MikeLane

"Clean the battery terminals and the battery leads. With any luck that should solve it." ....and smear them with petroleum jelly (Vaseline).

Tried it from both ends but it seemed to hit an obstruction - roughly where the tube exits the windscreen pillar. I'm not sure whether the tube is actually attached to the sunroof drain hole so..... Perhaps one day I'll try to remove some of the roof lining but don't wish to have the car off the road right now! (From the weather forecast it looks as though I'll see whether my "bung" works this afternoon!!)

Oh Dear! After all the recent torrential rain I found I had a lot of water in the driver's footwell - AGAIN! Today I poured some water into the trough below the windscreen and it drained away. Then I poured some into the gulley of the sunroof and it came out into the footwell via the carpet next to the driver's door and from under the driver's side sill near the rear door hinge. So I thought I'd check the drain from the sunroof by removing the o/s front wheel arch liner. Another load of grot partially blocking the gulley in the liner fell out but the drain pipe was revealed. I don't have access to compressed air so I used a garden sprayer to pump water up the drain tube. This too came out into the footwell and under the sill! I've now bunged the drain hole in the sunroof gulley with part of a cork fishing float (can't get small medicine bottle corks now!) and am hoping that the passenger side sunroof drain will be able to cope!! (Didn't fancy taking the roof liner etc. off to see whether the drain tube's disconnected!) Bit of a pig getting the liner back on and I'm hoping that the various plastic fixings (three diffenrent types) won't fall out!

Just for info, the front wheels are slightly wider apart than the back wheels. My car felt "different" after having new tyres fitted as the fitter used his laser tracking device to try to make them parallel so they were badly toed out. Took it back after a couple of days and got the Manager to check and reset the tracking!

Hi there - I've the same model and wonder if your problem could simply be the fuel filter being bunged? Mine's done around 108K and, for a while now I get "risk of particle filter blocking" (usually when driving up hill) and service lamp lit. The lamp goes out after a few miles when driving on more level roads or giving it a blast in a lower gear. Not sure that I've ever been aware of a regen. I should point out that I've never had a "Low ELOYS level" warning and it's never been topped up although it's supposed to be after 75K (?). However, I may buy some fluid and pour some into the tank (before filling with Deisel) and seeing whether this stops the warning. (The last time (around 5K ago) it was "Lexiaed" the ELOYS tank appeared to be about 1/4 full so.....)

I get the feeling that Citroen is now firmly under the thumb of PSA. Looking at newish Citroens on the road they are mainly C1, C3, C4 and DS3. Hardly any C5s (or Cactuses (Cacti ?)). I suppose it's all down to manufacturing costs - hydraulic suspension being much more expensive and complicated to install than springs. So bye bye to individualism! (Remember all those who said that Citroen's suspension was too dodgy - and then along came the BX???)

Hi David - have a look at this. There's areference to a chap in Sawtry (not tooooo far from you) who may be able to give advice. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20425-hydraulic-pipe-leak/?hl=%2Bhydraulic+%2Bleak ATB - Mike.

I note that there is no Haynes Manual for the latest C5 (X7). However, I've found this covering ALL C5s that can be downloaded for £9.99 or supplied on a DVD for an extra £5.99 http://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Citroen/Citroen-C5-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual.html Might be of interest?

"Normal running temperature should be around 85C. If the coolant temperature is at this figure or below, then you need to look at the temperature sensor or maybe the relays." If the temp is higher, could it be the water pump or thermostat?

This is in the Haynes manual (Ref 7 I think). Just bought some axle stands (and wheel chocks) to do my front pads and wonder whether I can simply raise the car to max, put the stands under the front jacking points and lower the car onto them. (The manual says to jack the car up and place axle stands under sub frame....)

Just a thought but does the blower work any better when A/C is switched to recirculate internal air (i.e. block off the external air supply)?

After overnight rain as soon as I drove off water would pour onto my feet and soak the footwell. I poked around through the scuttle but couldn't clear the blockage. I was directed to a thread which said" Remove wipers, Remove scuttle, remove wiper motor...". Having removed the wipers I couldn't see how to remove the scuttle so, after looking up "Wiper Motor" in the Haynes manual I saw that the scuttle is held in place by part of the windscreen pillar trim. To remove the trim: Prise off the plastic caps from each side of the trim. Remove the hex bolts and gently prise the lower part of the trim out of its clips. Now swing the trim away from the scuttle. It's not necessary to remove the trim. Remove the 4 hex screws from the scuttle, lift the forward edge and ease the scuttle away from the lower edge of the windscreen. (You may have to carefully run a narrow bladed screwdriver between scuttle and windscreen to "break the joint" formed over the years.) Remove the scuttle. A trough (and wiper machanism) is now revealed. Rain water is collected in the trough and should drain through holes near the bulkhead close to the vehicle's wings. The passenger side is easy to clear but on the driver's side the wiper mechanism makes access difficult. However, by using a length of thickish wire I was able to loosen 10 years worth of rubbish and then use a vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle to clear the drain hole completely. Dribble water from a hose or watering can to ensure that all remaing grot is washed out. It's worth cleaning the bottom edge of the windscreen and the channel on the scuttle into which the wind screen fits to make re-fitting easier.

Probably a stupid question but could the air filter be clogged? (Incidentally, when going fast downhill, if I take my foot off the accelerator the instantaneous mpg goes to 999 - i.e. fuel supply is cut off .)

Couldn't it be a duff glow-plug?

Have you tried a few minutes thrash to see whether the fault clears? Could be that if your drive to and from work is slow, the particulate filter is clogging and needs to be regenerated.

Topic Closed. See the following link: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22454-growling-noise-under-acceleration/ Mike

Just had my DMF etc. replaced with the (solid) Valeo conversion kit. It might be my imagination but I (think I) have a slght judder under around 1800 rpm if I accelerate. However I can still use cruise control set to 30 or so in 4th gear in the dreaded villages where speed vans hide under the trees so.... Total bill was about £200 less than replacing DMF etc..

Just for interest, Valeo do a special conversion kit for DMFs - solid flywheel. It seems they had a manufacturing fault some time ago. Hope you can follow this link: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.valeoservice.com%2Fdata%2Fmaster%2Fwebfile%2F10123266774CA473BA636D2.pdf%3Frnd%3D93&ei=Tq4iVbvaG8fnaqzggIgJ&usg=AFQjCNHOX7eDUpAE8dx0smMKxZxuGpZGiQ&sig2=g5hdFvZz4mfUHaKZmwnd7Q&bvm=bv.89947451,d.d2s

Hi Paul - just followed your link and the device seems remarkably cheap, less than most garages will charge for running a check with a Lexia. Have you tried one? Is one able to clear errors with it?

Could it be the alternator failing or belt slipping under load? (i.e. OK when ticking over but not when revving engine.)

Oh Dear! My C5's DMF fell apart yesterday - engine nice and quiet after that but no drive! My indie's lent me a C3 Desire"until he calls"! Desire? I think not!!

Thanks for the info Max. One learns something ........

This is very interesting. When I took my C5 for its first service (2005) an "expert" told me that the glowplugs came on and off "all the time" to aid combustion and reduce emissions, all controlled by the ECU.

http://www.powermaxed.com/car-additives/diesel-particulate-filter-cleaner This just popped up whilst I was reading this post. Has anyone tried it and, if so, did it work?