Relay 3.0Hdi 160Ps Alternator Belt.

[pikesrelaybus]

Hi Folks,

Alternator tensioner gave up, all that's left is the bearing, less a few balls. New tensioner ordered and while it's apart, new belts. The inner belt is thicker than the outer belt that tuns the Air-Con pump. So, I removed the lower plastic cover and the small cover inside the wheel arch. There's not much room but I managed to undo the retaining bolt and with some persuasion remove the broken tensioner. Belt fitting is easy as there's not many pulley's. I have two interesting points, I probably did it all wrong. The inner (alternator & water pump) belt has a tensioner, mine, as I said, has failed. You can only get this belt off by removing the outer belt (air-con) but there's no tensioner, only an Idle pulley which has a flat surface running on the rear of the belt. I undid this idle pully to get the outer belt off. Getting the new belt on was tricky and in the end I made a loop of lawnmower start-cord and usng lumpy screwdriver, pull downwards on the idle wheel and gentle manipulated it back onto it's little hub before doing the bolt up quick. There's a small grove on this plastic part, its done 70k miles. Anyone know of a faster/correct method. Citroen have told me that there's some kind of tensioner on the crack pulley but all I see is a kind of rubber sandwich making up the pulley. Where's the tensioner?. Is it centrifugal? Citroen even said, never run the engine without this belt on, I assume becuase the pulley will get bigger? Not that I can see it but is there a release mechanism?

 

Anyway, it's a fairly easy job, not quite sure how I'm going to get the release bolt out of the tensioner, I guess by taking up the tension with a wrench, pull the pin and then relax it onto the new belt gentle. Fingers crossed it all works, not having alternator for 3.5 hours on a rainy night isn't fun, I'm lucky the engine didn't boil too..

 

thanks for any responses..

[paul.h]

If I have got the right engine, it looks as if the crankshaft pulley inner and outer have to be squeezed together using a special clamp to allow the elastic belt to be fitted and then the pulley rotated to wind the belt on. The inner/outer should be parallel or the belt may not be fitted correctly and then only last a few kilometers. here is the procedure without any diagrams since these do not copy:-

 

2. Removing

Remove :

• The front right headlamp
• The sound insulation under the engine
• The front right wheel

2.1. Vehicle without air conditioning

CAUTION : Note the direction of fitting of the alternator and coolant pump belt if being re-used.

Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (1) (at "a") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z] wrench, [0191-2T] socket.

Peg (at "b") - this looks to be behind the top engine mounting; Using tool [0188-Q1] 4mm diameter pin.

Remove : The alternator and coolant pump belt.

CAUTION : Check that the dynamic roller tensioner (1) turns freely (no clearance or points of resistance).

 

2.2. Vehicle with air conditioning

2.2.1 - Flexible ancillary drive belt .

CAUTION : Before removing, and for any re-use of the elastic auxiliary drive belt once removed, it is compulsory for the engine to be at ambient temperature (Below 30 °C) ; In all other cases, replace the elastic auxiliary drive belt with a new elastic belt.

N.B. : Removal while the engine is warm results in irreversible and invisible damage to the elastic auxiliary drive belt.

CAUTION : Note the direction of rotation of the elastic auxiliary drive belt if being re-used (Before removal).

CAUTION : If it is to be replaced, cut the elastic auxiliary drive belt and remove it.

 

Place the engine in a sling ; Using a workshop crane.

Remove :

• The top engine mounting nuts and bolts

Lower the engine.

Position tool [0191-AA] Elastic auxiliary drive belt removal tool (clamp) on the accessories drive pulley (5).

Turn the accessories drive pulley (5) (In the normal direction of rotation).

Remove the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).

CAUTION : Check that the roller (6) turns freely (no play or tight spot).

 

2.2.2 - Water pump and alternator belt.

 

CAUTION : Note the direction of fitting of the alternator and coolant pump belt if being re-used.

Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (8) (at "c") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T].

 

Peg (at "d") ; Using tool [0188-Q1]. Again looks to be behind the top engine mounting.

Remove : The alternator and coolant pump belt.

CAUTION : Check that the dynamic roller tensioner (8) turns freely (no clearance or points of resistance).

 

3. Refitting

3.1. Vehicle without air conditioning

 

Refit : The alternator and coolant pump belt.

CAUTION : Check that the alternator and coolant pump belt is correctly positioned in the grooves of the various pulleys.

Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (1) (at "a") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T].

Remove the tool [0188-Q1].

 

3.2. Vehicle with air conditioning

3.2.1 - Water pump and alternator belt.

 

Refit : The alternator and coolant pump belt.

CAUTION : Check that the alternator and coolant pump belt is correctly positioned in the grooves of the various pulleys.

Compress the dynamic roller tensioner (8) (at "c") (anti clockwise) ; Using the tools [0188-Z], [0191-2T].

Remove the tool [0188-Q1].

3.2.2 - Flexible ancillary drive belt (7).

Position the tool [0191-AB] Elastic auxiliary drive belt fitting tool (special clamp) on the auxiliary drive pulley (5).

 

 

"A" : Correct fitting - parallel inner/outer of pulley.

"B" : Incorrect fitting - not parallel.

Tighten the tool wing nut ("e") observing the parallelism between the faces of the 2 components of the tool [0191-AB].

Tighten the tool bolt "f" to cancel out the twisting effect of the tool [0191-AB] when fitting the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).

N.B. : Failure to have the faces parallel will result in an incorrect positioning of the elastic auxiliary drive belt (7) in the "Vs" of the auxiliary drive pulley (5) for crankshaft, alternator pulley or air conditioning compressor pulley. Damage to the elastic auxiliary drive belt (7) results in its inevitable destruction after only a few kilometres.

 

 

Refit the flexible ancillary drive belt (7).

Turn the accessories drive pulley (5) anticlockwise until the accessories drive belt (7) is fully fitted onto the pulley (5) of the crankshaft and until tool [0191-AB.] has been released.

3.3. Refitting (continued)

Refit the engine mounting and tighten its bolts

Refit :

• The front right headlamp
• The sound insulation under the engine
• The front right wheel

[pikesrelaybus]

Thanks for the info. Should have said it's a Iveco engine, it's 2008 relay 3.. Not sure what effect removing the front headlamp does, maybe alignment?. I know pictures paint a thousand words but without I'm still a bit lost. I get the alternator belt, acknowledge there's lots of special tools, I recognise the use of a tool to take up tension before removing the pin. Get all that. Maybe I need to have a jolly good look at this crackcase pulley. It just looks so simple, one large nut, a inner and outer sandwiching a thin ring of rubber, I assume some kind of shock absorbing sandwich. This crank pulley is a double, obviously for the two belts. I can't see anything that could expand to take up slack on the outer belt, unless one component moves. ok, let me re-ask the question, is there only the one tensioner on this engine?

but, thanks for the quick info.. Tensioner should arrive tomorrow and somehow I'm managed to get the new belts fitted.

[paul.h]

A tensioner is not shown on the air con drive belt, probably it relies on being elastic to keep it under tension. Looking at those crank pulley clamps again, it looks as if the first is to lever off the belt as the crank pulley is rotated and the other is to stop the belt slipping off the pulley as it is rotated to wind the belt on. The first is a bit like a wedge that goes under the belt with the thick part on the engine block side. So I now do not think the clamps squeeze the pulley inner and outer together to squash the rubber insert. Maybe a screwdriver held between the belt and pulley as it is turned could achieve the same effects.

[pikesrelaybus]

Thanks for your help Paul.h. Its back together now. With all belts removed and the tensioner not fitted this is how I worked it all out. The inner (thicker) belt that drives the water pump and alternator goes on first. The tensioner is easier fitted upside down with the pulley upwards. This allows a index finger and thumb to start the bolt into it's thread. With a couple of turns the tensioner can be rotated and the peg located and engaged into it's recess. The peg stops the tentioner totating. Do the bolt up as much as you can as my torx bit + holder + ratchet won't fit onto the bolt with the bodywork in the way. Do it all up and then put the belt into the correct location. It's fairly easy to know the route once you've had a look. With the tensioner in place it's time to pull it's pin, using a ring spanner on the nut of the pulley, take up the tension. There's no way to get the pin out unless you use a loop of string wrapped around a screwdriver. You can then twist and manipulate this noose to pull out the pin while taking the strain on the spanner. Relay gentle and the tension then rests against the belt. Inner belt done. Fitting the outer (thinner) belt is somewhat easier. I didn't turn anything or use excessive force doing this procedure. If you remove the idle pulley the belt goes on a treat. The idle pulley, just right of the crank is held in place with a single bolt. Obviously it's somewhat difficult to move this pulley in place with the belt on it. I didn't like the thought of trying to bully the belt on using screw drivers and rotation method so i used my now trusty loop of lawnmower start cord and placed it over the top of this pulley, using a pry bar to pull it downwards. It doesn't need too much force to persuade the bolt to engage into it's thread but you need more fettling of the pry / cord to get the pulley to sit on it's locating mount. When you look at it you see what I mean. This provided a spread of pressure on the plastic pulley as opposed to locating pressure, such as a screwdriver would have done to one spot, probably breaking the plastic pulley. Anyway, all quiet again, hope this helps someone. To be fair to my bus, this grumbling bearing has been moaning for 20-25k miles. Citroen told me to ignore it and call the AA if it broke, thanks citroen..!

[paul.h]

Thankyou for getting back, you made it not sound too bad in the end. I did think the Citroen method requiring the engine to be turned over would not be easy, a petrol engine is hard enough, never mind a 3 litre diesel.