seefive

My 2008 2 litre exclusive petrol auto (Mk 2 hatchback) 31 on the screen, but 28 when measured brim to brim. Mixed town/country/M25 driving

DMF = Dual mass flywheel. Very expensive, so best get it looked at quick!!

When I had my module (called a resistor pack, I think ) replaced at the Citroen garage they struggled to get it to connect properly. This is a very common problem and it's pretty much always the resistor pack that's failing, or not connecting properly.(hence it coming on when you thump the dash)

so - since switching the wheels have you had an accurate low pressure warning, indicating the correct wheel/tyre?

I have a Mk2 - the people in the tyre place I went to recently carefully marked the wheels - they said if you switch them the computer would warn you of low pressure on a back wheel when a front wheel was down. ( or OS when NS was down etc)...

Is it true you can't "rotate" ie move the position of roadwheels (swap fronts and backs for example) without confusing the tyre pressure monitors, and giving wrong alerts? Is each transmitter registered to the computer based on its position, and can this be changed? Just interested. Thanks

Just to close this out, box is working fine now. I'm £280 down after 2 visits, loan car and fluid change (£45 for the fluid alone), but I'm now confident with the car. Driving to the snowy wastes of York this wekend, which will be a test (400 mile round trip)

Strength should be about 50% antifreeze/ 50% water, I don't know how much coolant you've got in the system, or what the strength is. If it's only slightly low, a litre of antifreeze and a litre of water should get you going. Generally, if the radiator is warm and your heater is working in the car, the cooling system is not in a critical state

Distilled water won't do any harm, but ordinary tap water would do. If the header tank starts filling up quickly, leave room for a litre of anti-freeze, to save having to drain the system. It doesn't sound too serious - no clouds of steam. Is your oil OK? check the dipstick.. If in doubt call the AA

What colour was the indicator? On newer Citroens they light up blue when the engine is cold, then go out, presumably come back on red if it's getting too hot.

Shouldn't be a problem. I did this in a C5 Mk1 a few years ago. Your display will continue to show all the non-radio information, and the new unit will have its own display. Some after market radios will allow connection via extra leads to your car display, but probably not worth it. If you have remote volume control, that can usually be connected too.

Hi Steve What you are describing is alignment, which I wouldn't recommend without the proper alignment kit they have in garages/MOT stations. If you set them too high, you can dazzle people and cause an accident. Sorry to be picky

Silly question but - are the lenses dirty? If they are clean, and you're sure both bulbs are working and the battery is OK, your only option is to upgrade to Xenon (dipped beam only), but that would be very expensive - not just a simple bulb change. If you suspect the alignment is out, you should get them properly checked and aligned at a garage that does MOT's. Due to the self-levelling suspension on the C5, there is no user adjustment provided.

Interesting - I thought LEDs were supposed to overcome this problem. Is this a Mk2 C5? (2005 onwards) My Mk2 goes through standard sidelight bulbs at a similar rate - Now I've mastered the art of fitting them myself (did the nearside in the dark last night without removing the battery !) I'm going to try OE bulbs from the Citroen dealer next time. I think the after-market bulbs just aren't strong enough. BTW I think the trick for fitting them seems to be to do it in the dark with the sidelight on - watch the diffuser whilst groping around, and when it lights up you know the bulb is aligned - then it just pushes in.

I recently had the offside front wheel arch liner and the radiator guard replaced at an Indie garage and the parts total was £65 plus vat. So not worth going second hand really.

It's a screw fit, so pulling upwards definitely won't help. These are prone to rusting solid, although I've not had that problem. However, my local ARC carwash insist you DON'T have to remove bendy/beesting aerials like the C5's. I have been through with the aerial in place with no problems.

The level plug was rounded - they coudn't loosen it. So a new one is on order then it's going back in to have it broken out. Burning some money here, but a stitch in time could save 2 grand!

Thanks for that. One other thing I've noticed. The pull against the brake is much stronger in R than D. Does this point towards linkage problems, or is it normal?

Car is booked into Citroen garage for tomorrow. I've asked them to change the gearbox oil and check the linkage, plus given them precise instructions how to road test (simulate heavy traffic). Will post results. This car is giving a whole new meaning to the phrase "stuck in traffic"!! Browsing aroud the internet, there are wildly differing opinions on th AL4 box - from brilliant to awful. Citroen say it's "lubricated for life" but some people recommend annual oil change. We shall see..

Thanks for that - could well be on to something here. It only happens when he car has been in traffic for maybe 10 minutes, although the engine is at normal temperature. Could be the gearbox getting too hot? Also, it sometimes hesitates when starting from cold, feels like it's in the wrong gear, and I have to kick down to get going. ECU problems?

Update on this. The car completely refused to move today when I was in a traffic queue. Called out Green Flag recovery and in the 30 minutes I was waiting the car miraculously fixed itself! The recovery driver dove the car onto the loader, and drove it off and into the Citroen garage when we got there. Garage have run diagnostics and can find no fault. Test drove at length and no problems. Am I going mad??

They're not too bad, although I can't change them myself. The Halfords boys seem to have no trouble. I've had both mine done there. I think they choose particularly dextrous staff members to be the fitters. Offside - unbolt the LDS tank and move it a couple of inches back to give better access. Nearside - remove the battery (leave car to stand 15 minutes first, so the ECU parameters are stored) They seem to grab the wires between their fingers and pull.Getting it back in requires a bit of patience to align the lugs and get the bulb holder square with the hole

The memory is probably full (after 999 miles it stops recording) Press and hold the end of the right hand stalk whilst the trip screen is showing, and it should reset. Overspeed flashes and beeps a warning when you exceed a selected speed, which you have to set by driving the car up to the required speed, then pressing the stalk when you have reached it (that's what it's checking - waiting for you tell it the speed to set)

Halfords fit them for £5. Takes 5 minutes and the bumper does NOT have to come off. I have the same model as you (but the petrol version)

Me again Thinking about this, the SX always comes with dual zone climate control, the VTR sometimes does, sometimes comes with manual air con, which would put it below the SX