05 2.0L Hdi Relay No Power

[AntoLevo]

Ive a swb 2.0l hdi relay, i find it dead on any sort of hill, most hills is 3rd gear sometimes 2nd gear. is this normal ? was going to put a boost guage on it see if its boosting right. i can hear the turbo whistle but before i start looking at boost and checking for leaks are these normal dead on hills

[AntoLevo]

Found the problem to loss of power. i checked boost, turbo, actuator etc and my head was melted. i took the mass air flow sensor out to clean it and put it back in and no luck but i disconnected it and bang i had responsive revs. So i took it out the driveway it it was great. So i parked it up incase driving with it dosconnect would cause damage so i ordered a new one for 58 euro and done the job. totally different van to drive. 

[paul.h]

Thanks for getting back to us. Was the engine management light on or has the bulb in it failed - it should be lit when first switching on the ignition and then go out a few seconds after starting the engine unless there is a fault when it will stay on.

[AntoLevo]

i will check tomorrow, engine light wasnt on before i replaced it. i will check and see and replace the bulb if it needs it unless the previous owner took it out as it was low on power when i bought it and he was desperate to sell. ill check and post up tomorrow evening

[AntoLevo]

there is a light with a picture of an engine on it  in red when i turn the ignition on and it gos out after a few seconds

[paul.h]

That is the one but on our car it is an orange colour.

[AntoLevo]

Here is a pic attached

[paul.h]

The engine management light is the one at the bottom, second one in from the left and as you have said, a nice red colour.

 

I have noticed the spanner symbol below OIL and oil level. This seems to be showing it is due a service since it is not showing the miles remaining to the next service.

[AntoLevo]

i just serviced it a few weeks back so i need to figure out how to knock it off. the oile level changes when its level. it reads right on the dipstick so i went with that

[paul.h]

On our Citroens the service interval is reset by holding in the speedo trip reset button, then turning on the ignition so the dash lights up, the service interval then counts down until =0 is shown at which point the button is released. The engine can then be started. This is detailed in the car handbooks.

[AntoLevo]

thanks for the info, i will do that

[Discoduck]

Hello AntoLevo could you tell me if the above instructions worked regarding resetting the service interval?

Tried it on my 05 2.2 relay but all I get if following the instructions is the letters CFG1, when pressed again it goes to CFG2 and on the next push CFG3 returning to CFG1 and so on.

What does the CFG meen?

Rgds.dd

P'S.the spanner symbol is displayed at the same time.

Edited April 12, 2016 by Discoduck

[Discoduck]

The CFG 1 2 3 Refer to service intervals.

rgds.dd

[Johno]

Hi, my relay is a 04 2.0 hdi turbo, when driving on flat ground it goes well in all gears, going up hills in 2nd revs go past 3000, but in 3rd gear it it only just goes to 3000 revs and van will not go over 40mph, is this normal? Also brake pedal is non existent then at top but kicks in half way to the floor, think master cylinder gone? Thanks for your help!

[Rookie2]

Hi Johno

My first call would be to take a look at the vacuum pump. Given that you are getting poor braking and what appears to be little turbo power, both depend on the vacuum in the system to operate correctly.

[Johno]

Cheers rookie2, seemed strange it drove fine on flat and rubbish on hills, could not understand it at all, the brake lines were leaking at rear so changed piping and bleed then up,brakes go hard when engine is off, then pedal sinks down before getting any pressure when running so I thought would be master cylinder seals buggered, is there a way to check if vacuum pump is buggered?

[Rookie2]

I buddy, as I said in the other post, start the engine and run it for a couple of minutes. Switch off and let it stand for a couple of minutes, then pull the rubber hose out which goes to the servo. When you pull it out you should hear the servo sucking air in.

 

alternative is to test the vacuum with a vac guage if you have one. Is your vacuum generated by a pump on the end of the cylinder head or an independent pump driven by the fan belt ? not sure when they changed over?

 

If it is not sucking air in, either there is no vacuum. there is a serious vacuum leak

 

let me know how you get on

Edited December 31, 2016 by Rookie2

[Rookie2]

PS, I'll ask one of the moderators to sort out the two separate posts as it may become confusing for other readers to see two separate entry

[paul.h]

The original poster sorted the lack of boost by replacing the MAF but confirmed the fault before doing this by disconnecting its electrical plug which let the van run better. This would have been in limp mode so the performance would still have been limited.

 

Apart from checking the vacuum pump, some thoughts on the brakes.

 

There could still be some air in the brake hydraulics and it might need the abs pump bleeding which requires diagnostic equipment. Where the brake master cylinder bolts to the servo have a look for any leaking brake fluid which can indicate the outer seal leaking but not the internal ones, also look in the footwell to see if any fluid is running out of the back of the servo.

 

Does the servo retain vacuum overnight, shown by pumping the brake pedal before starting the engine - if not it could be a sign of a vacuum leak on the servo side of the non return valve on the hose to it or a faulty non return valve.

 

If you push the brake pedal quickly does it still sink as far since I have found on some Citroen brakes the pedal response depends on how quickly you are braking. Another thing, is the handbrake adjusted correctly - if not it could lead to excess brake pedal travel since it can prevent auto adjustment of the brakes shoes/pads.

[paul.h]

Copy of reply by Rookie2 to Johno's duplicate post which has now been deleted:

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Sorry Johno, never noticed this post, I have just replied to your duplicate post.

 

Check how much vacuum you have in the system, these engines depend on a tip top vac system to operate efficiently, poor brakes and poor engine performance would tend to indicate a vac problem. It could be that both symptoms are unrelated but best to go for the easiest and most obvious option first

 

If you can get to the vacuum hose as it runs into the servo, start the engine for a minute or so then switch off. Leave it for a couple of minutes then pull the vac hose out from where it enters the servo and you should hear the servo suck air in as the hose comes out.

The servo will not hold the vacuum for ever but if it is depleted after a couple of minutes then either their is little vacuum being produced or there is a serious vacuum leak.

 

That vacuum is used to operate the turbo, no vacuum means no turbo power, especially on hills.

 

Check the small rubber hose that runs to the actuator on the side of the turbo, make sure the hose is not split or blocked and check carefully where it slides over the spigot on the actuator as that is a favourite place for it to split

 

If vacuum is ok then come back and we will try to find out what else it could be.

[Rookie2]

Thanks Paul, happy new year

[Johno]

Hi guys managed to look a van today, sorted brakes out, the rear drum brakes just needed adjusting on both sides, so easy job thank god. Noticed when test driving it today for brakes that it throws out a bit of black smoke when going up hills when it gets to around 3000 revs mark when engine needs to do a bit of hard work?? Ideas, turbo egr valve?? Cheers guys appreciate help.

[Johno]

Plugged mates mates snap on scanner in and says has errors p0101 air mass sensor circuit and p0110 intake air temperature sensor

[Rookie2]

Hi Johno

 

I think you will find that the Temperature and Mas are combined, they usually are in one unit.

 

cheers

[paul.h]

Looks as if the MAF may need replacing then but you could unplug it to see if there is any difference.