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Shrewd Move

I forgot to mention, to do the timming belt (cam belt) on the 2.2 you will need a crank pulley "Puller" to get it off and you will also need a belt tensioner guage that measures in "Seems".. Another thought is that if you were to try to go for a 2.8 instead of a 2.2, I do not think the gearbox would match up and if it did, it would probably not be man enough for the extra power. Not trying to put you off, but, best you are aware of what it entails before you tackle it. 2.2 engine code 4HY (DW12 UTED) 77Kw @4000 rpm 2,8 engine code 8140.43S 93Kw @3600rpm

If you are fitting a different engine (ie 2.8 instead of 2.2) I believe you will need the ecu. The injectors on Renault engines are coded by the ecu so you would need someone with "canclip" to programme them for you, I have anumber of renaults, most of them Megane. Two of them look exactly the same but one has a 120 BHP engine and the other has a 130BHP engne, both engines are classified F9Q and you would think that swapping them would be simple, but it is not. Even the pumps are individually matched to the ecu. Also the 2.2 has two different engine types, the adjustable cam shaft type and the non adjustable cam shaft type. I believe the engines are interchangeable but obviously they have different cam belts which you would be changing as a matter of course anyway. If you take my advice you will go for exactly the same engine and, if they will come out (most of them dont) swap the injectors over and the pump from your old engine, that way no programming is necesarry. (HINT _ Spraying lots of release oil onto the injectors and using a spanner on the machined flats of the injector, start tapping it gently forwards and backwards, takes a long time but if you are lucky you will start to get movement and eventtually extraction.) You would be fitting a new cam belt anyway so no hardship to swap the pump, it is timed electronically so you dont have worry about timming marks. cheers

Just checked some online images and it appears that yes, you would be better to drop the exhaust.

You should get the gasket here http://car-parts.mister-auto.co.uk/en/gasket-oil-pan-citroen-c3_lg455_ls4841/ If you need a sump it is here https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Car-Engine-Engine-Parts/Citroen-2002-2010-Petrol-Engine-Steel/B00U1PP6GM Not sure about the exhaust, will do a bot of research, by the way, welcome to the forum. cheers

I do believe a soft reset would have achieved the same result.

Yes, she lets the car release it automatically. Once or twice she has had a warning that the parking brake has a fault, but placing the car on level ground and pulling the emergency release in the boot floor resets it nicely. Not sure what the citroen emergency release is but it has to have one by law. cheers

The renault electric handbrake comes on automatically when the engine is switched off. Other than that, when you pull up at lights etc you have to manually apply the handbrake. I can just imagine people throwing the auto handbrake away if it applied every time you came to a stop in a line of stop start traffic.. Have you tried the Mercedes brake ? what a nightmare. I dont think there is too much wear on the auto brakes, my missus has a Megane that she has driven for about 2 years trouble free with the handbrake, I should imagine the pug/citroen system is similar.

Have you tried to torrent the manual for the car ? I know the usual torrent sites have closed but there is still a way to do it.

Hi AJC525 Just to add my twopenneth. I have had a great deal of experience with the AL4's, most of it bad unfortunately. The AL4 had the problem of a poor valve pack inside the box. These valve packs can be purchased for about 350 and can be exchanged by the average mechanic with a bit of care. Now I am not saying you have that problem as obviously yours is not the AL4 box, but the reason I mention it is because during my escapades with the AL4 I learned a trick or two about auto boxes. If you go to a reputable auto box reconditioning centre, the majority of them have a flushing rig. These auto boxes from a build up of gunge within the valve packs (yes, your box does have a valve pack) and absolutely loads of it lying within the torque convertor which is impossible to remove during normal gearbox oil drain. This is where the flushing rig comes into it. The rig is connected to your gearbox and it pumps auto box oil into and through the box. When you watch what comes out of the return pipe it is quite frightening to see the return flow start off jet black and eventually turn to a nice clean red colour. That black gunge gets spread throughout the gearbox and is responsible for the vast majority of ALL Auto gearbox problems. If you have the opportunity to get it done then it is well worth it, though a little costly when you realise that approx 5 to 6 gallon of auto fluid is used but the result is well worth it. cheers

Hi Not sure if it is a Citroen Part, but it does look like the clips I have seen on some pull up car window blinds. The manufacturers types that pull up from within the door itself cheers

I dont believe so, I cant see it having any detrimental affect on your car. It may have no affect at all, but if it was mine I would certainly give it a go. I have a 05 Citroen C8 and I use the soft reset quite often. On some cars you have to ensure that you have the radio code but then again, some cars reset without needing the radio code. The choice is yours, I would if it was mine. cheers

Ok, lift the bonnet on the car. Look at the bottom of the windscreen where the wipers are. Water runs off the bottom of the windscreen and goes into a trough below where the wipers are called the "Scuttle panel". At each end of that panel, the drivers side and the passenger side, there is a hole with a rubber tube that runs from it and it lets collected rain run away down behind the plastics in the wheel arches. Those holes and the rubber tubes that run off them get blocked with leaves and debris and water accumulates to such an extent that on some models it can be heard swilling about on corners and is a particular problem on some C4' as it destroys the ecu and electrics. Even if you cannot see water in there it is wise to check that the scuttle panel drain holes ar clean, If it appears that water is in there then it is likely that the air intake to the internal blower is collecting moisture from there on it's way into the car Have a glance at this http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?143590 When checking for wet floors inside the car please bear in mind that the carpets sit onto of a substantial amount of undercarpet and the floor pan is sometimes shaped with troughs etc to carry cables. So some times the carpets feel dry when actually underneath things are soaking. If you can, lift the edge of a carpet and shove your fingers as far down to the steel floor as possible to feel for moisture. cheers

To be honest, I am not sure, though an internet search does throw up various mentions of multifunction display faults and non working problems. You could attempt a soft reset of the BSI and see if that resets it, procedure is here =- http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15093-bsi-reset/ Though I am not sure if that reset still applies to later model cars like yours, perhaps someone can clarify.

The manual is here, sat nav system towards the end, - http://www.ukandeuropetravel.com/images/car_lease/citroen/manuals/Citroen-C5-Owners-Handbook.pdf

Hi Welcome to the forum You could have a read of this and see if it helps http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14725-multifunction-display-intermittent/

Hi Gaz, welcome to the forum, yes, the C5 is a nice drive

It might also be worth checking to see if the scuttle panel is full of rain water.

Hi there, welcome to the forum. I'm sure one of the moderators will be along soon to welcome you. In answer to your problem, can you tell me if the carpets on the floor are wet ? When you have the interior fan running, can you smell anti - freeze ?

Hi Lindsay When you say "It does not work", do you mean there is nothing whatsoever or, when you mention the battery not being up to the task, do you mean that it does try to start but does not have the power ?

Hmmmmm. dont we all live with a "Growl" Paul ?, mine 's just took the kids to school. :)

Hi Richard and welcome to the forum buddy, Thats an impressive list of former vehicles, the Audi 80 rop Top would be worth a fortune now. Lookforward to speaking in the future, right now her indoors is demanding I eat my dinner, bye for now

Hi Jon I would hazard a guess that you have a bad earth (or even a bad power supply) somewhere on the starting circuit. That bad earth could be on the battery or even inside the starter motor itself, so it could be hard to trace. The fact that you are holding the key in the start position (which is generating heat on a poor connection) would indicate that eventually the generated heat is burning through the crud on the bad connection and then the starter works. Is there any chance you could get someone to hold the key in the start position whilst you tap the solenoid on top of the starter motor ? Or alternatively connect a fluke to the red wire to the starter solenoid and see if you get a voltage when the key is turned to the start position.. Either a poor connection or a knackered solenoid on top of the starter motor assuming that power is getting to the starting motor at first turn of key.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-CITROEN-C4-OR-DS4-17-INCH-ALLOY-WHEEL-PHOENIX-/222386446402?hash=item33c743e042:g:yREAAOSwTA9X2AJw ??