Martin_1973_uk

I guess it is hard to tell what sound an engine and parts make. I personally don't have any tapping noise. The only sound I get is like a blowy exhaust when you rev it, even a little but that is normal. I don't get the sound you describe and it could be dirty leads to the sparks. The sound can sound like tappets but it is the sound of the spark jumping across the gap from the lead to the plugs etc.

Cheers mate. Tried it on my C1 and it works a treat. Driving around the base short distances use to be a pain having to wear the seat belt all the time.

I have done 14K in the first year so 20K should be ok although it could start to get very tatty and rattly towards the end of the five years and would be worthless at the end on that mileage so long as you continue to drive it carefully. I think you'll find the Skoda quicker depending on model. The saving on fuel would make it worth while though and I totally recommend these cars. Go for the 3 door as they look better.

Make sure you go for a Metalic as the base colours look cheap inside. Silver on the inside of the door matches the trim better. I have a 3 door but if your going to use the rear seats often it is a pain not having the five door. What is on the Code model? The rear seats are spacious although the boot is tiny, I mean really tiny. Dogs should be fine. The sub system I'n unsure of but no doubt they can do wonders these days. The stereo is ok but nothing special. The main advantage is the running costs. If your after anything else then forget it as the engine is rough sounding although economical and quick enough for average Joe.

I have the same problem with my Gearbox. It seems a lot worse when the engine is cold. It will crunch in second gear and is certainly not smooth. I might take it back to the dealer or just await the next service as it isn't getting any better.

I'll second that, along with central locking. I want to do the same to mine. A rough price would be helpful?

Great stuff, How does it switch over and can you feel the difference? £1,000 is a great conversion price. How long did it take? Where is the filler whole for the LPG? I believe all C1's will be exempt from the congestion charge this Autumn anyway plus the tax goes down to £20 as of next year.

Mine came with the car brand new. When I said I was interested, the dealer said he had one coming in to my spec but it had Air Con. I didn't want it for £600 extra so he did the deal for £250. I doubt you can get Air Con fitted at all but if you did it would cost a lot. Why not trade it in for a model with Air Con?

You'll be servicing your car in another 12 weeks at that rate, oh dear!!!!!!! That is the problem with the C1, the service intervals are to low. I'm on 12K after almost a year and mine has held together really well, so far but I have treated it very well.

How do you manage such bad economy? Are you thrashing the nuts off it as if you are you might have more mechanical trouble not to far ahead. 3 cylinders can't take a hard life, you might be better off buying something a little bigger.

I'm surprised you don't hear or feel it cut in. It's like a click then a thump then the engine revs rise. I've had my car a year now and have only needed to really use it once. I manage to get mine for £250 as the car was already coming in to the dealer so he gave me a good deal.

I find I lose power when pulling away if the compressor kicks in at just that moment? The engine is a little weak to be having Aircon so I tend to use it just 10 mins a month. With the Summers we have I don't think it will ever be needed anyway. If you haven't got it, you won't miss it I'm sure.

It was a £600 option when new so I would guess it is very expensive. I had mine a year now and I haven't really had to use it in the UK. Window down seems fine, so I would save your money.

and the rear lights, hence them leaking. French and Italians just can't make cars!!!!!!

I test drove one and after 2 miles I decided it drove a lot better than it looked. No regrets. Very cheap to run. The only down side is the car service at £180 every 10K miles which comea round often when you rack up the miles. Enjoy.

I'm getting 61MPG but that is mostly on my commute on empty country lanes around 50MPH with hardly any stops. Great stuff what with the cheap road tax as well. On another note, I have recently completed a Police Driving Course and was told that keeping the revs up in a car, not changing to 4th gear until you reach 40MPH, was more efficient. I can't see how this could be, any cooments? I'll be trying this out in the C1 now to see if the economy changes at all. One thing I have noticed is that I get to places a lot quicker though.

The squeek on the seat could be the seat belt holder. Try moving it forward slightly and see if the noise continues. I've got so many squeeks and rattles in my car I've given up trying to cure them. Exhaust wise the car just sounds that way. I find it sporting sounding. The 3 cylinder thing is a myth. My last car was a 3 cylinder Dihatsu and that sounded like a normal car. Hope this helps.

Road Tax for the C1 will be £20 in 2009 and free in 2010 according to the Department of Transport. This is being funded by people with bigger cars having to pay a lot more road tax :-)

If you were only doing 3000 RPM then I would imagine your Speedo is out as in 5th Gear 3000 RPM should read 70MPH. Was the other traffic keeping up with you? I had this on MY Toyota MR2 and the speedo said 80MPH but it was actually clocked at only doing 70MPH. I think the maufacturer figures of 98MPH top speed are the give away signs......... Like the car though?

I'm not sure as the speaker size would have to be fairly small. Could be worth cutting a few large ones in the back parcel shelf as well. If you find any let us know.

The road tax in 2010 onwards gets even better a £0 :-) and no congestion charge as of October I've also heard but this hasn't been confirmed yet. Doesn't get cheaper than this.

Welcome to the Forum Littleminx. I have so many rattles on my C1 I just ignore them now and turn the stereo up........ Still a great car though simply for the low running costs

I had the same thing on my Nissan Almera. Engine cutting out and sluggish random performance. It was a fuel sensor in the exhaust that had failed so I would imagine it should solve the problem. Total pain though as you lose trust in a car after that.

How did you manage 110MPH when the Book states top speed as 98MPH? Was it down hill wind assisted etc? I got mine to 95MPH and it struggled and began to feel a little unsafe so I backed off. After owning and driving an MR2 at high speeds I feel that was enough.

How do you manage 110MPH when the book states top speed as 98MPH, better get that speedo checked out?