Guest JM-lusc Posted January 9, 2011 Posted January 9, 2011 Hi, Just ordered some new iridium spark plugs and socket set to do a spark plug change. Just trying to do as much maintanance myself to keep costs down at the next service / mot. I'm learning as I go with the car maintanance and I haven't done spark plug changes before. Could anyone provide an explanation or relocate me to a guide for a 1.1 c2? I can see one spark plug right at the front but am unsure where the other 3 are. I found a guide for a 1.6 but they are not in the same place. Any help will be much appreciated. Quote
paul.h Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Haynes manual for the C3 includes the 1.1 engine and I would expect it is the same one as in the C2. There is a French manual for the C2 which you can get direct from ETAI and possibly Amazon's French site. The spark plugs are under the ignition coil unit at the back of the engine and this needs to be removed. The torque setting for the spark plugs is 25 Nm, do not over tighten them or you risk damaging the cylinder head threads. Make sure the seating area is clean before fitting the new plugs. Quote
Guest qman3428 Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 Haynes manual for the C3 includes the 1.1 engine and I would expect it is the same one as in the C2. There is a French manual for the C2 which you can get direct from ETAI and possibly Amazon's French site. The spark plugs are under the ignition coil unit at the back of the engine and this needs to be removed. The torque setting for the spark plugs is 25 Nm, do not over tighten them or you risk damaging the cylinder head threads. Make sure the seating area is clean before fitting the new plugs.Do them one at a time, that way you keep the lead on the right plug and dont get them mixed up. Quote
argoose Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 DO NOT touch the spark plug at the front of the engine! That is your lambda sensor. Plugs are located at back of engine block after removing coil pack, just below and in front of throttle body Quote
Guest JM-lusc Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks for the replies everybody. I know where to locate them know as I broke down the other day and saw how the AA man did it :blink: I went through what looked like a fairly shallow but long puddle in the yorkshire dales and ended up hyrdolocking my engine. I went down a hidden dip in the road and into deeper water and it got sucked up the air inlet. I couldn't turn around as other cars were right behind me and couldn't stop, but they were diesels and got through it ok. Car started up again and can drive but one con-rod got bent. Luckily it appears to be covered by my insurance as it is classed as a road traffic accident. It will certainly make me think twice about driving my car through any amount of water, even if other people are doing it. The garage I was towed to said it would be a minimum of £500 repair, possibly a new engine. And 'First Call GB' breakdown service refused to tow me even to the nearest garage, as their policy doesn't cover this. Avoid at all costs. Quote
paul.h Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 Hope it does not cost too much to fix. Diesels would also suffer the same problem. The cars you saw going through probably had the air intake above the water level. Quote
Guest JM-lusc Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 The air filter was way above the water level I think it was a bow wave created by moving through the dip in the road that pushed it up into the filter. The ones that went after me literally went at about 2 mph to ensure the wave didn't build up too high. We'll see what the insurance mechanics say anyway.... Quote
Guest JM-lusc Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Just though I'd update this thread... Got the car back 2 weeks ago after my insurers decided an engine replacement was in order. New engine installed and everything with that seems fine now after a few initial starting problems. Before the accident the gearbox and clutch was perfect; no gear crunching or difficulty selecting gears. After the repair I sometimes find it hard to engage 1st gear. When i'm rolling up to a junction and need to drop into 1st, it won't always go in, it just seems to spring back. I have to stop and keep dropping the cluth to get it in which can be annoying. Secondly, when stationary and trying to engage first gear it won't go fully in (feels like it's trying to spring back out) then, when I set off it clunks into place (not a good noise). Took it back to the garage and they said give it a few weeks to bed in, as the clutch is slightly worn and the engine is brand new. Is this a viable reason? Anyone have any other dieas what it could be? The gear problems don't seem to be happening as much over the last week, but it may just be coincience... Thanks for any help. Quote
paul.h Posted February 21, 2011 Posted February 21, 2011 Most likely the gear change needs adjusting/setting up. This would have been disconnected from the gearbox when the engine/gearbox was lifted out. Difficulty engaging the gears would also apply with the engine switched off. If it is a hydraulic clutch then also this may need bleeding or if cable then the cable adjusting. Quote
Guest JM-lusc Posted March 27, 2011 Posted March 27, 2011 Hi, I took the car back to the gaage in relation to the crunchy gearbox and he said leave it for a few weeks to bed in before bringing it back. Thankfully, he was right, the new engne and gearbox are now working absolutely fine. Cheers for your help. Quote
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