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The pump is eiher a 6 piston or 6+2 piston pump. The 6 piston pump uses all pistons to peform all functions. The 6 + 2 pison pump uses the 2 to provide power steering and the other 6 to share all rmaining demands. 1 piston does not perform 1 function, but if 1 was to malfunction it would reduce the pumps efficiency in all of those areas. with regard to the rear height corrector........there is also a front one that works independently of the rear Some pictures...... http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=xantia+rear+height+corrector&hl=en&prmd=ivnsfd&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=ArHNTfX1IImxhAfCseX8DA&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&sqi=2&ved=0CBYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1003&bih=567

The hydraulic pump on the xantia operates brakes, steering and suspension. late pumps operated the power steering via a separate chamber in the pump, and the suspension and brakes operated from another part of the pump. I tell you this so you understand that just because the power steering may be working it doesnt mean the pump is ok. assuming the front end will go up and down acording to the height control position it can probably b assumed that the pump is able to produce sufficient pressure. With the rear suspension stuck in the down position a couple of things spring to mind as being at fault. 1, the plastic link rod has become detached from the rear height corrector and rear antiroll bar 2, the adjust ment mechanism for the rear height corrector is unclamped from the rear anti roll bar or has indeed broken 3, the rear height corrector is seized 4 the suspension goes up and down, but feels solid with no 'spring'....the rear suspension spheres have lost there gas and require servicing/replacement There are other things that can cause it to be firm, but i would say they are the most common. I dont have too much idea as to current cost of parts but ebay has these links: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-CITROEN-XANTIA-REAR-HEIGHT-CORRECTOR-453PC0750-/380315910488?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588c984158 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Citroen-Xantia-Ride-Height-Suspension-Corrector-Clip-/110683514266?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c540659a

cold weather indicator?.......are you taking about the 'snow flake' symbol, or the area on the dash where the temperature is normally displayed comes up as 3 dashes? If its the latter displaying the temperature as freezing will cause a bleep. if its the snowflake symbol, thats a gearbox fault and nothing to do with temperature

I wouldnt really use mileage as reason to suspect immenant turbo failure.......if it has had regular oil changes with good quality oil there shouldnt be a problem. Something i would do is remove the various small bore black pipes that control the vacuum side and where the 'T' sections are run a very small drill bit down them (rolled between thumb and forefinger)...to make sure there is no fluff or dust restricting the volume of air movement. Just blowing down the pipes doesnt loosen any restrictions that may have built up over time.

Welcome to the Forum.........i cant thelp with your question, but i'm sure someone will pop along with some advice shortly.

Sounds like the Fuel injection relay may be overheating and causing it to drop its power supply..........now i'm guessing it has a relay that is either black or brown in colour about 3 inches long one inch wide close to the fuelinjection ecu. suggest you check power supplies in and out of it both when cold and when the fault has occured it might give some clues. As to the fuel tank vacuuming......i doubt it, but run the vehicle with the fuel cap off to prove it.

For the high presure pump to work the pulley needs to rotate when cranking the engine......is it.....is the cambelt ok? Last time you used the vehicle did you refill with fuel?......did you put diesel in?.....not a silly question.....but a basic check that might save you a lot of money if you have made a mistake. Is the battery in good condition? How long since it was running?

it isnt unusual to have oil residue within the intake system and it doesnt always mean there is a problem. Oil coming from the turbo would have to come from the sump, which would mean the vehicle would experience an oil consumption problem.........does it use much oil? acceptable oil consumption limits would be upto 1 litre every 1000 miles Before you splash out on replacing things that may not be required, remove pipe work and clean out oil residue, check out oil consumption and then inspect pipe work to see if residue has returned. If the oil consumption is good leave well alone

I'm assuming this is occuring after the vehicle has been run for a short while/distance.....maybe a mile and then turned off. If this is the case its probably the fuel heater operating during the cold start cycle......if the vehicle hasnt reached the temperature required for it to turn itself off the pump for the fuel heater will continue to run with ignition off and burn off the excess fuel in the system. This is normal. users likely to notice this......someone getting up early to ge the newspaper from the local shops a mile away......the occurance of the smoke appears as you turn off.

Did it unlock the door you had the key in but none of the others when you used the key?

Any warning messages coming up? I assume its not the speed warning device thats been turned on?......does it only do it at a specific speed?........maybe faster than the country roads of cornwall?.....just a thought

Welcome to the Forum..... hope you get the advice your looking for.

From memory...and looking at the book times i would say that the fuel tank has got to be lowered/removed to gain access.....with a ramp and an empty fuel tank that takes about an hour. Its also worth noting that whilst the tank is out make sure there is no swarf in the bottom of the tank indicating other problems.

What a way to spend your weekend!

Welcome back..... sorry you had to re-register

......................ignore that, its working and let me in.

Well Done.........when you have finished restoring the forum maybe you reset my password for the control panel :-)

http://www.apautodiagnostics.com/injector-removal-service

Alternatively......if you had tried the dipstick in the hole you might have found it stuck out by about 5mm........so you go get a pair of side cutters and trim 6mm off the bottom of the new one......hey presto you can now top your oil to the maximum level. As for the bit you cut off.........well if your checking your oil and its in the last 6mm it would need topping up anyway! With regars to plastic ends on dipsticks, no there not going to do any damage.....on some vehicles they get stuck in the dipstick tube and wont fall out, on others they just fall into the sump and are stopped going anywhere by the oil pump pickup filter

My advice would be to go enquire of your local citroen dealer if they are able to make a goodwill claim on your behalf for the replacement of the springs.........i dont think you will be wasting your time and i expect you might be satisfied. No your vehicle isnt subject to any recall.

Wouldnt suprise me if the electrical contacts in the ignition switch have overheated and thus caused it to jam........had the heater in the vehicle been having a problem? thats ussually the 1st problem people encounter. recomend you take a look at the picasso forum as there is stuff there about ignition lock failures.

the rear door is a simple 2 wire motor......it either has 12v supply and an earth or it doesnt......maybe go see if it has, you only need a cheap multimeter or led light tester to check this.......if you have 12v and earth when the central locking is operated then the answer may well be in the motor faulty. if you think the motor is faulty you can test it before you order a new one by removing from the vehicle and giving it a seperate power supply down 2 wires fro the battery.

ok...... - so the central locking is recieving an unlock signal from the remote key....because the indicators flash - when the key is locking the drivers door they both lock.....but when you unlock only the door the key is in will open.......drivers door lock not sending a signal to the BSI to unlock doors? - sounds like the rear door locking is a separate problem As a cheap first suggestion.........check the wiring harness that runs in the rubber gaitor between the drivers door and car body...your looking for broken wires also do the same at the rear doors.

key in lock and wont work or point and press key wont work? do they lock and bounce back open, does only one doore lock? if you try key in other door does it work/do anything different if you press button on dash what happens? does the interior light stay on? when door is closed?

Last 2CV i saw didnt have a tell tale for the indicators......and didnt need it because the indicator unit creates enough noise to pass the MOT because it can be heard audibly......are you sure it has one? if it hasnt this link might help: http://www.2cvtv.com...rlamp/index.htm a generic diagram can be found here http://www.agua.nu/d...g%20dim-dip.pdf looking at it i would suggest if the hazzard switch has failed the indicators wont work. Think first check would be that the hazzard switch has a 12v feed to it with the ignition off and when pressed gives a 12v output on one of the other pins.