Gutless, Smoking, Turbo Whistling

[dave crew]

Hi all,

My C8 has developed a new problem. For a couple of weeks it has been playing up- losing power at low revs/idling, hopping, intermittent black smoke. But running just fine at speed in the higher gears.

Today whilst driving there was a loud pop, and the car immediately became gutless (especially on hills), belching black smoke, and the turbo is whistling like hell when the accelerator is pushed.

Any suggested prognosis??

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

Ps. Historically the engine has been replaced due to cam belt snapping, and the DPF has been removed although the ecu mapping may have been borked cos I still get the 'Diesel Additive' warning message.

 

 

[paul.h]

Egr valve problems can give black smoke, especially once the engine is warm since until then the egr valve should not be working. Have a look at this C5 egr problem http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20999-c5-hdi-irratic-loss-of-power-when-engine-hot/

 

Before replacing the egr valve check its electrical connector or hose connection to the actuator in case this is at fault such as a poor connection or pin hole. Also check the inlet air pipes/ducting to the engine in case it is leaking or loose and any electrical and hose connections to any actuators.

 

A blocked fuel filter can also give loss of power.

 

There is a topic on dpfs on the General section - the MOT has just been changed to include a check for the dpf (and catalyst) and if they are missing the car will fail the MOT. If the casing is still in place though it may fool the tester in to thinking it is still there. To remove the diesel additive message, it will probably need to be plugged in to a Lexia to reset the additive counter, even if you have put some additive in.

[dave crew]

Cheers Paul,

Where is the EGR located? 

[paul.h]

Which engine, model year and bhp is it ?

[dave crew]

It's a 2004 2.0 litre C8 LX HDI 16V

[paul.h]

Is it 110 or 138 bhp ?

[dave crew]

Sorry Paul, it's 110bhp.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[paul.h]

The egr valve is located at the back of the cylinder head (part no. 1628 XP). There is a picture of one here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-EGR-Valve-Peugeot-807-Citroen-C8-2-0-2-2-Hdi-1628XP-/141028383493

On the eurocarparts site under engine management switches it is shown as a Pierburg egr valve and is £119. However, it may just need a good clean or a vacuum pipe fixing, if it is the cause of the problems.

It has a dome vacuum actuator on top and a water cooled pipe fastened to it. Citroen's procedures are to remove it from under the engine as follows and takes about 3 hours to replace, (but this is the same time listed as for the 138 bhp engine which has an electrical actuator and many more parts to be removed and the coolant to be drained - so could take a lot less):

 

1. Removing

N.B. : The EGR valve is removed from underneath the vehicle.

 

 

Remove :

• The screen under the drive train
• The 2 nuts holding the egr valve on
• The collar connecting it to the water cooled pipe heat exchanger
• The nut below the water cooled pipe holding it to the engine block
• Uncouple the vacuum pipe to the top of the dome.

Move aside the heat exchanger, without opening the cooling circuit.

Remove the EGR valve.

 

2. Refitting

Always replace :

• The seal of the EGR valve
• The nut holding the water cooled pipe to the block

Proceed in the reverse order to removal.

Tighten :

• The studs : to 6 Nm
• The 2 egr nuts : to 10 Nm
• The collar : to 15 Nm
• The pipe nut : to 30 Nm

 

[dave crew]

Excellent thank you Paul, I'll let you know how I get on

[dave crew]

Against my instruction, the mechanic blanked off the EGR.

The car is still losing power at low revs/idling, hopping, black smoking.

 

My patience is running thin

[dave crew]

Update:

Had the EGR un-blanked, took the vehicle to local main Citroen shop.

They diagnosed, and subsequently repaired, the problem - Swirl Flap!

 

She's been running perfectly for weeks since.

 

Let's hope this is the end of my C8 woes.

 

:)