How To Replace Rear Wheel Bearing On C5 Tourer 1.6Hdi 59 Plate.

[tymbouk]

Hi folks can anyone give me input on this.

[tymbouk]

Lol wheel bearing.

[paul.h]

Welcome to the forum.

 

The rear wheel bearing is part of the rear hub so both are replaced as one including the hub nut, the hub cap/cover and the abs radial target which should be part of the hub - check this when buying. The hub/bearing/nut/cap/radial target come together as Citroen part no. 374887 (and the radial target 454919 which should be part of the hub) but these should be checked using your VIN. You may also want to replace the brake discs/pads at the same time since these will need removing.

 

So to replace it the procedure is:

- jack up, use an axle stand and remove rear wheel.

- remove the brake caliper bolts and hang the caliper to one side (no need to disconnect the brake pipes/hoses from the caliper), remove the brake pads and remove the caliper support bracket. Note if you have an electric handbrake the procedure is different.

- remove the brake disc (chances are this will be rusted to the hub and may need knocking off with a hammer against a piece of wood to avoid damage if you are re-using it).

- remove the hub cap (knock off with a screwdriver and hammer).

- remove the hub nut (you may need to knock out the peened over shoulder used to lock it). It may need a 30 mm AF socket but I am not sure.

- pull off the wheel hub - a puller may be needed. Citroen's procedures also say to remove the brake back plate and abs sensor but this could be so they are not in the way of the puller.

- clean up the axle (file/emery paper) so the new bearing will go on - Citroen show a tool being used to push against the inner bearing shell to fit it on the axle but this is probably not needed.

- refitting is a reversal but make sure the brake disc/hub contact surfaces are clean and flat to avoid possible disc runout but this should be checked anyway once the disc is on.

- if a new disc is used then also replace the pads and disc/pads on the other side of the car. If the disc is a premium one with silver paint on it, then the paint does not need removing but if it has grease on to prevent corrosion then this must first be removed (brake cleaner works well).

- grease the face of the hub nut and tighten to 250 Nm then lock it (probably this means to knock in part of the nut shoulder in to a cut out in the axle - use a hammer and a drift or the ball on another hammer to do this).

- the caliper support bracket bolts could need a torx bit and need tightening to 108 Nm.

- the caliper bolts holding it to the support are tightened to 28 Nm if needing an allen key type of bit to undo or to 35 Nm if needing a normal socket.

- the disc screws again need a torx bit and tightening to 10 Nm.

- if fitting new brake pads, the caliper piston needs winding in clockwise using a tool. It is good practice to let the brake fluid out of the bleed scew so that any dirt in the caliper is not pushed back in to the hydraulics - so whilst the piston is being moved back, have the bleed screw at a high point, crack it open and then let the fluid out (use a bleed pipe in to a container to catch it, or a lot of rags), tighten it again as soon as the piston is back so air does not enter. Then once the pads are in place and the caliper fastened back, pump the brake pedal a few times to move the piston back out before fitting the handbrake cable. Repeat this once the car is back on the road.

- the wheel bolts should be tightened to 100 Nm.