New Wiper Motor, Still No Worky

[8carlh]

Hi, hopefully someone can help me with my problems.

I am having a mare at the minute with my car. It is a 2008 C5 2.0 HDI+VTR.

First my MOT cost me £500, then my front spring snapped and that was an absolute pain to replace, but it got done.

My wipers don't work and the clutch (possibly release bearing) is on it's way out, a job for the future.

I have checked all fuses, replaced the drivers wiper motor with a brand new one, had it diagnosed (the people said I needed to replace both motors after investigation) with nothing showing. My stalk activates and deactivates the auto wipers, which I assume means that it's working.

BSI reset has been done but still nothing. I do need to replace my battery as it goes into economy mode instantly even after fully charging the battery.

 

I am currently at my whits end with it and need help and ideas as to what it could be.

 

PLEASE anybody.

 

 

[paul.h]

Welcome to the forum.

 

I guess you did not know but Citroen will replace coil springs up to about 80k miles when they break so you could have saved the bother and cost.

 

Were the people who diagnosed the wiper problem a Citroen dealer ? If not I would go to a Citroen dealer for it checking, it could be the steering wheel mounted wiper switch needs replacing which is part of the comms 2000 unit so cost could be £100 to 200 for a new one. On replacement it may also need the steering angle sensor to be calibrated. Did you check for any voltage at the wiper motors when they should be switched on ?

This is from the C3 section common problems pinned topic

27. Comms 2000 unit reset method to fix wipers/washers not working.

This topic by vectratot includes a method to reset the comms 2000 unit after the wipers and washers stopped working http://www.citroen-o...ing/#entry82270

This is from the C5 common problems pinned topic

43. New C5 (X7) front wipers not working properly.

Before replacing one of the 2 wiper motors, it may be possible to do a fix to the motor wiring pins - see this topic from c5vtr http://www.citroen-o...x7-wiper-motor/

 

You have not mentioned the clutch problem but it may help if the clutch master/slave cylinders are bled which should be done anyway when the brake fluid is changed. I have found the best way is to suck the fluid through using a mityvac pump but the method will depend on the type of bleed screw on the slave cylinder - some need a few turns, some need a quarter turn and others need the fluid pipe releasing slightly.

[8carlh]

I had to replace both wiper motors to fix the peoblem, parts are expensive from Citroen. Enough said about that. I have got the gearbox loose and the release bearing is completely shot. I have another problem now though, how on earth do you get the gearbox out? I want to check the clutch and flywheel and replace the lot if needed after all of the work involved. There was a lot of debris in the bottom of the box when it came free so I am fearing the worst. Rebuilding my old Austin is far easier than working on this car

[paul.h]

This is a slightly modified procedure for removing the gearbox from the Citroen service box. It is supposed to be about 8 hours to replace the clutch.

 

2. Removing

N.B. : The transmission is removed from under the vehicle.

Use a two column lift.

Lift and support the vehicle.

Remove :

• The headlamp cover trim
• The battery cover

Disconnect the battery.

Disconnect the connector of the flowmeter.

Remove :

• The battery
• The battery tray
• The upper protector of the engine management ECU
• The engine management ECU
• The lower protector of the engine management ECU
• The air inlet duct
• The air filter box

Unplug :

• The earth cable
• The reverse gear switch connector

Move aside the harnesses attached to the gearbox .

Remove :

• The hydraulic clutch control slave cylinder (2 bolts)

 

Uncouple the ball-joints from the gear control cables ; Using the tools [1], [2] (10 and 13 mm forks).

Remove :

• Gear control bracket
• The reverse gear device

Remove :

• The front wheels
• The protective panel under the engine
• The front LH splash-shield
• The air deflectors (covers at the bottom of the front wings)
• The sub-frame transverse stiffener
• The crankcase protector (frame around the sump)
• The turbocharger greasing pipe

Drain :

• The gearbox
• the cooling system

Remove the drive shafts

Remove and move aside the power steering pipes attached to the sub-frame front frame .

 

Remove :

• The front frame of the front subframe
• The reaction link
• The impacters
• The pre-catalyst support

Remove the securing bolts from the starter .

Move aside the starter .

Remove : The lower fixing screws coupling the gearbox on the engine.

Make contact under the crankcase : Place a wooden block between the sump and the jack .

Hook the crane onto the gearbox.

 

 

Release : The dynamic stability control (ESP) block.

Remove :

 

• The gearbox mounting
• The upper screws fixing the gearbox on the engine
• The gearbox

3. Refitting

CAUTION : Use the drifts [3], [4] to fit new final drive oil seals, having greased the space between the seal lips.

N.B. : Ensure that the gearbox centring pins are present.

Check :

• There are no oil leaks at the stop guide seal
• That there is no leak at the crankshaft seal
• The state of wear of the clutch
• The state of wear of the declutch bearing

Rectify (If necessary).

CAUTION : Clean the input shaft completely along its entire length, over its entire periphery and in the grooves.

Protect the interior of the clutch housing from splashes of grease.

Apply the recommended grease uniformly on the stop guide and the input shaft.

Grease the fingers of the clutch fork.

N.B. : For these operations, use MOLYCOTE G-RAPID PLUS grease.

Remove the surplus grease on the top of the grooves and the end of the input shaft using a cloth.

N.B. : An excess of grease will contaminate the clutch friction plate and cause noise in neutral, slipping or juddering of the clutch.

CAUTION : If the clutch disc is reused, the disc hub must be free of traces of oxidation.

Clean the bolt threads.

When refitting, the stop must be on its guide and positioned by the throw-out fork.

Set the gearbox in neutral.

Attach the gearbox to the engine.

Position : The dynamic stability control (ESP) block.

Refit :

• The bolts securing the gearbox to the engine ; Tighten to 55 Nm
• The gearbox mounting (60 Nm)
• The pre-catalyst support
• Gear control bracket
• The reverse gear device
• The starter motor
• The fixing screws of the starter ; Tighten to 20 Nm
• The impacters
• The reaction link ; Tightening to 65 Nm
• The turbocharger greasing pipe
• The crankcase protector
• The front frame of the front subframe ; Tightening to 55 Nm
• The sub-frame transverse stiffener ; Tightening to 125 Nm
• The power steering pipes
• The hydraulic clutch control slave cylinder. Tighten to 18 Nm
• The drive shafts

Refill :

• The gearbox via the breather opening ; 1,9 ± 0,15 litres
• The cooling system

Refit :

• The front LH splash-shield
• The air deflectors
• The protective panel under the engine
• The front wheels 100 Nm

Couple the gear control cable ball joints .

Fix the harnesses attached to the gearbox .

Connect :

• The reverse gear switch connector
• The earth cable

Refit :

• The air filter box
• The air inlet duct
• The lower protector of the engine management ECU
• The engine management ECU
• The upper protector of the engine management ECU (3)
• The battery tray
• The battery

Connect the flow meter connector.

Reconnect the battery.

CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery.

Refit :

• The battery cover
• The headlamp cover trim