BigBruv

I think I have solved it. It was the map/boost sensor. On the side of the intercooler, can't say I noticed it before. The small tube leading into it was kinked restricting air flow. Cleaned it and straighted the hose and she works. It's still very sluggish under 2k revs but as I go over she is OK.

OK.new swirl valve actuator fitted, the old one did have a split in it. New intercooler hose with the two butterfly valves on. One of the old ones didn't close properly, stared her up, swirl valve works now, stays in the up position until engine is revved and it drops until revs drop and it goes back up. Took her for a drive and still got no power. I can her the turbo spooling and if you squeeze the top hose as you rev it you can feel it expand as the turbo pushes air through, it has to be something else, I'm at a loss now. Any other ideas anyone..

Still no joy with this, its really lacking on power, just got no go. I have been over everything many times. All vac tubes fitted. One thing i have noticed is that the intake butterfly swirl valve on the side of the block doesnt seem to move. reading up on another thread, its supposed to move when the engine is revved, when the engine is ticking over im guessing that it should be in the up position judging by the amount of suck the vac tube has when i put my finger on it. if i push the rod with the cup on it all the way up and hold it for a second it will stay there until i rev the engine and it will release, but stays down and wont move again. Does this mean the diaphram is split, just to be sure i have ordered a new one from citroen plus the intercooler hose with the vac valves on, citroen call it throttle body.

What I'm going to do in a bit. After game of thrones, I will start a new thread and stick some pictures of the 2.2 HDI engine up, I will circle parts and I would like everyone to name the parts. Hopefully we can make this sticky to help others to know where parts are and what they are.

I'm pretty sure it's not the dpf, I've already had that fault, new dpf and new pressure sensor. With the modified mounting bracket that citroen insisted I had to get. Also replaced additive tank as I was getting additive pump fault code. I really don't want to do a forced regeneration again, last time it nearly melted the engine and would not stop, it froze so had to unplug it and swith off engine. I'm pretty sure I connected everything back the way it came off. I will check again when I get back from work. Is there any way to check the butterfly valves In the inlet hose, just for my piece of mind. Or I read somewhere else that the egr could need a clean, or are they the same thing??

Too good to be true. Before putting the wheels back on I had her running, got her up to temperature, checked for leaks, all good. Let everything cool, checked again, all good. Put the wheels on and went for a run around the block. Took it slow,there was a lot of smoke but I was expecting some for while as the old stuff burned away. I took her out again a little while ago, there is no power at all. It's like driving in limp mode but worse. Every now and then it picks up but in 3rd or 4th it lags down and smokes like a bugger. If I stop I can rev up to 3k or more with no smoke. As soon as I pull away it doesn't want to go and struggles to go past 2k and smokes again. I can hear the turbo spooling nicely, any chance it could be the old butterfly valves In the hose before the inlet manifold. Everything was caked in oil and crap, I cleaned everything best I could before refitting. Any way of testing the valves.

Hopefully last post on this thread. New turbo all good and plugged in. A MUST FOR ANYONE DOING THIS, MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE THE COPPER WASHERS FOR THE OIL FEED. BOTH ENDS. Its a lot of work if you skip this and try and get away with it like i tried. You will loose, oil and a lot of it. Anyone need help with changing a turbo i am now the expert... Paul H thank you for your help on this was much needed and most helpful.. speak soon all.. BB.

Turbo delivered on Friday. WRONG ONE. Due to a mix up I was sent a turbo for a BMW. Now have to wait till Tuesday, but as the wife will be out I don't know when I can get my hands on it. Hopefully they will leave it with a neighbour.

New turbo on way. Delivery for Friday, picked up a recon one for £220 with 12 months warranty. Not too bad considering everyone has been saying I would be lucky to get one for under 500.

Sorry for double posts. Using my phone and it keeps lagging amd posts again if I touch anything.. I can't seem to be able to delete. Down to you moderator or admin

I haven't noticed anything yet, I did wear a bit when I pulled the hose off. I still have it balanced and waiting for a clean so I will check then. Are you thinking about intercooler damage..

OK got it out... It would of been a lot easier if the hub nut undid. instead the whole lot had to come out, once the drive shaft was out the way it was simple.. There is one thing, Manual says to drain the gearbox before pulling a shaft. I couldnt find a square socket anywhere for the drain bolt, so i was just going to pull the shaft out and catch any oil and replace later. Pulled the shaft out and not one drop of oil left the gearbox. Now do i have a box that has a sealed unit or have i been doing 20,000 miles a year with no oil in my gearbox... Dunno. Anyway this is what it looks like when you look at the blades, http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c378/BigBruv/DSC_0017.jpg

You don't need to remove anything from under the bonnet. There is two bolts holding the strut that are inside the arch.just took mine off to remove my turbo.

OK.so far I have got no further.main hub nut will not move, even with a three foot extention bar and me bouncing on the end. So now I'm taking out the shaft hub disk and all. Got track rod end off and just released lower wish bone.should all come out in one. Great fun this is.

OK not going too bad at the moment. As soon as I get the drive shaft out I should be good to go. I noticed that when i removed the cat and dpf, there was a lot of oil going down the cat. I take it this is going to need a good clean or will it burn off ok.. Another thing while i remember, while i was under the car i noticed that one of the bolts for the engine mount was gone. wasnt me.. ooops..

Stuck her on stands, had a crawl. It doesn't look too bad, as long as all the bolts undo OK. Gave them all a soak in wd40 and I'll give it a go over the weekend.

Thanks Paul. I'll have a look when I get back from work tomorrow. I will post up how I get on, or if I need any more pointers. Thanks again. P.S. I'm up to 124000 miles now.

Thanks Paul, This helps a lot. I just need to confirm on the removal of the drive shaft and im good. When it comes out of the box am i going to loose gearbox oil like my old vectra when it is removed.

One thing after another with this car. I was out yesterday, had a complete loss of power and loads of smoke out the exhaust. The RAC man said what i thought, turbo gone pop. I just had a look ,removed the air hose from the bottom and it was full of oil, I have been reading some posts on here about removing the turbo, It doesnt sound too bad but before i commit to doing this is there a step by step guide. i cant find a manual anywhere. unless anyone has a link that will work with bitcomet .. Thanks for any help guys. BB.

Anyone got a link that will work with bitcomet??

OK strange one here.. Driving slowly down the road and the car started to jerk, slow down and speed up if you know what i mean. A few seconds later i had ABS failed and ESP not functioning beep up at me.. When i got home i had a look , from what i could see a rag or J-cloth had got caught on the drive shaft and got wound into the hub, killing the abs sensor and ripping a hole in the cv boot. I replaced the cv boot and abs sensor, cleaned all the crap out, and had the abs codes cleared but still get the error codes coming back.. Someone did say to me it could be the reluctor ring that could be damaged...? Any help.. BB.

I can try tomorrow if i can beat the M25 traffic and get back from work before the brother in law shuts shop. Last time we tried that was when i had the blocked DPF and nearly melted the engine, temp shot up even with the cooling fan on, All lights came up saying stop and the verdict froze so couldnt stop the regen and had to switch off the ignition. If the regen goes ok what next.? What the turbo solinoid valve control fault about, ?

If you get the hazards coming on at startup it usually means that your battery is low

Can't remember what the codes were but it was, diesel additive system. Diesel additive level and turbo solinoid valve control. I know the additive level is ok as I had to transfer it to the New tank. And I know the pump is working ok. The dpf was a new one fitted last year as was the pressure sensor.