Mark Heyes Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Hi again I've decided to get the clutch replaced in my saxo 1.1i on an 02 plate at last. Can someone please advise me exactly what I should replace besides the 3 part clutch. Should I replace the diff oil seals ? Should I replace the clutch fork and the clutch bearing guide/seal and other bearings which I believe go over the bearing guide aswell ? Thanks, Mark. .. Quote
paul.h Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 I think normally you would replace the clutch, its release bearing and the bearing guide tube. If any oil leaks are noticed the relevant seals would be replaced. You would check the flywheel for any wear or damage and also the clutch fork. Citroen's clutch kit includes new screws for the clutch cover so maybe these should also be replaced. For the BVM5 gearbox there are no other bearings on the guide tube. The gearbox input shaft should be greased as follows when the gearbox is put back:1. ForewordCarry out this operation at every refitting of a manual gearbox or piloted manual gearbox, to enhance the engaging of the gears.ESSENTIAL : Use MOLYCOTE G-RAPID PLUS (aerosol).2. Greasing methodClean the splines of the primary shaft Using a metal brush .Spray a light coat of MOLYCOTE G-RAPID PLUS grease (aerosol) onto the following components :Clutch bearing guide sleeve Splines of the primary shaft Arms of the clutch fork ESSENTIAL : Remove any excess grease from the end of the primary shaft and from the top of the splines Using a clean cloth. Quote
Mark Heyes Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 Hi Paul thanks very much for your help as it's brilliant. I've ordered a new clutch fork kit which was nearly as much as the clutch kit surprisingly. I've also taken your advice and ordered a new clutch bearing guide seal and decided to also replace the diff oil seals as the driveshafts will have to come out both sides apparently. I was going to buy semi-synthetic gearbox oil but on reflection decided on total 75/80 oil as it's apparently what's best to keep the gearbox tight. They certainly know how to charge and got no change from £120 for the parts alone. If I run into any problems whilst fitting I'll be sure to give you a shout back but hopefully with the advice you've given me I should be OK as I'm quite methodical and will label and diagram everything as it comes off.So again many thanks for your help Paul. Take care, Mark. .. Quote
paul.h Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 I am not sure but it may be possible to leave the drive shafts in the diff but remove them from the wheel hubs. Then move the gearbox to one side complete with drive shafts rather than removing the gearbox fully from the car. Quote
Mark Heyes Posted January 24, 2016 Author Posted January 24, 2016 Hi again and thanks for your advice but the driveshafts will have to come out from what I've read so it'll be easier to just replace the seals at the same time. It's easier to refit the gearbox if the shafts are out as apparently it's a bit of a pig to line back up if not. Plus the gearbox is quite light in comparison to others and it'll be me and my 12 year old son doing the work so don't really fancy having too much weight to deal with once the engines been supported. Cheers again Paul. .Mark. .. Quote
paul.h Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 To help line up you might consider long threaded rods to fit in the engine block through the bellhousing and then slide the box back. Places like Toolstation are cheap for threaded rod. I do not know what thread size you need but 1 m of M12 is only £2.58 http://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=56775%2069124%2086206%2026973 Quote
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