TheGoose

Sorry its sold mate!

Hello there, I have been away for some time and just read the replys to my post. I believe I have created a post or replied to a post of how I done the DPF mod to my C5. I started by removing my DPF/CAT from my exhaust, two clamps, and two pipes which goto the sensor on the bulkhead, and a couple of wires which goto the heat sensors I think. The DPF/CAT is bolted together in two halfs, the DPF side has the larger proportion. I unbolted them and smashed the entire system out making a completely hollow unit. (DPF & CAT). Then re-assembled the exhuast system and re-attached the wires and pipes. I then used a Galletto Cable and ECUsafe to apply a patch to my ECU to turn off the whole DPF system and Re-generaion system. This was done in Sep 2011, and I remember that one I drove the car for the first time the engine pulled like a Train! For the first 100 odd miles or so there was a nice whistle from the turbo due to the hollowness of the exhuast. It made the engine sound quite unique, kind of like a huge turbo diesel truck! But after a while, once the sides of the hollow chamber coked up a bit the turbo whistle reduced a bit. Regarding any warning messages, or any other mechanical issue, I have had NON. I still own my C5 to this day, I have done around 7000 miles in the car now, with no issues what so ever. A few months later I dropped out the Eloys tank and drained it, and re-fitted it. Hence my post on this thread. I have now sold the fluid. I do not regret removing my DPF either, My car passed its M.O.T with flying colours back last April 2012 also. In fact the MOT'er commented on how clean my emissions were! ;) I have coupled this with a Diesel Tuning box, and a few more mods too relating to the Re-Gen System and the EGR system, and BOY my car is alot more powerful now. Regarding Economy, it all depends on how you drive the car, but im still getting around 45-50 mpg. Happy Days

Just a quick question, when checking the LDS fluid level, do you do this with the suspension all the way down? If so there are two markings on the tank, I am assuming lower and upper. So if the fluid hits the upper mark, then im assuming that is the maximum level? Thanks Mike

Hello there, I hope im posting in the correct place. I have drained my Eolys tank into two bottles and I have just shy of 3 Litres of DPX42 Eolys Fluid for sale. The fluid was removed from my C5 2001 2.2 HDI. The fluid is not contaminated in any way. Please make me an offer! Thanks Mike

Hello there, I hope im posting in the correct place. I have drained my Eolys tank into two bottles and I have just shy of 3 Litres of DPX42 Eolys Fluid for sale. The fluid was removed from my C5 2001 2.2 HDI. The fluid is not contaminated in any way. Please make me an offer! Thanks Mike

Hello there, I hope im posting in the correct place. I have drained my Eolys tank into two bottles and I have just shy of 3 Litres of DPX42 Eolys Fluid for sale. The fluid was removed from my C5 2001 2.2 HDI. The fluid is not contaminated in any way. Please make me an offer! Thanks Mike

I have dropped you a PM coastline.

I have got the blanking plate on order from Ebay. I will also aquire a ball bearing from somewhere too. Do you know if the butterfly valves on the air intake can be removed or disabled aswell? Cus im concerned that with these flapping about all the time during the rev. range then this could be restricting the intake pressure, and maybe contributing to poorer running, mpg etc. The Butterfly valves work with the EGR system, aiding this system to work with ANY rev range. By reducing air intake pressure at various engine RPM's. Without these Butterfly valves, the EGR system will only work with low/Intermediate RPM, and will not work at all with Higher RPM's Basically how I understand this EGR valve, is that the EGR itself (if working correctly) doesn't contribute to the oil build up of the air intake, and tract + valves etc. etc. This is mainly caused by the Crankcase breather and a bit from the Turbo unit. Which is normal. However, combine this oil with the EGR's heated carbonized air, resaults in this sticking to the oil build up from the Crankcase Breather. and gets baked on, causing your engine to coke up badly over a period of between 40k-60k. AND this also contributes to the blocking up of the Diesel Particulate Filter aswell, as all the crap which gets pumped into the air intake gets burned by the engine, and deposited into the DPF and over time can lead to the DPF problem, which so many of us have/or had. I have learned this from various other forums from around the net. The problem with EGR and Crankcase Breathers relate to both Petrol and Diesel engines. Except for the DPF which are only fitted to more modern diesel engines. Have a read through this forum thread specifically talking about the 2.2 Hdi Engine, and the belief that the 2.2 Hdi was a PSA experiment in trying to increase the rev range over which it was possible to get recycling of the exhaust gasses beyond the 2K range of previous generations. To do this they use modulation of the Turbo the EGR valve and the Air admittance valve plus the swirl valves. NB This may have been a requirement of EURO4 I havn't studied the Euro3/4/5 requirements. Did they get it right? Well the experience of most owners would appear to be no!.. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34544 Also check out this YouTube video on what this mechanic thinks about EGR! I believe that if you read through this information, and watch this video you will be able to make up your own mind about the EGR systems found on lots of engines, as I know that alot of people have mixed opinions regarding this. I found this info. VERY helpful, I have made my own mind up now. Thanks Mike

I have a 2001 C5 Exclusive SX Hatch 2.2Hdi (Not Re-Mapped yet) 5 speed manual. 105K on clock. De-Fapped. Tyres inflated to about 34 psi on front, and the same on the rears. On motorways 70mph, lets say reasonably flat, not much wind, I will get between 50-55mpg. That's when I am watching the instant mpg calculation, if I reset and watch the average, it falls exactly the same. I have no drag on my front brakes either. I know that my mother-in-law's previous car was a brand new C3 1.6 Auto Petrol engine, and this was crap on fuel! I mean even on a run, all you would get was high 30's mpg and that's it. If you were going downhill on the motorway you would get into the 40's, but only in that situation. Personally, I don't think that auto box's are very good on fuel on any car, (compared to the manual versions) there heavy! With lots of stuff going on in them, like multiple clutch's etc etc. Which I think doesn't help with fuel consumption, Auto box's are..... at the end of the day for people who don't like the manual-ness of changing gear all the time. LOL but this adds extra complicated technology, and Weight!. Correct me IF i'm wrong. I go manual gearbox any day, but it's all personal taste! Can anyone help me blank my EGR aswell? As i am familiar with what it does and how it does crap up your engine, personally, I don't like the sound of hot crankcase emissions being fed back into the cool air inlet. Happy days! Mike

My suspension cuts out pretty much instantly once maximum height is reached. The idea of lowering the front is more of personal taste really, I think the front rides too high, it may be ok like this, but like i say I have this Inwards camber issue aswell. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks for the .PDF file you sent, I may consider lowering the front end by a small amount only (lets say 10-20mm). As by what Coastline has said once you hit 70mph the car lowers again by 15mm, so whatever adjustment I end up making to the front, i will have to compensate for an extra 15mm of lowering for speeds over 70mph. If I where to do this, could this then cause the pump not to cut out when it should on max height? As I would of thought that as long as the Potentiometer moves to the maximum height position, then the ECU would think the cars at max height, surely this would then cut out the pump. With your issue, maybe someone has over adjusted the Potentiometer too much, or its faulty? Whereby mechanically the suspension has reached the top but the Potentiometer has not? Then the ECU would be constantly activating the pump, waiting for the Potentiometer to reach the max position? Just a thought! Thanks Mike

I am actually quite shocked that both cams are not driven by a belt or chain? That is a bit different! Oh well thats the French for you. My Cam Belt and rollers were changed at 73k ish, and the cars got 105k ish at the moment. so I guess we change the belt every 70k miles? Do you know if the chain driving the other cam ever has to be changed or adjusted? Thanks Mike

Hi there, Citroen C5 Exclusive SX 2001 Mk1 2.2 Hdi Does my engine have a Cambelt or Camchain? Silly question I know, as I believed this to be a Cambelt, but when I remove the oil filler cap I can see a Chain! Also does it have one cam (8v) or two cams (16v) Thanks Mike

You don't have to remove the bumper just to replace your xenon lamps (HID's) I replaced my original 6000k D2R lamps with 8000k D2R lamps. I know that the Mk1 C5 uses D2R type lamps, which have a reflector built into the lamp itself, aswell as having another reflector cap built into the headlamp. I started by removing the black plastic cap on the passenger side first, as this is the easier side to work on. Remove battery for extra room, you will have plenty of room on this side. Once cap is off, you will see a shiny metal round plug with a wire going to it, usually covered with metal braid. Twist this unit anti-clockwize by about 10mm. You will hear metal scraping, don't worry its just the metal clips which are tightly touching the unit. You will feel the unit come loose, so just pull it out carefully. You will see the rear of the D2R lamp now. If you look at this lamp, you will see the little clip in which you have to push in, then to the side and the clip will move downwards on a hinge. You will be able to extract the lamp itself now. It can only go in one way as there a two key ways cut into the lamp itself. So putting a new lamp in is the reverse of what I just said. On the drivers side, there is alot less space because of the suspension pump. You will find this a bit of a hand shredder, I found it easier, once I removed the black cap to stand in the middle of the front of the car, inbetween both headlamps facing towards the engine, and slide your hand in from the side, to loosen the metal unit (Anti-Clockwize) it took me a few attempts and swearing but eventually I heard and felt that lovely click, and I pulled off the metal plug unit. The next hard bit that I found was trying to unclip the clip. Again working from the sideways method I found worked, but this was after battering the end of my fingers by pushing in, and to the side all at once (again due to not being able to work head on) and shredding my wrist and arm lol! Once clip is loose, its just a reverse to secure the new lamps in. I brought two lamps from Ebay for £20 and I have had no problems what so ever! They are aftermarket, so you may want to re-check or adjust your headlamp aim afterwards. Mine was just a slight adjustment for perfect aim! P.S I have also fitted HID kit on my High beams aswell. They are H1 type lamps and I have chosen 8000k again for this. I tell you what, the high beam is now 10 times better than the original Halogen type lamp which is fitted as standard! Well I hope this has helped you guys/girls out here http://www.gozzy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/6000k.JPG

Hi Mikey, my name is Mike! I wouldn't mind having a pop at the mechanical adjustment on my C5 aswell, as I believe mine is running to high at the front too. It seems to be exactly how you have described it. Around 30mm to high. Its even noticeable from a great distance, when looking side on. I'm trying to find a cheap Lexia cable off Ebay. But there all the PP2000 type, and there expensive too. Do you know where I could buy a cheap one? Aftermarket or otherwise. And if you could send me over the relevant documentation on how to adjust the ride height sensor mechanically that would be a great help. When my engine is running and the car has self-adjusted to normal height, (front higher) It appears that both my front wheels are cambering inwards slightly, I have just had 4 new tyres fitted as the prev. front tyres had exessive outside edge wear. I'm concerned that my new tyres will wear out quicker because of the camber? Could this be because the front is too high? Or is there something else going on? The rears or rear wheel/s are cambering out slightly, but I'm aware that this could be my radius arm bearings (another job on my list). My car is C5 mk1 Exclusive SX 2001 year. I will PM you my Email Address. Cheers and Beers Mike

Hi there, just an update. I had my 2001 C5 2.2 HDI mot'ed in April just gone, and it passed the MOT with no problem at all. 100% Hollowed out CAT/DPF and ECU modded for this. I had no advisories for emissions either. I have done a few thousand miles since the dpf removal and now that the hollowed out chamber has coked up a bit the Turbo has quietened down a fair bit. Its just about right now sound wize! Another thing, I had 4 new tyres fitted before the MOT, all balanced correctly and I have had the Tyre Pressure Sensors removed, with standard valves put in place. I get a message pop up telling me there not there anymore but thats about it, message comes on about once for every time I drive the car, then goes out after a few seconds. No STOP or SERVICE lights on either, and no Limp mode. Thanks Mike!

Well... I popped into my Local Redditch Citroen Branch today, one of the service guys said he CAN do it, he advised me this would cost about 30 mins labour, @£53! What a rip-off for 30 mins labour! Although I know this type of thing will only take a couple of mins, once you have the equipment to hand! Everything is possible if you know what your doing! I have already De-Fapped my engine, and disabled this on my ECU by myself, with the help of Coastline Taxis, who kindly lent me his Galletto Cable. I done the research and got the results! I'm sure there will be someone on here who knows how to do this, and has the relevant software. I don't like the tyre pressure sensors, never have.. I like to be in control of my own tyre pressures, I know if I have a bit of a flat tyre, or puncture. Its called common sense lol!, Anyway, another thing with these sensors, is not only are they too sensitive but they are common for causing blow-outs due to the inner part of the valve, which is made of corrodable metals and after time this can happen! Talk about dangerous! There are threads on here regarding this BTW. So if anyone out there can help, I dont mind paying a sensible amount for the help, I just think that £53 for 30 mins labour is very expensive, were talking Solicitor rates now lol. Thanks Guys/Girls Mike P.S. I had my car M.O.T.ed two weeks ago and it flew through the MOT! This is with my CAT/DPF completely 100% hollowed out, and ECU DPF files patched. No advisories either!

Hello members, My Name is Mike and I own a 2001 Citroen C5 Exclusive SE 2.2 HDI. I have removed all of the tyre Pressure sensors when I had four new tyres fitted and replaced with standard rubber valves. Occasionally I get a message up on the green screen saying "ALL FOUR TYRE PRESSURE SENSORS REMOVED" This message stays on the screen for a few seconds and then goes out, I don't get the "Service" or "STOP" lamps come on or Limp mode. I had the message come up twice today and that's it. Is there anyone out there who knows if its possible to disable this Service in the ECU? If so can anyone help me to do this? Thanks.

I would argue that with the DVLA/ VOSA whoever. Just becuase your car is Super Clean, why should your MOT history be penilized with an advisory note!

When you say the CAT would remain place do you mean the shell? or the actual Cat innards (ceramic bit). As when I smashed all mine out, I could of left just the Cat in there, as the section is bolted together in two halfs. According to other people on the forum, if you Totally smash the innards out the car still passes the smoke test. My MOT is up in April, so I will find out, however I havent really seen any massive amounts of smoke comming from my engine anyway. Nothing other than the usual amount. Mike

I will drop you an Email when I finish work tonite, around 9 pm ish. Thanks Mike

Hi there Steve. Wouldnt it be easyier to just remove the cat system from the car, then bash out the guts completely with a bar, then re-assemble? That way the Cat looks completely untouched. I have done this with my dpf/cat on my citroen as you know. And ive also done this to my old vectra 2.6 v6 with no problems! The only problem that could occure with this method is whether the motist may pick up on the slight noise which is created from the hollowness of the cat system? Im not sure. However on the vectra this noise wasnt really noticed. But I have noticed on my 2.2hdi citroen that you can here the turbo whistle alot louder than before. So maybe it would be this that an motist could pick up? I honestly dont know with the new mot rules yet. But my mot is up in April so il obviously find out!

Well just an update guys and girls I have now sucessfully removed my DPF file, so now my car is back out of limp mode, no service lights on either. Pulls like a train! Many Thanks to Coastline Taxis for helping solve the issue! Regards Mike

Well... I have received the Galetto cable and ECU read/write software. I have identified my ECU as BOSCH EDC15C2. I have installed Galetto cable USB Drivers, and I have hooked this upto my car, I clicked on read ECU DATA. Which returned the results to say that it has found my ECU (I guess). Then I clicked on the READ ECU button, which has successfully read my ECU data file, and I have saved this to my Desktop, and a MASTER backup copy to another location on my laptop. Just in case! File size is 512Kb... Now onto the next part. I havent got the instructions on how to modify this file, to remove my DPF file from the ECU file itself. I have already smashed out the innards of my DPF/CAT. So the obvious end result is Anti-Pollution Fault and permanent Limp mode. So is there anyone out there who could advise me on how to perform the file modification, as to remove the DPF part, and remove the limp mode aswell. Just to clarify I only have the Galetto Cable and the software to Read/Write ECU DATA. and nothing else.. I sure hope that someone can help me! Thanks Mike

Hi thanks for your reply, Im pretty sure its just the DPF thats the issue. I have already done a service, which included the diesel filter. Coastline has dropped me a PM to help me remove the DPF file from ECU. So hopefully this will remove the error and limp mode, I will keep you informed! Thanks Mike

Hello to all members of the forum! My name is Mike and I own a Citroen C5 Exclusive 2.2 HDI Hatchback 2001 year (Y reg). I had the DPF filter blocked message pop up, back in last year. So after reading on this forum I decided to bash out all the innards of the DPF/CAT section of the exhaust. Which did solve the problem for a while, but after a month or so my car came up with the Anti-Pollution Fault and Instant LIMP mode. How annoying! Limp mode is always on now. I was expecting this to happen from what I read on the forum. I was planning on getting my car re-mapped and DPF removed from my ECU aswell, but due to massive money problems at the moment I cant afford the £200 odd pounds to get this done. I have read on here that there are some people with the ECU cable, and the software who could read my ECU file and remove the DPF file/s from the ECU and hence stopping Limp Mode. As this can be quite dangerous driving around like this, especially when you really need the power to get out of sticky situations. So my question is: Is there any members of the forum who could remove this file from my ECU? Taking my car out of Limp Mode? I will consider a remap at a later point in time as and when I can afford this. But at the moment my car feels a bit dangerous sometimes, espeically when Im going up a hill with no power! I live near Birmingham, I am quite prepared to travel to you, or you can come to me maybe? Please let me know, and how much you would charge me... Thank You Michael