Jonno

The cause was in fact a cam follower bearing - it came out of the rocker and released the rocker which in effect stopped the exhaust valve from opening. It would have been a viable repair job and probably not too costly either - oh well. Anyway seeing as I have another engine fitted I have a few spares I really need to sell to recoup some of the outlay. I have a HDI pump, common rail, a set of injectors, a turbo unit and a fairly easily repairable cylinder head. What sort of prices should I be starting them off at on e-bay??

I would nearly put money on it being the heater matrix has sprung a small leak. Not a particularly good job to replace as it's a bit of a sh!t to do. Try slackening off the radiator expansion tank cap so the system doesn't pressurise to get you by for the time being. Don't undo the cap with the engine hot!!

Try disconnecting the cable to rule that out being the problem, is the pedal pivot point partially seized? I don't remember my 1.4 Xsara having a hard pedal, my Hdi doesn't either. I think the reccomended mileage for cambelt change on the 1.4i is 75k - but as you don't know the history of the vehicle, whether it has been used for short journeys etc, it may be prudent to get it changed before too long. Mine cost me just a tad over £100 for belt and labour (not a main dealer by the way) Ensure whoever does the belt change uses a quality belt such as Gates or genuine citroen. I would imagine that the mirror is held in place with torx screws and the electrical side is on a multiplug connector - shouldn't be too bad a job to do. Try GSF for a replacement (GermanSweedishFrench) they have outlets across the country and are reasonably priced for spares. Either that or a scrappy

Have you tried GSF? Don't use bluetack - it will probably catch fire. Those bulbs get extremely hot!! I made a temporary clip for my daughters Pug 307 headlamp bulb out of a paperclip. Been in there a few months now and hasn't come loose.

The last time I had a belt done on a 1.4i petrol was around £100 fitted (not main dealer I should add) I have had quotes for a 2.0HDi of anything up to £200 fitted - again not main dealer prices. Compare the belt replacement prices to the cost of an engine rebuild and they aren't too bad. The price of a cam belt kit (belt and rollers etc) is probably around £60 to £70. Go for a reputable make such as Gates belts.

Should be self priming when the ignition is turned on.

Could just possibly be a flat battery?? Charge the battery (with a charger - not by the engine running) and try again.

Many thanks for your reply John - much appreciated. In the light of day, after returning home from work I have discovered that it is the front spring that has broken. The bottom coil has snapped off and the next coil was resting on the top of the tyre. That was causing the graunching noise. Spring is now off and I shall go and find a replacement tomorrow. I will replace as a pair for safety's sake and to maintain correct ride height. I know the C3's had a recall about their springs but was there one for the Xsara (mine is an early 2004 HDi)

May have to change a front wheel bearing as it is really graunchy - seemed ok yesterday but this morning tried to drive off and its really rough as though the bearing has started to break up?? What are they like to change?, I will have a look later but just wondering whether its a full strut off or whether the hub is separate to the suspension strut.

If you are getting misting up and a puddle inside the car plus a smell of warm antifreeze it's nearly a sure enough sign that the heater matrix or the couplings to it have developed a small leak. Perhaps a local garage could do a leak test for you? It would mean pressuring up the cooling system manually and looking for leaks and checking for drop in pressure.

S/H warrantied engine now fitted and goes very well indeed. Once I get a bit more time a stripdown of original motor should reveal extent of damage and cause.

I would change that cover seal as a priority - the last thing you want is an oil contaminated cambelt - it could weaken it and that could lead to a whole host of expensive repairs. The cam cover gasket is probably a rubber gasket ?? no need to use sealants on it. Pay attention to torque values for the cover bolts - too tight could distort the cover and promote leaks. The gasket should be fairly long lasting if it has been installed properly in the first place. Check the engine breathers for blockages - if they are restricted then an excess of crankcase pressure could build up and force oil out where its not supposed to, such as through gaskets or even crank oil seals.

Sods law isn't it -- just got a 2.0HDi engine for my Xsara (mind you I got the 110 not the 90) Would the wheels fit my Xsara without any further mods?? If so what sort of price you after for the full set??? e-mail me jonno@ladaniva.co.uk

It's ok waiting for the log book - but - if the previous owner signed it over to the garage with the completed "transfer to a motor dealer" off the old log book the garage will in fact be the last registered owners.

Don't know about the C3 but I got quoted upwards of £50 for a plipper key for a Xsara. They have to be coded to the BSI unit, I believe, at a Citroen dealership. The tag could well be a code for the key so the dealers can get hold of the right one - or it may be the radio code ?? No good going to your local key cutters as the genuine ignition keys have a computer chip in them which has to be programmed to the vehicle.

No need for the trim panel removal for the broken wire (if that is in fact the problem) as the broken wire usually occurs in the door jamb area where the cables run through from the cabin to the door itself. I suppose its because of continual opening/closing that causes the fatigue in the wiring harness in that area.

When I had my 1.4 Xsara the central locking wouldn't work from the drivers door - it turned out to be a broken wire in the multiplug wiring to the drivers door. All I did was pull back the rubber boot from the plug to expose the wiring and solder in another cable between the broken ends. I believe there are complete plugs available from Citroen but can be a bit pricy at around £90 (so I have been told) It also improved the efficiency of the electric window too - seemed as though it may have been earthing through other circuits??

Possibly a bad contact at the speed sensor (If I remember right its somewhere near the diff unit on the gearbox) System works on very low voltages so any slight dirt or corrosion or cable chafing could have the needle being erratic. May possibly be a speedo head problem but best to check the simple stuff first. Not had the vehicle jump started lately have you?

No apparent wear on the belt at all, and seems correctly tensioned?? According to the service record a new belt had been fitted only last August and has only covered 11k since. More investigation needed.

Thanks for the info Colin - much appreciated. Can anyone tell me the difference between a RHY an RHZ engine?

Latest: No events/error codes logged in ECU. All four pots down on compression by over 50%. looking as though cambelt may have jumped a tooth??

Early indications from the garage is definitely something mechanical, further stripdown required but the possibility of fitting another engine is looking likely. I will keep you posted on any further developments.

How many wire audible unit is it? If I remember right (if its a five wire jobbie) two of the wires connect to the 7 core cable (can be done by scotchlocks) to the yellow and the green wires, the white wire from the audible unit would be an earth. If its done at the rear quarter panel area where the cable enters the vehicle it can be kept fairly neat and tidy. The other two wires from the unit, green/white & yellow/white connect to the vehicles indicator circuits - right and left respectively. Hope that helps a little. If you google audible trailer indicator there will probably be a number of different sites that will offer a more comprehensive answer than I can give you. Take care mate.

Thanks for the prompt reply and giving me a bit of hope. Would I not have got an ECU warning light though for maybe low rail pressure ??

Red to red black to black and blew to bits --- lol (take no notice of that, only having a laugh) yeLlow - left hand indicator gReen - right hand indicator bLack - left hand sidelight bRown - right hand sidelight ----- black and brown can be linked together in the plug blue - foglight white - earth red - brake light