Rookie2

Hi Col hf I am sure Paul H will be along soon, he knows his way around the C4 and will no doubt be able to help/

Hi Buddy, not as bad as you might imagine (I hope) Your clutch is operated by a hydraulic slave cylinder. The sytem is prone to failure and you probably require a new slave cylinder and possibly the master cylinder which the pedal presses. Here are the parts you will probably need.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOLK-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-fits-Citroen-Xsara-1-4i-2-0-16V-2-0i-16V-1-9-D-/191961376803?fits=Model%3AC8%7CCars+Type%3A2.2&hash=item2cb1ca2823:g:3h4AAOSwOdpXytY1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRW-Master-Cylinderclutch-for-FIAT-SCUDO-PEUGEOT-EXPERT-CITROEN-JUMPY-C8-PND220-/291578767843?fits=Model%3AC8%7CCars+Type%3A2.2&hash=item43e372e9e3:g:ENYAAOSwPc9WyfxU Either one or both of them have become defective, not a hard job to do but sometimes can a be apain to bleed the air out.

Steering wheel shakes ? I would suspect a warped brake disc, Brake discs fior these vehicles are not expensive If brake pads are not new then consider buying discs and pads, they can be purchase as a kit but do not buy the cheapest you can find, they are generally not the best quality and, when talking about brakes, are generally not the safest. cheers

Hi Buddy. if you are talking about ther bottom ball joint (the one on the end of the wishbone), you need to remove the bolt and nut and either tap the bottom of the ball joint upwards or put a small scissor jack under the bottom ball jojnt and raise it slightly. The tapered shaft of your ball joint has not gone far enough up into the wheel hub, your bolt is sitting across the top of the tapered shaft instead of going through the "Waist"" of the tapered shaft., In short, shove the ball joint taper further up into the hub hole it goes into

Hi Millie Sorry about that, I got the link wrong

Was this feature definitely an option asked for on your car ? It could be that your particular car does not have that function. The handbooks for the cars have to cover all options for all specs of a model, but doesn't mean that your vehicle actually has that function. cheers

I have aC8 but couldn't tell you where the alarm is actually located as I have never looked. I do know they are nnot located in an easuly accessible place. Not too long ago I had to stop the alarm on a VW Passat diesel 2004, the alarm on that was under the windscreen wiper scuttle panel

Hi Buddy First of all, do you know if your radiator is blocked ? To check, do this carefully, drive the car until it registers as warm as you say you can get it. When the pipes to and from the radiator are hot, switch off the engine and feel the surface of the radiator with your hand (Carefully). Dont go burning yourself but the radiator should be warm over it;s whole surface area. If for instance the radiator is cold in the middle but warm at the top and possibly the bottom, it would indicate the radiator is blocked. If the radiator is uniformly warm, then we need to look at something else. Behind the engine you should see twi rubber pipes about 25mm wide side by side going through the bulk head and into the cabin of the car. We need to know if those rubber pipes are also warm when the engine is hot. Those two pipes feed a small radiator inside the car itself which, when your internal blower is switched on, blows heat into the car interiror. It could be that the interior radiator is blocked or even possibly disconnected by the previous owner or, your "Hot/Cold" selector switch is not working Let me know how you get on buddy

Hi One of these should find it for you https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi_6eyPguHSAhVLCcAKHSBNDkIQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aussiefrogs.com%2Fforum%2Fcitro%25EBn-forum%2F115658-ds3-c3-running-temperature-overheating.html&psig=AFQjCNFYVxAvdFxYUg8K28TceWkAyx0qoQ&ust=1489959583719653

Hi Buddy If you are getting a "Bong" when you connect the battery then I suspect you have something switched on or a door open etc. If you can, try putting the battery in with the drivers door closed, I know it's a bit cramped that way but it might just make the difference. My C8 connects without the Bong even with the drivers door open but yours may be different.

Hi Steelseries. First of all - looking at the photo of the strut top, you should not drive that car for the present time. It looks to me like the "Strut Top Bearing" has gone. - if you get hold of the front spring from inside the wheel arch area, see if you can pul and push the spring horizontally in and out. You should not see any lateral mopvement on the strut top (Photo). If you do then it means the stut top bearing has gone, or, your mobile mechanic has bodged putting it back together. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Citroen-C2-C3-inc-Picasso-Front-Suspension-Top-Strut-Mount-Bearing-03-On-/122281362030?hash=item1c7889826e:g:UOIAAOSw6DtYXO5d The other photos you show are of the "Drop Links" - You need to loosen the nuts on the ends of the drop links, dont worry, nothing will fly out or go bang, rhe drop links are under slight pressure from the Torsion bar, but you should be strong enough to overcome that pressure yourself. So loosen the nut then put a Allen Key into the end of the bolt. Turn the bolt until the rubber untwists and lies straight. Then replace the nuts using the allen key to hold the bolt straight whilst your spanner tightens the nut. Repeat that on the other drop links which need to have the rubbers straightened. Thirdly !!!!!!!! Do not use that mobile mechanic again, he is a danger to you and everybody else on the road. drop me a line if you are having trouble trying to understand, it's an easy job to do just really difficult to explain. cheers

Hi Stiff Welcome to the forum. I cannot say that I have ever come across this before on a modern car. There are so many controls and computers on modern cars you would think at least one of them would register ab fault. It kinda makes you think the problem is in the very thing that is supposed to register the faults = the ECU.

Not a problem, thats what we are here for, happy to help cheers

What are you getting when you try to jump start it ? Nothing at all/ a click click/ turns over slow etc etc ?

Should be a similar procedure to this......................

Hi Jadblobs Here is a quick write up about MAF's, I know they are refering to BMW but much of it is pertinent to all diesels. Also when they mention that an out of spec MAF will produce little more than a rich running engine, just remember that on Citroen cars we have Particulate Filters that control the ECU from information they pick up about fuel ratio's, so though a rich mixture may not matter for some manufacturers, it certainly does for Pug Citro who's DPF is designed to negate rich fuel mixtures. Anyway, here's the write up for BMW................. If your BMW engined vehicle suffers from poor performance from below 1800-2200rpm it is most likely due to an out of spec maf sensor. This can happen from as low as 30k miles.http://synergytuning.co.uk/75Zt/maf3b.jpg The MAF sensor is fitted in the inlet duct on the outlet of the air filter and measures the mass of air flowing into the engine. In theory, therefore, the ecu can inject the correct amount of fuel for the amount air going in and thereby meet the latest emission regulations. Its located on the duct just behind and to the right of the oil filler cap. The connector is obscured by the overlapping top of the air filter housing lid. (more maf sensor info here) In practice, the Bosch sensor is notoriously unreliable and drifts out of spec as it ages. This is understandable, since the sensor element operates at 200oC and semiconductors deteriorate at these temperatures, even though Bosch seem to have overlooked this fact! http://synergytuning.co.uk/75Zt/2maf.jpg The result is that the ecu most commonly receives a reduced signal, and because it cannot know if the signal is reduced from say a clogged air filter, it must assume it is correct. MAF sensor degradation NEVER shows up on standard diagnostic tests this means your dealer will NOT SPOT IT! (dealers rely too heavily on fault code readers) (Complete Maf failure - where it is short or open circuit will show up and will also light the engine management light on the dash.) The maf sensor has most impact below 2500rpm. In the 1000-1700rpm range, where the turbo is not generating much boost pressure so there isn't a surplus of air, it is difficult to meet emission regulations without accurately metering the air flow so the maf signal can have a very pronounced effect on the performance. Above about 1800rpm, the turbo starts to become effective and above 2500rpm there is often a surplus of air and so the ecu does not need to rely upon the maf signal quite as much. It can simply be programmed to limit the maximum amount of fuel to control the torque. So if the maf signal has fallen due to a degraded sensor, the first and most obvious sign is very sluggish acceleration when pulling away from rest. This heart stopping delay pulling onto roundabouts and into heavy traffic is downright dangerous. It also makes the car tedious and unpleasant to drive at speeds below 2000rpm because the fairly sudden fall off of torque requires more gear changing. Auto models are just as bad, needing a lot of throttle to get moving or change down, and some even stalling when you pull away, with overall sluggish gearbox operation and even worse mpg as a side effect. You will also often find that maximum torque occurs at much higher rpm than intended. Possibly not until 2500rpm, whereas on the 75 & ZT it should be around 2000rpm, and on the Freelander, around 1750rpm (thanks to its variable nozzle turbo). In about 25% of cases, the signal becomes elevated above normal and this will overfuel the engine at low rpm. Because this doesn't result in poor performance, it is all too easy to assume the maf is working okay. Very poor mpg, exhaust smoke, exhaust reeking of diesel when idling are tell tales of an overfuelling maf. For the same reason, correcting the excessive signal & hence the overfuelling may reduce the performance so some owners moan when this happens. Its their choice to stick with the existing maf and drive a thirsty smoking, mot failing diesel, or do someting about it. The Synergy 2a cannot reduce the signal so an overfuelling maf must be replaced with our Pierbugh one. So to sum up, the maf signal must be correct for optimum performance AND economy. You can't just stick in any old maf, a cheap Ebay clone or ones sold for BMW cars and expect to get a good result. Also, no tuning product - box, chip or remap will work properly if your maf sensor is out of spec, so if you are disappointed, after having spent £100s on such a product, look to your maf sensor. You can get a good idea if the maf is the problem by simply disconnecting it and going for a drive. The performance will be much better if the maf is out of spec. However this is not a 100% reliable test because an out of spec fuel rail sensor can also produce weak maf like symptoms. The TD4 suffers more from this due to water ingress into the wiring and sensor. Disconnecting the maf also disables the egr system so some of the improvement is due to this, though only at a constant speed. (When accelerating the egr system is switched off) Many owners have sold their pride & joy because they were sick of the poor performance when a Synergy (Ronbox) 2 will cure the problem and boost performance to uptodate levels. FREE TIP: Save yourself a fortune and sort a maf problem out yourself. I hear regularly from owners who have been charged upto £2000 by incompetent garages who could not diagnose a weak maf and replaced just about everything else!!! NB: DO NOT FIT PIERBURGH MAF 7.22684 09.0 with or without a Synergy (Ronbox) 2 as this ONLY for BMW vehicles. I also do not recommend the 7.22684.11.0 maf now produced as a direct Bosch alternative as the results are still not as good.

Hi Jadblobs, I dont know who told you the MAF dont do much on a diesel, because they are wrong.

No probs, have fun.

Not come across your problem before but you could try the following.......... Remove both leads from the car battery. Touch the red positive lead and the black negative lead together for about 30 seconds. Then re connect the leads to the battery Remember !!!!! you are touching the battery leads (The wires to the battery) together and NOT the battery terminals.!!!!!!!!!!!!! This has the effect of dumping the ecu's temporary throw away memmory which may or may not help your problem. The only problem I have know this action to cause is to lose the radio code on older models. cheers

Hi Shane Is this any good to you ? https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=50550

Hi Abbie I think your question may have to wait for that certain person to come along who has done exactly what you are requesting. I dont suppose for one minute it is the type of information that would bementioned in any official literature, so here's hoping one of our kind members has done exactly what you are requesting. Fingers Crossed

Thanks for posting the tip GazH. perhaps when one of the moderators see it they will place the post into a suitable location for future reference.

Remembering back to when I had the AL4 auto box, there was a simple method to set the driver adaptive to default but for the life of me I cannot remember how I did it.. It has to be failry simple otherwise when someone sells a car, the new owner, who drives differently to the original owner, would not have a very enjoyable drive. The adaptive system gets used to how hard you accelerate and brake, how often you use kickdown etc.

Hi Buddy TRW pads, part number GDB1690 - cost here is 41.05 +vat. warning, there are 2 variations but my supplier only lists one cheers

The citroen auto boxes are driver adaptive, they recognise how you drive and adapt to your style. Was the driver adaptation reset when the gearbox was changed ? If not, then it could be that the gearbox is adapting to a set of parameters that existed on the old gearbox which do not exist on the new. Remembering back to the old citroen al4 auto's I am sure they had a procedure to clear the adaptive memmory.