Johndouglas

I think you mean the pollen filter. A particle filter is in the exhaust system. The pollen filter is behind the glove box. You'll need to remove the three screws holding the carpet at the rear of the glove box. The filter compartment has a sliding lid which may be tight to push along. After removing the lid, the filter pulls out. Notice the fitting so that the new one goes in the correct way.

I think they're spinning you a yarn. Why would the rocker cover have to come off? Even if it had to - it's no big deal! Haven't seen a petrol system but I used to have a diesel. The front pipe was connected to the exhaust manifold by spring-loaded bolts on a flange, and the job was done from underneath. I would take the car to an exhaust centre for a 2nd opinion. Brake discs would only warp if they had been very much over-heated. Are both front brakes releasing properly?

Is this the same problem that plagued Xantia brakes?

Small comfort now - but had you used http://www.gsfcarparts.com you would have got all six spheres for less than £140 with free carriage. Also they have a branch in Worthing.

Before I spent money on paying for a replacement gaiter, I would want to know if the driveshaft was serviceable. If it's rumbling - it isn't. A reconditioned shaft can be bought from GSF for 75quid.

Whether or not the joint is damaged is dependant upon how long the gaiter has been open. You haven't said what car you have but generally, to replace the boot you'll need to remove the hub from the driveshaft end, and probably withdraw the shaft from the transmission. A much easier solution would be to use a split boot kit. Opinions differ on how serviceable they are.

On all the TU engines, No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the blocks. Firing order 1-3-4-2-

It's doubtful whether you need the complete system. I've been running diesel Citroens for many years now, keeping each one for eight or nine years, and all I've ever had to replace is back boxes.

I met with the same confusion when I bought my towbar. Some 'experts' said I didn't need relays, others said because it was multiplexed, I did. In the end, since the C5 is multiplexed, I went with the relay suggestion - and since I've fitted it, I've towed 2500miles with all lights and equipment working correctly.

Sorry - a quick read of your post lead me to believe you had an HDI - so I've deleted.

If you have Xenon lights, then you probably don't need to do anything. My C5 is fitted with them and Citroen UK told me they don't need beam benders. However, if it has normal bulbs, you can get a beam bender kit which you just stick to the lens. Look in Halfords or the shops at the port, or even on board.

With multiplexed wiring systems, it's safer to use a seven way relay. Power is taken directly from the battery, with each bulb only sending a signal to the relay. I've just finished wiring my C5 estate in this way. Start by checking your fuses.

Neither do Peter Russek and I'm told they don't intend to publish one.

I've got a C5 Exec Estate and the front tyres have worn down rapidly. Just over 10K on the clock and about 3mm of tread left. I mentioned it when I took the car for it's first service, but all I got was some b******* about cars with power-steering wearing tyres quicker. I had to point out that my previous Xantia went 35K on its front tyres. Upshot was that he said they would investigate, but when I went to collect, everything was reported as being correct.

I would change it pronto. It could last much longer, but if it snaps, it'll do a hell of a lot of damage.

I think your dealer is trying to put the frighteners on you. The sump is not likely to 'burst' - it's not like a balloon full of pressure. If it did rust through, it would start as a pin hole with just the tiniest of drips. You may be sure that the inside surface is good since it's always coated with the oil. When are you due next for an MOT? The examiner will soon tell you if there's too much amiss with your sump.

Same with mine! I have a 2005 C5 Exec Estate with 10K on the clock. The front rubber is down to 3mm already. Since it had done 5000 when I got it, I'm wondering if the dealer switched the wheels before sale.

The same thing has just happened to my Xantia estate. I've always kept the rear seats folded, and yet when ever I've needed to carry back-seat passengers, the seats have come up OK - until recently. Hell of a job to get the centre belt released.

Nothing unusual about this. The n/side usually wears quicker than the o/side.

I run an 8 year old Xantia and fortunately, I haven't had to replace a matrix. Several guys have done the job and described it on Andyspares forum. You're right - the dash has to come out and it's probably a two day job. Cost for parts isn't too bad because you can get a replacement Valeo matrix from GSF or Eurospares car spares for less than £40.

Sounds as though you need a new driveshaft. The outer joint has worn. Jack up with the wheel off the ground, then turn the wheel slightly, backwards and forwards. You'll maybe hear the clicking. You should be able to get a recon shaft for less than 50 quid.

My Xantia and Xsara reset like this. Maybe the C5 will do the same way. Press in and hold the trip reset button. Switch on the ignition keeping the button pressed. The service indicator might change, one digit at a time, until it's reset.

You should find an improvement in your towing with the HDI, but maybe not a great improvement on fuel consumption. I use a 2.1 Xantia to pull my van at about 87% ratio, and it does around 29mpg.

Lower ball joint is similar to the one on the BX. Most of the tool companies make a removal tool, but they're difficult to use in situ. Best to take the hub carrier off the car and put it in a bench vice.