that if you are hunting around and pushing cables/pipes etc out of the way to access the starter motor bolts. you can cause all sorts of unwanted electrical problems. Rather than forcing things out of the way to get at bolts, it is far better to take the time and disconnect those pipes/cables etc which may have to be moved. (im thinking about above the bell housing here). Thes cars absolutely hate to be disturbed by force, so my advice is treat it gently and take your time, create as much space and elbow room as possible and make sure you disconnect the battery in the correct fashion before beginning. cheers

If you are fitting leds into these vehicles then the led's have to be CAN corrected. cheers

Is there a link between a possible faulty DMF and vibration ? worth looking into given that you are getting a smell when reversing

Hi Dazo On my C8 I had the same fuse blowing, when I got the car on the ramp I noticed the arm on my self levelling sensor had popped off the ball cup. May be worth taking a look at yours, it is located below and slightly n front of the steering rack on the drivers side just to the rear of the crank pulley. The switch is used for levelling the headlights and the switch arm was fully up, after snapping the ball and cup back into place, no further problems. It may not solve your problem but must be worth a quick look Cheers

rednose66 If your exhaust is the split flange type with the Cat in the front and the DPF behind it, then as Paul states, jet washing is by far the best way to clean them. When finished it help to put the dpf into a very warm oven for a couple of hours to dry out otherwise the water still in there gives the "DPF Blocked" warning.

Here in Cornwall we have a glut of Speed Humps, drop links are a very common problem down here, especially when people fit the now common plastic ones which flex and ping off.

The only thing the image does not show is the recycled air collected from the rocker cover and piped into the fresh air flow. If you have compression in your engine block caused by poor valves or piston rings etc, then that will pressure the crank case and send oil though the breather pipe into the turbo. As well as the seals possibly leaking on the Turbo itself which lets the oil leak past the fan blades into the air stream. If you imagine the fan of the turbo spinning up at 20,000 rpm, nice and hot and then drops of oil suddenly start hitting the fan blades, then you can imagine that wear will take place, then damage and imbalance, Which will be magnified if the oil is not changed often and is contaminated with carbon/dirt etc. I still have the original turbo off my C8 so will take some photo's and post them tomorrow showing the blade damage caused by oil, then particles from the bearings as they broke up and then particles from the turbo body as the turbine ran after the bearings had gone. I am just trying to emphasise how something as innocent looking as oil on the fan blade is a precursor to a completely blown and expensive turbo problem.

Sorry, my badly worded sentence above. This photo probably shows it better than I can describe it http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/intercooler2.jpg

You could be correct Paul, however, if doing this test proves to be the end for the clutch then I think it is safe to say the car will not make it home anyway. The test only replicates trying to drive up a steep hill with a few passengers in the car. Personally, if I had a long journey to make, I would rather know before I set off if I am going to make it then for it to happen at 2am on some lonely country road. However, as you say, the choice is Araks

Arak81 You can test your clutch. Block the front wheels, put the car into 3rd gear, rev the engine, leave the handbrake on and try to pull away. The car engine should stall. If instead you see the rev counter climbing and the car does not stall then it is true to say the clutch is kaput

Hi You have engine oil at both ends of your turbo. This oil has to be entering there from somewhere. All that is supposed top be travelling through there is "Air". The oil is coming from somewhere and the most obvious and usual place is the Oil Seals in the Turbo. Yes your turbo will probably be working OK. The oil travelling through it however will be affecting the DPF. As I said, this could go on for a very very long time or it could go within the next half hour. The oil you can see on the inlet side of the Turbo (Picture 1), is coming from the outlet side of the turbo and is travelling through the intercooler system and back through the Turbo. Your turbo seals have gone. The o9nly other point of entry for oil is the rocker cover breather pipe as it enters the air intake pipe. If for any reason your engine is not breathing correctly, either through blockage or valve wear etc, then oil will be pushed through the breather pipe into the air induction pipeworkhttp://www.hyperchips.co.uk/images/hdi-engine.png The small white pipe coming out of the rocker cover to the right and slightly below "HDI 16"

I've had this before (he said with embarrassment) :wub: Take the bolt back out and locate the ball joint pin further into the hole. You will probably find that the pin of the ball point has is not fully located and the bolt has slid though above the taper of the pin nstead of below it. Take the bolt out, get under neath with a hammer and tap the ball joint up until you see the top of the taper sitting just above the hole of the hub.

Unfortunately it looks like your turbo seals have gone. I suspect it will get worse as time goes on and unfortunately there is no repair possible, only eventual replacement. How long will they last ?, no one knows, it could be 2 days or 2 years. You have oil being put into the pressurised air from the exhaust side of the turbo and being fed through the intercooler into the intake side of the turbo. This oil will also be affecting the dpf

arak81 You first need to establish what is causing the smoke. If it is oil, then you need to establish how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber. When the engine is cold (and switched off), take the air inlet pipe to the turbo off. Look inside the pipe, is it coated in oil ? Look inside the turbo, are the turbo vanes coated in oil? Do the vanes look damaged as if something has passed through the turbo ? Get hold of the Turbo cartridge with your fingers and see if you get any movement, slight in and out movement is OK, side to side movement indicates a problem. Take the hoses off the intercooler and check to see if the intercooler has oil in it ? As Paul H has already said, it is a case of being methodical and working your way through the obvious things until you come to what can only be the problem. You have either smoke or steam emanating from your exhaust. If you are not losing coolant then it must be oil If it is oil then you must establish how and where the oil is entering the combustion system. Some times a problem can seem daunting but just start with simple basics and you will find the problem. Let us know where you find oil within the air induction system and we'll help you from there cheers

Hi Might be worth having a read of this first. https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30048

I don't know the technical in's and out's of it, but I do know that if I charge a battery up and leave it on the cold concrete floor of my workshop, it goes flat very quickly. For that reason, when i remove a battery from a vehicle, I always put something as an insulator between the steel of the battery tray and the battery itself. Renault cars are delivered with an insulating sleeve that fits around the battery and some cars actually have a padded jacket around the battery. Because Citroen's are so sensitive to a drop in battery voltage (and all the problems that can have on the hyper sensitive ecu's) I think it is sensible to keep that battery wrapped up, especially in winter. Just a thought.

Hi jonnie Just a thought, . The games console "Xbox" suffers from a fault called "The red ring of death" The problem is caused by dry and cracked solder joints on the circuit board. I have. in my time, fixed about half a dozen of these xbox using instructions I found on line. The repair simply involves removing the circuit board from the xbox, getting a powerful hair dryer or heat gun and heating the board uniformly until you see dull looking soldered joints turn bright and silvery. You then leave the board untouched for a few minutes to dry Sounds a bit strange but believe me, it really works and it has the effect of reheating every joint and re-soldering.= it may be worth a try on your ecu but careful not to overheat it, just watch for what appear to be "Dull" joints turning bright and silvery.