Rookie2

PS, I'll ask one of the moderators to sort out the two separate posts as it may become confusing for other readers to see two separate entry

I buddy, as I said in the other post, start the engine and run it for a couple of minutes. Switch off and let it stand for a couple of minutes, then pull the rubber hose out which goes to the servo. When you pull it out you should hear the servo sucking air in. alternative is to test the vacuum with a vac guage if you have one. Is your vacuum generated by a pump on the end of the cylinder head or an independent pump driven by the fan belt ? not sure when they changed over? If it is not sucking air in, either there is no vacuum. there is a serious vacuum leak let me know how you get on

Hi Johno My first call would be to take a look at the vacuum pump. Given that you are getting poor braking and what appears to be little turbo power, both depend on the vacuum in the system to operate correctly.

Welcome to the forum Jean Claude,

Hi Paul I found this site very interesting, especially some of the concept cars that never made it... http://www.citroenet.org.uk/miscellaneous/history/history01.html

Just thought it would be interesting to find out where the Citroen Chevron Logo came from......................... André Citroën was born in Paris on 5th February 1878 to Levie Citroën, a diamond merchant of Dutch Jewish origin and Amalie Kleimmann, a Jewess of Polish origin. André Citroën's father died when he was six. The name Citroën derives from "Limoenman" which in Dutch means "small lemons man". The name was changed to "Citron" and then to "Citroën upon the family's arrival in France. Citroën was the youngest of five children. His mother died in 1899 and his brother Bernard died in 1914 in the trenches of World War 1. He graduated as a "Polytechnicien" from the Ecole Polytechnique at the age of twenty two. On 27th May 1914, André Citroën married Giorgina Bingen, the daughter of an Italian banker domiciled in France and they had four children; Jacqueline born in 1915, Bernard born in 1917, Maxime born in 1919 and Solange born in 1925. André Citroën died on 3rd July 1935 having created and lost an industrial empire, having founded a firm whose products would change irrevocably the face of France and the nature of motoring and whose cars would generate a fanatical worldwide following. http://www.citroenet.org.uk/miscellaneous/history/images/engrenages.jpg In 1912, after visiting some of his wife's Polish relatives and seeing a distinctive set of chevron-toothed wooden gears, he set up a company to manufacture double helical gears and thus was born the double chevron logo. In 1913, he took over the Mors automobile company and increased output tenfold. With the outbreak of war in 1914, Citroën offered to increase output of munitions shells and the French government gave him the go ahead; his factories produced more than 50 000 shells per day. In 1919, Citroën started building motor cars at his Javel works. He employed hitherto unknown (in Europe) mass production techniques borrowed from Henry Ford in the USA and within a year was manufacturing 100 cars per day. In addition to employing mass production, he also supplied cars that were ready to drive from the factory gates, cars that were fitted with bodies (the norm was for the manufacturer to supply a chassis on which a coachbuilder would construct a body built to the client's specification), lights, wheels and tyres. Furthermore, he created a dealer network across France that serviced his vehicles and he provided road signs for the French road network. He was a paternalistic employer, setting up medical and dental facilities and a gymnasium in his factories and providing a crèche for his workers' children.

Hi Not sure about the clearance but, have you heard of others fitting LED's to their C5 ?. I only ask because on some "CAN" vehicles, non standard bulbs can cause a problem.

Hi Just a suggestion, it may help. I have a friend who runs his own MOT centre. Numerous times on cars that I owned and other customers cars, they have failed emissions test and have always appeared to be running a little lumpy. At first I thought it was a money making racket he had when he advised that I bought a bottle of "Forte" from him and went for a 5 mile drive at high revs in third gear. Now I had watched the figures on the emissions when the vehicle failed and I watched the figures when he retested it less than 30 minutes later. The difference was unbelievable, but more than that, the vehicle ran far far better afterwards. The Forte certainly cleans the CAT out and consequently probably did the same for the particulate filter. I have since watched as more and more MOT customers have done the same thing and their cars which otherwise would have failed the MOT have passed. Forte retails for about 12 quid a bottle, I have no connection to the company and have nothing to gain by recommending it, this stuff really works and is available for petrol or diesel engines. If your fuel metering has been set up wrong for a significant amount of time then perhaps a build of carbon etc is causing the problems, at 12 quid a pop it might be worth a go. Just a thought. cheers

No probs, come back and let us all know how you get on

Just out of interest, here's a good link explaining P0335. http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content.aspx?content=next_dtc_p0335 Note the small voltage that these sensors can detect and keep this in mind when using an electrical soldering iron on the system. Cheers

No probs buddy, please come back and let us know how it's going, even if it's only so that we, and other members can benefit from your experience of the problem, Cheers

I tried to get the emanualsonline.com download about 6 weeks ago but the size of the file could not be accepted by my paltry laptop. The emanuals guy I spoke to asked me to install a programme whereby he could control my laptop and install it in sections (he asked me not to tell anyone else about this as he said he would get into trouble, so keep it to yourself. Lol). The upshot was, he set it away to download at 7pm, he came back on at 1 pm to download some more, at 8am my laptop locked up and stopped responding so i had to switch off and restart, of course you can guess the rest, I lost the whole lt. Couldn't be bothered messing around anymore, lost my tenner, but learned a lesson, STEER CLEAR

There you go, I told you there would be one along soon Lol.

Hi Only just noticed your post as it isn't really in the best place to get a response. Regarding your problem, if the wiring on the crank sensor was the original problem, then I would suggest you revisit that problem first. Where and how and why was the wiring damaged? Is the end of the sensor clean ? Have you tested the sensor with a fluke ? Is your repair to the wiring adequate ? Where there any symptoms before the non start ? I know it's going back to basics buddy, but sometimes you just have to work your way methodically through things. Let us know how you get on as I am sure one of the moderators will be along soon with more info and directions.

I'm not sure if the newer models have the same pulley damper problems, however, if the pulley is a problem you can generally tell by looking at the belt as it is running. On a vehicle which has no problems the belt, when looking down the length of it, should be running smoothly. If for any reason the belt appears to be vibrating, wobbling, jumping etc, then it is a good sign that something is wrong. In fact, when all is well it is sometimes almost impossible to see that the belt is moving. I would assume that if the pulley has a rubber insert (the damper) then yes, it will eventually suffer failure and quite often this failure is caused by a knackered belt tensioner pulley which is throwing the belt out of line.

Just to bring this post to an end...... It turns out I had a faulty Turbo pressure control switch (the one that sits next to the EGR control switch. Also the cartridge for the turbo that I bought had started to howl but luckily I saw a brand new turbo on ebay for less than 200 so bought that. Everything was cleaned out including the sump and oil pump and under the rocker cover, flushed engine 3 times. Removed exhaust, the CAT and the FAP Filter were blocked solid with oil deposits. The additive tank was empty anyway so I knocked out the FAP Filter and left the FAP injection pipes in place but disconnected the sensor plug located above the injector pipes. I got a company in Bristol to email me a copy of my ECU readout with the FAP and EGR removed. Once uploaded I started the engine and low and behold no lights on. There was heavyish smoke coming from the exhaust for about 3 hours of driving but this finally cleared from the CAT.and the car has now done over 1000 miles without a hickup and without a light on the dash.

Not sure if the speedo is coded to the ecu, I suppose it could be but I have never heard of that before. Though i do know that on some vehicles the ECU carries the mileage and when you change the ECU the speedo registers the mileage of the donor vehicle. Have you tried a soft BSI reset ? the procedure for doing so is listed on this site somewhere, will see if I can locate it for you. Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.). Switch on the side lights through the driver's window. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds. Remove key open & close door test central locking system. Start the engine and complete the system's check.Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items.

Is the smoke Blue or Black ? Blue smoke indicates oil burning whilst Black smoke indicates diesel. If smoke is blue, start the car from cold and run for about 1 minute.then switch off. Remove the turbo outlet hose and look into the turbo, do you see oil coating the inside of the turbo outlet stub pipe ? - If the alloy outlet pipes internal wall is coated in oil then it is likely your turbo is on it's way out, the fact that the smoke lessens after warm up indicates that the expansion of the hot turbo is closing the seal gap enough to hold back the oil. If smoke is black then you will need to get a read out from the injectors using live data, there is a laymans way to check the injectors but the pressures are so high that is you do not know what you are doing it can be highly dangerous and is not recommended. Finally, please remember when buying from EBAY, despite what a seller may state in his advert "Genuine Item" or how about "Original Equipment" etc etc. The seller wants to sell his item and many of them will use whatever tactics s needed to achieve that, the old adage "Buyer Beware" holds true.

I did write a topic on here somewhere about the importance of adjusting the Brake and Clutch pedal switches which are generally fitted to the range. Though most people naturally assume that these switches do no more than just put the brake lights on, the opposite is true, these switches communicate with the cars ECU for a number of reasons, not least of which is to reduce fuel flow when the brake is pressed as the car is slowing down. The clutch switch (if fitted) does much the same so as you can see, if a badly adjusted switch is telling the ECU that the vehicle is under braking (when in fact you may be accelerating) it can cause all sorts of confusion for the ECU and possibly poor performance/ economy.

You are correct, one of the best Citroens built, have had two of them myself and the most versatile car I have ever had.

Had a car in yesterday (Pug 307 2.0 HDI). the owner reported that his turbo had collapsed (it had), in fact the turbo spindle had snapped. Now normally this would mean a lot of time and money being spent on investigation and a major clean up of the cars induction pipework/ intercooler/ sump etc etc. The problem was, the owner had spent everything he had on a brand new turbo. So trying to keep his costs down as much as possible I set about trying to repair the car doing as little as possible but as much as necessary. Having stripped the old turbo off I noticed the lack of oil within it, looked at the oil feed pipe and noticed the oil feed banjo bolt was blocked solid with carbon and dried oil. Replaced the banjo and the oil feed pipe and started the engine before connecting the oil feed. There was oil flowing from the banjo. Connected the banjo and started the engine again with the turbo oil return line open, there was no oil returning from the turbo. I then removed the oil filter and replaced it, I immediately got a good flow through the turbo. The oil filter was blocked to such an extent that it would not let oil flow under pressure to the turbo. I am assuming it was this 6 quid oil filter that caused the catastrophic failure of the turbo. So I guess the answer is to change that oil filter and the oil as often as you can afford, these HDI engines critically depend on the oil and it's quality and cleanliness is paramount. Change your filter chaps, even if you don't change the oil.

I have no doubt that somewhere on the forum it has already been mentioned, however, what Paul states about the oil is vitally important. The amount of damage that can be done by using the wrong grade of oil cannot be underestimated. Indeed, a previous owner of a vehicle having used the wrong grade of oil may have already done the damage, but don't let that deter you from using the correct grade now. For what it costs in comparrison to a new engine, drain it, flush it and refill with correct grade. Just thought it was worth a mention chaps.

Welcome to the forum

II hear what you are saying about small engines, however, I have to say that I have recently got rid of a Seat Ibiza 1.4, 3 cylinder with the PD enine in. It was one of the fastest small cars I have ever driven ! That thing went like a rocket and yopu would not believe it was only a 1.4 diesel, yet it regularly returned 50MPG round town. I just couldn't get used to, or trust, and engine that had it's fuel injectors and their electrical connections, swimming about in oil inside the engine, just doesn't seem reasonable. Lol

By Laurence Frost and Agnieszka Flak PARIS (Reuters) - Tougher European car emissions tests being introduced in the wake of the Volkswagen scandal are about to bring surprising consequences: bigger engines. Carmakers that have spent a decade shrinking engine capacities to meet emissions goals are now being forced into a costly U-turn, industry sources said, as more realistic on-the-road testing exposes deep flaws in their smallest motors. Renault , General Motors and VW are preparing to enlarge or scrap some of their best-selling small car engines over the next three years, the people said. Other manufacturers are expected to follow, with both diesels and gasolines affected. The reversal makes it even harder to meet carbon dioxide (CO2) targets and will challenge development budgets already stretched by a rush into electric cars and hybrids. "The techniques we've used to reduce engine capacities will no longer allow us to meet emissions standards," said Alain Raposo, head of powertrain at the Renault-Nissan alliance. "We're reaching the limits of downsizing," he said at the Paris auto show, which ends on Saturday. Renault, VW and GM's Opel all declined to comment on specific engine plans. For years, carmakers kept pace with European Union CO2 goals by shrinking engine capacities, while adding turbochargers to make up lost power. Three-cylinder motors below one litre have become common in cars up to VW Golf-sized compacts; some Fiat models run on twin-cylinders. These mini-motors sailed through official lab tests conducted - until now - on rollers at unrealistically moderate temperatures and speeds. Carmakers, regulators and green groups knew that real-world CO2 and nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions were much higher, but the discrepancy remained unresolved. All that is about to change. Starting next year, new models will be subjected to realistic on-the-road testing for NOx, with all cars required to comply by 2019. Fuel consumption and CO2 will follow two years later under a new global test standard. Independent testing in the wake of VW's exposure last year as a U.S. diesel emissions cheat has shed more light on the scale of the problem facing automakers. Carmakers' smallest European engines, when driven at higher loads than current tests allow, far exceed legal emissions levels. Heat from the souped-up turbos generates diesel NOx up to 15 times over the limit; gasoline equivalents lose fuel-efficiency and spew fine particles and carbon monoxide. "They might be doing OK in the current European test cycle, but in the real world they are not performing," said Pavan Potluri, an analyst with influential forecaster IHS Automotive. "So there's actually a bit of 'upsizing' going on, particularly in diesel." IN RETREAT Carmakers have kept understandably quiet about the scale of the problem or how they plan to address it. But industry sources shared details of a retreat already underway. GM will not replace its current 1.2-litre diesel when the engines are updated on a new architecture arriving in 2019, people with knowledge of the matter said. The smallest engine in the range will be 25-30 percent bigger. VW is replacing its 1.4 litre three-cylinder diesel with a four-cylinder 1.6 for cars like the Polo, they said, while Renault is planning a near-10 percent enlargement to its 1.6 litre R9M diesel, which had replaced a 1.9-litre model in 2011. In real-driving conditions, the French carmaker's 0.9-litre gasoline H4Bt injects excess fuel to prevent overheating, resulting in high emissions of unburned hydrocarbons, fine particles and carbon monoxide. Cleaning that up with exhaust technology would be too expensive, sources say, so the three-cylinder will be dropped for a larger successor developing more torque at lower regimes to stay cool. The turnaround on size is a European phenomenon, coinciding with diesel's sharp decline in smaller cars. Larger engines prevalent in North America, China and emerging markets still have room to improve real emissions by shrinking. INEVITABLE RECKONING Fiat, Renault and Opel have the worst real NOx emissions among the newest "Euro 6" diesels, according to test data from several countries. They now "face the biggest burden" of compliance costs, brokerage Evercore ISI warned last month.