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Posted (edited)

I just had a lot of welding done on my van, so I am now thinking about repairing / replacing the oil seal on my gear box.

The one where the end of the drive shaft goes into the side of the gearbox on the passenger side.

(It’s leaking gearbox oil from there) which I think is why my gears crunch when changing gears.

(I am going to do it myself as the welding costs got out of control,

I used to do all my own repairs but as you do I got lazy but now I don't have a choice)

Does anyone know of any where I can read up on what I need to do or any videos showing the process and what tools I will need?

I have a basic idea of how it should work but would just like to read or watch something just to make sure I don't bodge it up.

Also how long it should take to do?

It’s a Relay 2000 X reg 1.9D manual.

Thank you in advance for any help offered.

Edited by vinnythepainter
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If it's the passenger side, at least you won't have an intermediate bearing in the way.   Your first difficulty may be in undoing the driveshaft bolt.   You'll need a good socket and lots of leverage.   If you have a Haynes book for almost any Puegeot or Citroen you'll find a run down for the job there.   Also this video may help.............

Posted

Thanks for posting the video:

That’s the way I was going to go but I wanted to check that I was right.

I’ll let you know how it goes;

I’ll have to get my younger brother to do most of the heavy work.

I broke my arm in two places, well I broke my arm up near the shoulder & broke my wrist just before xmas.

So I still don’t have full strength in it yet,

he’s 40 and at that age where he wants to start learning hahahahha.

Kids eh? lol

Once again thanks.

Posted

hang on hang on hang on stop your giving yourself extra work. Undo the track rod from the hub then the 4 bolts holding the ball joint then prize inner cv joint slack from the box then just pull the whole leg towards you and the cv joint will clear the box and you can do the seal.but  The crunching is due to the syncromesh in the box. water gets into the box were the selecter rod goes thru the casing and wrecks the oil.you can buy the syncro seperate but there not cheap and a pain to fit. you might want to consider another box

Posted

Ok thanks for the info, I'll look into doing it the way you said.

With regard to changing the box, it's all down to cost

(so I might have to put up with the crunching)

I can drive it alright with a crunch now and then but if my brother uses it he seems to do a lot more crunching than I do.

Maybe I should charge him for each crunch, that might stop him.

hahahahaa

Thanks again for any advice offered.

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