Jump to content

Jonno

Members
  • Posts

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jonno

  1. My xsara HDi engine developed a really heavy knocking and blowing noise today, I suspect it may have dropped a valve and holed a piston, anyone had anything similar? Any advice on repair or how much a replacement engine may be (oftens cheaper to change the whole lot than strip down, replace broken parts and rebuild) Noise happened all of a sudden at around 20mph in town. No immediate loss of power, no warning lights, no smoke frrom exhaust either - just a loud heavy clattering noise when revs above idle speed. Wasn't far from the dealer I bought it off - he came to have a look and said "not good, I will have it in the workshop on monday and let you know" I will keep you posted on the outcome.
  2. Is that strictly true?? I contacted my Citroen dealership and Audio Island (a local car sound system installation place) I asked them whether I could install a kenwood head unit and a multichanger without any problems with the BSI unit not recognising it. The answer from both places was "Yes, you can fit the head unit without any bother at all and the only things that wont work would be the display (for radio station/CD track info and the remote stalk on the steering column)" Upon refitting the original radio cassette that was originally installed in the vehicle it would power up and operate as normal - no codes needed.
  3. Perhaps fuel filter clogging up ?
  4. The noise I had was near the drivers door pillar and perhaps towards the centre of the headlining. I found that if I pushed the headlining up it would almst stick in place then come away again. The carpet I used was cut into narrow strips - probably around 3" wide and a foot long. It was only cheap thin stuff. I managed to pull the headining down enough to push the carpet strip between the headlining and the roof both on the drivers and pasenger sides as I said with a thin wire coat hanger bent at the end. If I remember right I put four strips in in total and spread them out a little either side of the middle. I suppose it worked because it just put enough space in between the adhesive backing of the headlining and the roof so it didn't keep sticking and parting when it moved. Not really interested how it worked - only that it did.
  5. Yes indeed it is the adhesion that has failed, I had the same on my 1.4i LX and I cured it by pulling off the door seal rubber on the front and rear doors so that I could gently pull the headlining down just enough to slip some thin carpeting between the headlining and roof. Didn't need much at all, I think I used a couple of thin strips very carefully positioned with a bent coathanger wire. Don't go spraying adhesive between the lining and roof otherwise you will end up staining the headlining. Annoying noise isn't it!! Be careful don't go ripping the lining or bending its framework out of proportion.
  6. I would suspect it is a wheel bearing. Does the wheel rock at all when jacked up off the ground? Remove driveshaft nut, split the suspension strut from the bottom balljoint and pull the strut to release the driveshaft from the hub - see if you can turn the shaft without it being in the hub. If you can then its a wheel bearing problem and you are half way there to removing the hub assembly for bearing replacement.
  7. Its probably because the pads have become glazed, removal of pads and a quick rub over with an abrasive pad to get the shine off their friction surface will cure it, (do not breathe the dust). Also it will give you a chance to check condition of any anti rattle springs/clips that may be fitted. Loose shims,anti rattle components etc. can give rise to brake pad squeal too.
  8. Its the Built-in Systems Interface, a go between from various controls/switches to their respective things being switched on/off etc. Its basically a computer controlled interface. Here is the copied and pasted reset procedure from the internet (I accept no responsibility if it doesn't work or causes further problems) Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.). Switch on the side lights through the driver's window. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds. Remove key open & close door test central locking system. Start the engine and complete the system's check. Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items.
  9. Jonno

    B S I

    Very basically the BSI (Built-in Systems Interface) is a component that distributes electrical signals to turn switches/devices on and off around the vehicle. Being a central control unit it is relatively easy for the dealers to plug in a diagnostic tester to it and find out whether there are any problems.
  10. Sound as though it could be a combination of things. I am wondering if the BSI unit is not working properly. There are a couple of threads on here relating to resetting the unit, don't know how good the reset procedure is as I have not had to do it (yet). Hopefully someone else could shed light on the procedure and its effectiveness. The amber square symbol with a key in it relates to the immobiliser - if that is illuminated the vehicle wont start. Have you a spare key you could try just in case the vehicle is not recognising the computer chip in the key fob.
  11. I have a work colleague that has a C5 Exclusive (or is it excecutive?) its a 2.2HDi, when he puts it into sport mode the suspension does seem to drop slightly. Is it true that its only the 2.2HDi's that have the "eolys" fluid additive to help clean the DPF filter. Yes it is an expensive job to have them done. My daughter was quoted around £900 to have the DPF filter changed and a recharge of the aditive on her Pug 307 HDi (fortunately done under a warranty) I had the 'cat' changed on my Xsara 2.0HDi for £141
  12. Airbag warning light:--- possibly a loose electrical connection under drivers seat Gear linkage:--- If it's squeaking in all directions it will probably be where the lever runs through the baseplate that is dry. Inaccuracy of selecting gears may well be an indication of worn bushes, I don't know whether the bushes are available separately but would tend to think (knowing Citroen) that they come complete with the linkage rods.
  13. Would be very strange if there wasn't one, seems a bit of a pain if there is one only in the fuel tank. Surely there must be an external fuel filter?? Not underneath the car is it, near the side of the tank?
  14. Yes Please, -- Always good to have photo essays of peoples work, better than Haynes manuals in some respects. Look forward to seeing them.
  15. Could it be a fuel starvation problem? Perhaps the delivery pump in the tank not stumping up enough fuel delivery for the HDi pump at prolonged increased revs. If the management light is on its obviously recording some fault - have you had the fault codes read yet?
  16. See if it has service history, cambelt should be done at around 75k if memory serves me right. I had mine done at a local garage for under £100 and that included the alternator belt also. Listen for any unusual noises from rear suspension components - knocking could be indicative of bushing wear, mounting points, shock absorber problems etc. Gearboxes can develop a bit of a whine/rumble on overrun that is possibly associated with the diff bearings &/or components, more annoyance than anything. If the radiator has a plastic screwed in bung at the top it can sometimes leak if it has been overtightened (usually the plastic threads split) A metal one can be obtained from such places as farm machinery supplies (same thread as hydraulic fittings) and use a dowty washer too. Has it got a spare key? they can be a bit on the expensive side. Front discs can be susceptible to wear but are cheap enough on e-bay. I had over 30k miles on a set of front brake pads mine and still plenty of friction material left when I sold it (they were Citroen brake pads) Most service parts are available over the counter at motor factors at very reasonable prices. I regret getting shut of the Xsara for a Mazda - enough so that I sold the Mazda and went back to a Xsara (2.0HDi 110hp this time)
  17. Replied to you on the Xsara forum.
  18. The Haynes manual gives the maximum towing weight (braked trailer) of 900 to 1200kg dependant on model and specification. A quick phonecall to your local Citroen agents will confirm what yours would be capable of, but judging by the figures given and assuming the trailer tent is braked you wont have a problem at all. Keep the trailer nose weight below 70kg. I owned a 1.4LXi and it regularly returned around 45mpg on motorway trips down to Southampton. That was fully laden, although not towing anything. Hope that helps Neil.
  19. Apologies for not replying sooner, shiftwork doesn't half get in the way of social life !! I don't know what sort of job it is to do, I would imagine it's a bit of a clat (as most things Citroen tend to be) Have you a friendly mechanic mate who could have a go at it? Get a price for the matrix from GSF (GermanSwedishFrench) they have various branches over the UK and compare to main dealer prices! Oh, and yes, the expansion tank is connected to the rad Davet. Looking in the Haynes Manual it gives the replacement of the heater components a four spanner difficulty rating - no suprises there then. Plus a four spanner rating to get the fascia panel off too. Good luck with it. Maybe its an 'O' ring on the connections that is leaking? unfortunately its a stripdown to get to it I shouldn't wonder.
  20. Probably the easiest way to see if it is leaking is to feel around the plastic shrouds at floor level where the air ducting outlets are from the heater - if they are wet then I would say it is the matrix leaking. Also it would be coupled with a need to top up the radiator expansion tank frequently, (drivers side in the engine compartment not too far from the windscreen washer top up) There are kits available with a hand air pump that screw on to the expansion tank and are used to pressure up the coolant system for such checks - garages usually have them.
  21. Have you checked the coolant level lately?? may be a leaking heater matrix or air con fluid??
  22. I would suggest that the alternator is not charging the battery then. Have you had a voltmeter across the battery terminals when the engine is running? You should get around 13.8v if the alternator is charging. There may be a fuse in the system somewhere that has blown? I would have to look in the manual to double check that. Is the battery charge lamp illuminated when the engine is running? Check wiring from the alternator to the warning light to make sure it is ok. If the warning light bulb has blown it will cause a no charge situation.
  23. I have used both cheaper brands and more expensive ones - to be honest I didn't find much of a difference in the handling abilities between a £35 and £75 tyre. The 55 profile tyres are a bit more expensive than the 50 profile (purely because there are more 50 profile tyres made) Ok, so speedo error will be marginal but not excessive. Are you sure there are no other underlying problems giving you steering problems. Such things as worn bottom balljoints can give rise to vague steering and can also lead to other tell tale signs like tyre squeal when cornering. 195/55/15 seems to be the normal size fitted to the Xsara. They do look quite good with 17" alloys on but you will need a spacer kit to prevent fouling of the inner wheel arch area with that size wheel.
  24. Any tell tale warning signs?? such as the immobiliser light illuminated? ECU fault light illuminated (mind you that may doesn't go out until the engine is running) Can you hear the fuel pump in the tank running when you first switch on the ignition, I believe they can be sometimes troublesome. Glow plugs don't usually come into play until the ambient temperature is really cold anyway.
  25. Lower lights in the front bumper valance are indeed fog lamps and are controlled by the left hand inner switch on the indicator stalk. Interesting to note that the owners handbook tells us to consult citroen dealers for bulb replacement in them ?? why is that then??
×
×
  • Create New...