paul.h

This has happened to our C3 1.4 sx petrol this cold weather. Have you also been getting 3 beeps on starting which is a warning of a low battery voltage. Ours was about 12.2 volts at the battery which classes as only part charged (see Haynes, 12.5 is normal). Anyway, removed it and charged it up to 12.6 volts (in the warm house) and is ok now. I have looked at replacing the battery in case it fails. The standard installed is a 300 amp one and most replacements are 400 to 500 amps - have a look at eurocarparts.

What you have proposed/done sounds fine and I hope the journey home was without problems. Having now seen a picture of a Saxo radiator (on Eurocarparts), I see that the header tank is part of the radiator as opposed to a separate one on one of the wings with max/min level marks and connected by hoses.

Just a guess, have you tried to open the window when it was frozen shut, then when the ice has melted the window has managed to open ? This would not explain why it will not close again though. When I have had a window not close (on a Saab) this was due to dirty contacts inside the switch and applying a 12 volt supply to the switch wiring connector was a temporary measure to close it. This also proved the problem was not at the window motor end or the wiring in the door hinge area without having to take anything apart.

I guess this is sorted now, but if I was only a 5 minute (1/4 mile) walk from Halfords, I would walk there, let them sell me the anti feeze recommended for the car (and maybe a Haynes manual for the car to learn some basic car checks) and then go back and pour it 100% strength in to the header tank (to give a level about half way between max and min) and then if the level is still below the minimum mark on the tank, add up to the same quantity of tap water so at worst the combined strength added is 50%. Also look for leaks to find out where the old anti freeze has gone.

There was something recently in either the Caravan club or Camping and Caravaning club magazine about possible changes in the law about towing cars with I think A frames and the need to actuate the towed vehicle's brakes (as it may be considered as a trailer). I can not remember the details but it may be on their web sites.

May be also worth you looking at the latest C5, this is supplied with standard shock absorbers or with the hydractive ones in their place on the exclusive models so may be a more normal size for a retrofit.

What model/engine is the car ? If you have climate control, it could be an electric motor (solenoid) that moves the relevant ducting flap may be stuck in the cold position and hence need replacing - are there any grinding/slipping gear noises inside the dash ? I think things like this have appeared before, usually as one side of the car is hot and the other is cold. If you do not have climate control, then maybe the cable from the temperature control knob to the ducting flap has come undone or broken - this is covered in the Haynes manual. Also check if the water hoses at the bulkhead to/from the heater matrix are hot.

I can not help but it may be worthwhile copying this to the Berlingo sub forum pages.

I tried the air con switch on our car today and even though it did not run (cabin fan off and below freezing temps) the switch LED lit, just the same as the rear window heater which was working. Something common worth you checking first are the earth points E15 (as Haynes) for the heater switch panel located to the right of the handbrake lever and E5 for the air con control panel bottom of left hand A pillar.

On our C3 (2003, 1.4 petrol sx) there are no covers under the dash at the driver's side (where the air inlet ducting is located) so a quick look can be achieved with a mirror and torch. The BSI (Boitier de Servitude Intelligent) is a Citroen thing but is the computer for the car that controls many of the electrical things as opposed to simple plug in relays and wires. Haynes calls it the Built-in system interface. Within it are some protection fuses and relays but I do not know if they are diy repairable.

How long are they lasting, did the original one break, how are you adjusting them (using guidance from Haynes manual ?), any damage to the pulleys and do they all turn freely without the belt fitted, are you routing the new ones correctly and are they catching on something, did you replace the idler and adjuster pulleys, where are the new belts coming from and are they the same size as the original one ?

If it is the same diesel filter as on the C5, Haynes says to push down a button (looks rectangular within the pipe) at the pipe connectors to release each pipe. Bleeding may be mentioned in the car handbook, Haynes mentions using a hand pump.

moh, is this related to your post of 4/11/2010, engine warning light on all time and not revving above 3000 rpm ? If so, maybe you could add to that post on what you have done/found out so far.

The air con may not be working since the outside temperature is too low, not sure of value but possibly if below 6°C. Also needs the cabin blower running. Also if the refrigerant amount/pressure is low (leaked out) then it will also not work. The fuses are listed in the car handbook (our C3 is petrol so may be different nos. and recirc is done by a sliding knob, not a switch). Haynes also mentions the relays in the electrical section 12.3 as being in the engine fuse box and some as part of the BSI. Haynes includes wiring diagrams that may apply but check any fuse locations/value with your handbook. The recirc sliding knob moves a lever that moves a section of the air duct above the driver's pedals - in your case the switch will run a motor that moves this section of the ducting. Have a look, it may be the duct has jammed (ours sometimes sticks when hot) or the motor may need replacing. The heated rear window may be fuse 10 (40 amp) located in the dash fuse box. It gets a signal (timer ?) from the BSI. Did any of these things work before you changed the radio ? Are there any other problems which may indicate something wrong with the BSI.

I have had this on the odd occasion with our cars, would not unlock or lock from the remote but then in a different location has worked ok straight away. Not done anything about it but put it down to some interference such as mobile phone/mast or other in use in the area.

'when pressing the lock button on the remote for a third time (after the deadlocks have been engaged) the hazard lights flash rapidly for about 5 seconds' - I think most cars do this so nothing to worry about - helps confirm the car is locked at any time and also so you know it has received the signal from the remote, although this may not be the official reason.

Gendan do a reasonably priced range of code readers. Start about £40.

Was the car bought from a dealer and hence with a warranty to cover the costs ? We had something that sounds very similar with our Xsara Picasso and that turned out to be a hidden maxi fuse that had blown but I guess your dealer has checked all of these on your car. No reason found and it never happened again but I kept a spare one in the car after this. The RAC did not find this fuse and towed the car to the dealer.

Without the proper alignment kit, I find it easiest to point the car at a wall and make sure the level part of the light pattern on dip beam is lower at the wall than at the car headlight - how much lower depends on how near to the wall you are. Also the part of the beam where it starts to go up to the side should be in line with the car or slightly to the left. The light from each headlight should be set up the same with the level part at the same height. Then when it goes for an MOT see if it passes. In the past, this was in the Haynes manuals but now they say to have it done at a garage.

milpol1, I think the anti freeze in our C5 is a clearish colour (maybe slightly yellow) and that has been in since new and has not been topped up/diluted at all.

More info please, diesel/petrol/engine size/mileage/fault code/anything happen before problem started/any work done on the car ?. When I had a similar problem (1.4 petrol) the dealer replaced 2 injectors, problem started after heavy rain a common fault on the car, water drips through the washer jet/bonnet hole and on to the injectors causing them to fail.

First time I tried cleaning the air con (on a Saab 9-5) I used Forte air con cleaner which at the time cost around £20 inc postage. This was set off inside the car with the air con on recirculation so the vapours were sucked in to the air con system and on to the matrix. It did not work that well, the musty smell was masked by an apple smell and there were powder residues in the cabin air vents. I then read on the Picasso forum about the Dettol surface cleanser and have since used this many times, approx once a year on our cars and it works a treat and costs very little each time. A fine spray is best so I pour the liquid in to a separate sprayer than the one in which it is supplied. Apart from the C5 (where removing the pollen filter leaves a big hole in the air ducting between the fan and matrix), the other cars I just spray a few times into the air inlet with the pollen filter removed, with the cabin fan on and the air con on so the matrix is damp and more likely to catch the spray. Then leave to dry overnight to kill the mould and next day the smell has gone. Have a look on the Picasso forum also.

Alipatch, just had a look back at your previous posts, did you sort the auto gearbox problem ? Where are you located, for future work, somebody may be able to recommend a garage if you have found your mechanic is not familiar with the C5 to the extent you were left without a handbrake which may also question the competance of the person. The handbrake works on the front brakes so as Coastline has pointed out, maybe the mechanic did not refit the cables when the front pads were replaced or damaged the calipers by not winding the pistons back in properly. You could have a look yourself to see if the cables have been hooked back on to the levers on the calipers. If you do not want to go under the car, you may be able to see this by raising the car to full height and putting onto full steering lock each way.

With the steering on the full lock which makes the noise, have a look under the car to see if anything has been bent and possibly catching the front wheel which went over the curb.

I think you will need a diagnostic check to read the abs fault code to see what is wrong as opposed to replacing parts on a hit and miss basis. I take it the abs light is not going out or is coming on when moving.