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There is a new update for some 1.6 Hdi models - Download off the internet.

Its a service update , not a recall. Letters are not sent out for this, they are checked when they pass through the workshop, and if required it gets carried out. Only concerns 1.6 Hdi - and not many of them.

I might add that removal and refitting of the brakepads after a clean up is a straight forward task........just incase you have one seized in the calliper.

I wouldnt recommend anyone trying to rmove the rear brake callipers on a C5 as a 'do it yourself' job. The main bolts have loctite applied down the length of the bolts (not just the threads) and as a consequence they are extremely tight/difficult to remove. A recent vehicle to our workshop required a new caliper due to the housing spliting on removal of the bolt.

Think we must have met.......thanks for that :huh: ........hows the rattle? :blink:

Our technicians are given a strict test route, only two of us there are allowed to deviate from it, and thats because we tend to end up on the motorway or taking vehicles on extended roadtests with the owners permission. I work for a dealer where whilst things arn't perfect (they never are) we do follow procedures and only do things with good reason.........there are lots of dealers that are as good.....some maybe better, and some a lot worse. by all means express your views, but dont expect me to just let them go past without comment. As i said earlier.......were not always perfect. One of our technicians decided to use a customers car to go to the Cash Till, unfortunately for him he was caught by the customer...........we get it wrong sometimes too.

A certain number of vehicles within our dealership will be given a quality control check.....that includes a roadtest. If it fusses you that much put a post it note on your steering wheel for the technician to see!

Well seing as you booked it in with a brake squeak........how do you assume they checked it?

Depends when it does it, if its when pulling out of a steep incline it could be normal operation if you have been holding it on the clutch (you shouldnt do that for long periods). If in doubt get it checked by your dealer as it may have a clutch actuator fault.

Must remember not to roadtest vehicles where the seat is too far forward or not far enough back......also musnt adjust mirrors or demist windows/turn on aircon to allow a degree of comfort.............It gets a roadtest......it will have its controls adjusted.......the only thing i agree shouldnt be adjusted is the radio......except to turn it off......but then if customers did that when they got out we wouldnt have to do that either. why dont you go get a life and find something worth having a pop about.

The Eco mode will cut in from 30 minutes to as little as 2 minutes......theres got to be a reason for them deciding on this duration.

Simplest way to provide a constant 12v supply would be to splice a wire into pin 1 of the three way green conector at the ignition switch. An alternative to this would be to splice a wire into pin 8 in the 8way black connector that plugs into rear of radio. Remove auxiliary socket and cut pin 2 - leave enough wire protruding from the plug so you can solder/crimp your new 12v constant supply to it. The cut wire should be properly insulated as it will have 12volts down it with the engine running! Assuming i'm correct this will mean you have a constant supply on your auxiliary socket and a cigarette lighter that looses its power with ignition off. Before you cut/splice any wires confirm they have 12volt supplies to start with using a multimeter (not a test light). when connecting to either the ignition switch or rear of radio do not cut the wire......strip the insulation back and wrap the new wire round it before soldering.......if you cut the wiring and fail to make a good connection when soldering you could end up with your vehicle cutting out. Any questions PM me

Wozza...Slower...Slower.... :D Mine aint slow our kid.... :blink: A nice day out yesterday to west mids safari park and returned 58.5 MPG... :huh: And i was buggering about wiv me Cruise control..(New Toy)... :lol: I aint goin back to Petrol now youff...... :P ... Right back on Topic before i get more Petrol heads after me blood... :ph34r: Where's this KFC geezer then....? ... Inccy... B) Here and thinking about it.....so hold your breath a bit longer :D

More annoying to have to bump start your car cos you flatened your battery

Put simply as far as the gearbox is concerned its a standard 5 speed manual box with a heavy duty motor bolted on to control gearchange, the clutch operated by another electric motor. The gearbox is reliable and as yet the motors also seem to be standing up to the job asked of them. The only clutch actuator i've replaced was one that didnt work from new and one involved in a front end impact (they dont like that). I wouldnt recomend trying to fit a clutch actuator yourself due to the safety implications if the heavy spring inside it should suddenly trap your fingers. If removed, the clutch actuator is required to be set in 'removal position'. and when refitted is required to be reinitialised, along with he gearchange mechanism, these actions are carried out by diagnostic equipment. I dare say that there will be short cuts found to carry out these operations but when you consider that worn syncro's and premature clutch failure may result i would have to ask if it was a worthwhile excercise On the stop start side of things, i've heard of people having problems , but its not something weve encountered. In general its a system that works and seems to do it well........once you have gained confidence that it will restart!

Many thanks, mate - that just about clears it up. I have actually got the JBL upgrade option, and so presumably did the other VTS in the showroom I was looking at. Its used for RDS transmission......they have 2 tuners in the radios and require 2 aerials. As the signal wanders it allows the other tuner to seek a stronger signal and switch to it without the listener noticing. Standard radios will get a split second gap in service as the tuner adjusts.

I assume your remote control key isnt working 1: Open drivers door 2: insert key in ignition and turn to position before cranking 3: press button on right side of steering wheel under dash looks like a horn with a cross though it. 4: lights should stop flashing The above 4 steps need to be done in 10 seconds......if you have a hand book it is reered to in there.....i think its under the section that tells you how to set the alarm with your granny still sitting in the back.

To be honest, i've lost interest in this topic now...........thanks to to those that took the trouble to thank me for the information.......those that didnt and just whinged on about dealer prices.......well you've got what you wanted to know, how you use the information is up to you.....i wish you luck.

Glad i was of assistance......how much did they charge to cofigure the aux2?

OK.....So now you've covered the technicians hourly rate, how much are you prepared to pay towards his training, the telephones (i assume you will ring to book in), the phone call for us to tell you its ready, the car cleaner because have have to pay him too, Water rates and electricity, insurance for whilst we work on your vehicle, a proportion of the rent on the property............i could carry on with this list. What you have to realise is we are here to make money, it may seem were ripping you off, but the overheads of a dealership with service parts and sales are massive compared to a service department alone. So, i dont see a problem charging £30......we need profit to survive.....as does any business

I wonder how much money they were making on the head unit?

I dont think half hours labour is unreasonable, especially as it will probably take the technician longer than that to do it......if he's never done one before. Just out of interest......what do you think is a reasonable price, what would you be happy to pay?

From a different thread If you want the job done go and ask them how much.....i would think £100 will see the job done (including the parts)........and if you leave them with the ipod they will check it works too before you collect it. Personally i think the most you will save is on the cost of the lead.....that may be incorrect!

Depends how much the dealer charges for fitting Chances are including the update of the radio setting slightly less than the cost of an ipod.......was that expensive? At the end of the day its your choice......do you want to create problems with your £12,000 + car for the sake of a £20 lead and some labour. Do it properly or not at all!

I dont konw how much they are on ebay but the Citroen lead is £21.51 inc vat. Surely it would be better to get your dealer to order it, program your set, amd know it should all awork......not order something that may not work.