Johndouglas

But maybe threatened with the loss of your custom, they'll waive the duplicate fee. They'll try anything to get a few more notes out of you.

My reply to them would be - If you insist on my paying for duplicate documents I haven't received, I'll pay for one months insurance, then find another company.

I bet you its the heater matrix. Check the water level in the coolant reservoir.

I've just come off a forum where a guy is breaking a Xantia. He may have what you want. Look here: http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/view...pic.php?t=20345

I believe Xsaras were the first vehicles to be multiplexed so I would work on the assumption that your car has it. The easiest way to run the wiring is to use a 7-way relay (see them at http://www.towsure.com/default.asp?c=H22&x=10&y=9 The way I did my C5 was to run a cable from the battery through a 30amp fuse close to the battery. To save drilling holes in the bulkhead and lifting the carpet, I ran the cable under the car, inside the conduit covering the fuel lines, up over the fuel tank, through the plastic cover under the back seat and into the boot. The 7-way was fitted into a cubby-hole in the boot and the supply wire was connected to it. I then accessed the rear light clusters and used piggyback connectors to each bulb supply. The wires were connected to the respective terminals on the 7-way. The 7 core cable from the socket came through the boot floor suitably grommetted and connected to the wires fitted to the relay. This way, the original lighting works without the main computer being aware that there is extra load. I tow a caravan, so I also need a supply for running a fridge and charging an on-board battery. That's achieved by using a Smartcom which is also fed from the battery. To ensure a full 12volts for the fridge, the cable needs to be substantial. Since I had two wires running together, I enclosed them in PVC tubing.

Over the years the fitting of towbars has become easier. Offer up the bar, and the captive nuts are there ready for the bolts. Not so the electrics. They are more complicated than on earlier cars. Find out first whether or not your car is multiplexed. If it is, be on the safe side and use a 7-way relay. Are you wiring for 12N and 12S? if so, the easy way is to use a Smartcom with a supply taken directly from the battery.

It could be that the timing belt has slipped a tooth. I would get the three timing holes looked at and see they all line up.

I put my C5 in on 1st birthday at 11000 miles and it cost me £254. What a rip-off. 38 quid for 4.5ltrs of syth!!

Would that be petrol or diesel?

I agree with you - this is a great site - but if you want to talk to BX owners try posting your questions on http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/ Although members are mostly Xantia guys, there are still some BX enthusiasts.

But only if you have Xenon headlights. Normal lights do need them.

I'm all in favour of frequent oil changes, but isn't every 3000, especially on synthetic a bit too frequent? Don't know about the lower engine cover but my Xsara is held with three nuts along the front edge with two turn screws down each side. I manage to do oil changes without removing the rear nuts.

I don't know for sure, but I'd think the 110 and the 90 would have different tyres. I suppose you know that the 110 has an intercooler and the 90 doesn't - and it shows!

To get to the horn, you'll need to jack up the vehicle at the front, remove the n/s front wheel and take off the wing liner. The horn is behind it. Check for 12volts with a multimeter or bulb when the horn push is pressed. It may be necessary to check fuses or replace the horn. You didn't say what the fault was with the suspension.

Take a look at the bottom engine mount. You'll find it underneath, just below the off-side drive shaft. The rubber doughnut should allow slight movement, but not too much.

If this problem follows immediately on from your fuel filter change, the answer is that you haven't got everything back in an air-tight manner. Check the unions on the filter and the sealing ring around the top.

What you've been quoted is about the going rate. They'll fit you a cleaned filter and return your old one.

On early models it's a well-known fault. When I got my C5, I asked about it and the saleman assured me the fault was cured. (But then he would, wouldn't he. For a DIY cure, go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C5-L/ You'll need to register and then look in the files section.

Hope the fluid was pink and not green??????????

Not always. Valves can leak internally - in which case fluid is returned to the reservoir.

To get to the rear of the lamps either remove the battery or the hydraulic bloc, depending which side you need. By the way, the handbook says xenons are a dealer only replacement - don't know why!

You need to turn the crankshaft until holes line up in the camshaft and injection pump. Put a 8mm bolt through the hole in the camshaft so that it screws into the head. Put a 6mm bolt through the hole in the pump so that it screw into the head. Then a 8mm rod should slide through a hole near the starter motor so that it enters the flywheel. When you've got all three in, everything is aligned correctly.

BX's were nearly always 1.7 capacity, either turbo charged or atmo. At the end of their run they produced a few with the 1.9 engine. You ask should you go for a turbo or atmo. The atmo's are rather sluggish and if you like a bit of performance, go for the turbo engine. The atmo engine was alright in the BX and Pug 205, but the Xantia is a heavier car, so I would imagine performance would be disappointing. The HDI is a much more sophisticated engine than the XUD, with lots of sensors to control the performance, so if you like the simple life with little to go wrong, get the XUD, preferably the 2.1, if you can find a good one. Also, if you like getting your hands dirty, you'll find the XUD easier to maintain.

I've tried, unsuccessfully to put a picture of my C5's mudflaps with this post, but it hasn't worked. I've fitted them front and back on the C5 and on the front of the Xsara. I find that they are only of benefit on the rear whilst towing a caravan. Mine are Cannon flaps bought off e-bay. They are easy to fit, being held on with three self-tapping screws. Holes need to be drilled but they only go into the plastic wheel arch liner. Take measurements to ensure that both flaps are the same distance from the ground. How do you include a picture?

But only on the flat. Keep the cruise on as you come to a steep hill, and the pedal will floor, using much more fuel than if you changed gear and dropped the speed slightly. Even more so if you happen to be pulling a trailer. The aircon effect on consumption is more marked on a smaller capacity engine than a larger one. During the early 90's I had a 1.7 BXTZD fitted with aircon which increased fuel consumption by about 5%. When I moved on to a 2.1 Xantia, aircon had little effect on consumption. My C5 seems to be the same.