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Posted

***I did try a search but keep getting the 404 error***

 

To either clean or replace it?.....I know there's two bolts (or torx) behind the head, how do you get to them.....also how are the clips removed, cheers

Posted
If you do not have a Haynes manual, on page 8 of this subforum, there is a post Haynes manual for C5 started by ant7. Within this Shelden has put a link to his copy of the Haynes manual. I do not know about the legality of this but the link does work.
Posted
A fault code reader a few days ago (by the guy that remapped it) that said the egr was faulty/blocked as I got "air polution fault" in the screen at the dash, well that's what he told me
Posted

I am not sure how accurate the views number is, when you look at the names of the active users at the bottom of the page they are things like google, yahoo and names of people I have never seen before in posts on this site.

 

I have not cleaned a C5 egr valve but on a Saab 900 I used to clean it and its pipework each year by a mix of scraping and white spirit/carb cleaner to remove the carbon and oil deposits from the plunger and its seat. The aim was to ensure the plunger could easily move and when closed gave a good seal. I think the reason for recirculating the exhaust gases in to the cylinders is to lower the combustion temperature which reduces the amount of nitrogen oxides produced. From memory, the egr valve should only open at higher revs.

Posted

Was the egr the only code stored ? if it saying blocked it could be that the vaccum supply to it isnt there. You can test it ......find a piece of vac pipe and put it on the egrs little spout and suck on it and realease , you should hear it clunk down on the seat. If you can hear a positive clunk the egr is working .

 

Next ..start the engine up egr will operate at this point to reduce emmissions , the vac pipe that goes to the egr should have vaccum on it ,you should be able to feel it with your finger or put your tongue on it..... ( CAUTION !!dont fall in the engine bay and get your knob caught in the drive belt this will hurt severely) , if not you need to trace back to the solenoid that controls it , the egr control solenoid is on the passenger side bulkhead behind a plastic cover if my memory is correct , it will have a vaccum feed to it and the other pipe is the one that goes to the egr valve.

 

There is a few other solenoids there aswell , turbo wastegate, throttle inlet butterfly dont think the 2.0L has swirl flap ??these have a common vac supply which comes from the brakes vac pump, check all these vac pipes as they split and you will lose vaccum in all associated vac controlled items .

 

A loss of vaccum could be your original fault with you saying its flat on the road , if the turbo wastegate doesnt get proper vac it wont reach desired boost levels ,if you can do some of these tasks we can move on to other areas .

 

Trying to chip a car that isnt running correct in the first place just wont work , when it is running as it should be you probably wont need for it to be chipped.

 

If all this is a bit to much take it to good tech who knows what hes on about and not the "stick a k+n init, chip it up t max , stick some sunbeds under it, giz it another 500 bhp at rear wheels" squad .......like to see them get any power at the back wheels on a c5 !!

 

Stu hope you appreciate this as i type with one finger.......feckin blister now arrrggg feck

Posted

Paul....I've cleaned an icv from a Saab I had years ago but never an egr, to be honest I'd never of it till i got my first diesel

 

Lee.....thanks I'll try that and report back.....and yes I appreciate you using 1 finger :)

Posted
I disconnected a blue connector at the right side on the bulkhead next to a coiled spring type thing near the sphere. It must the egr solonoid (2 pipes come the top of it) i nothced a difrence, not night/day but slightly better acceleration and a bit smoother, so i guess the egr's fkd!
Posted

Hello Stu just dissconnecting the plug isnt conclusive , if the solenoid is leaking vac through it ,it will still leak vaccum through to the egr , try what i said about sucking on the pipe thats on the egr and listen for clunk.

 

Theres other solenoids up there did you dissconnect the correct one ?all the other solenoids have 2 pipes also, whats important here is that we need to know when you test drive it is that the egr is shut otherwise boost will be lost through the egr valve .

 

If you follow the instructions i gave you in the other post we can get to the bottom of it .

Posted
I put a pipe on as you said but there was no suction at all, so didnt bother putting my tongue on lol. I'd be as well maybe just blanking it off, ht's geuting to it though
Posted

Got the same problem (only it's a 2.2 HDi).....sucking on that pipe only hurt me ears and made me dizzy (no 'thunk' sound on release either).

 

Thanks to the above for the tip on how to check it.

 

Gonna have to check it in for the egr removal and clean....no bloody way I can get that off!

 

Bob

 

P.S. Who's moderating these forums? So many issues :angry:

Posted

Stu

Are you saying if you put a peice of vac pipe on the egr you carnt pull a vaccum ? if so this means the egr diaphram is punctured , if so, yes maybe best to blank off with some metal plate , i have seen them blanked off with shaped plates made out of biscuit tins but proper 1.5 /2.0mm guage plate better.

If the egr diaphram is punctured the vac pipe that goes to the egr needs to be blanked off because this will allow vaccum to be lost in the whole of the vaccum circuit , which can effect turbo wastegate control as this relys on vaccum to pull the wastegate into position .

 

Bobtuck

If you carnt hear the thunk as you realease the vaccum it normally means either the egr valve is sticking or there is alot of carbon and cack stuck on the seat , remove and clean out or blank off with metal plate , my 2003 2.2 hdi 607 is blanked and my bitches 2001 c5 is blanked off with no issues , there is fault codes stored in the managment but it doesnt flag the dash managment light on so no worries ,which is good because egr is the black death for engines .

 

I have took inlet manifold off some of the vauxhalls and a 2 inch diameter port is gunked up to the thickness of a pencil, extended oil change intervals and folk not using correct grade oils with no additive packs are another for black death but thats another story .

 

If you drop the top engine mount off on drivers side with a stand under the sump you can pull engine forward so it gives you more working room at the back .

Posted

Many thanks mechanico.

 

Where exactly would I place the blanking plate? (top front of engine, slightly right??)

 

If I have to get that bloody thing off to blank it I may as well just give it a good clean

and try that (pretty sure it's choked up bad).

 

Cheers again!

 

Bob

Posted

I carnt picture it in my head but where ever is easiest to get at it ,aslong as the gases carnt get into the manifold it doesnt matter if its blanked on the exhaust manifold side or inlet .

 

What i did with my womans c5 2.0 L hdi was make sure the egr valve had a good clunk sound first, then i put a 3mm ball bearing in the vac pipe ,really easy .........and if you get any managment issues ,man light flagging for egr fault codes you can just take it back out real easy.

 

What this is about is step by step diagnosis....rule out egr and if its still flat move to other areas e.g air flow meter, turbo wastegate, fuel rail pressure generation and so on , some of it though you can only dignose with scan tools or substituation from a known good vehicle .

 

The amount of times we get cars in at work where the owners have just wasted money on this that and the other trying to fix a running fault that in most cases was an easy fix,and made 1000 times worse by owners messing about with things that wasnt at fault in the first place, knowledge is power......talkin bout knowledge a dont suppose you know about laptops coz mines going real slow????? wish i had the knowledge to sort it ??

 

note to self stay off porn sites that feck my computer up :blink:

Posted

I have a Mitsubishi Challenger, Shogun Sport) which I have blanked of the egr valve, the difference was staggering.

I got a plate from the owners club, dont be tempted to use thin metal, if you can cut it with scissors dont use it. It will end up in your engine and ruin it. The EGR valve allows exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold, blanking it stops that so it doesnt matter how or where you blank it as long as you do. The ball bearing trick only works if the valve is closed, if it is gunked open it wont help, cleaning needs to be outstanding which means taking it off and using a scraper and carburretor cleaner or similar. I changed the EGR on a c3 and the cost was £80 at the main dealer.

 

For your computer, go to www.download.com and search for systemcare free (currently version 4) run it and it should sort out a slow PC. If you really like it you can get the pro version but I believe the internet is about saving money

Posted

>>>>Confused<<<

 

Bugger!.....given that the 'suck test' (careful now) achieved nowt but making me dizzy

(like sucking on a solid rubber pipe...and suprise, suprise, no 'thunk' upon release)

does this mean that I can just block off the egr with a solid plate?

 

....and if so where??

 

>>>>end my confusion<<<<<<<

 

Ta

 

Bob

Posted

In theory th egr valve helps lower your emissions and helps fuel economy. In order to blank it of your going to have to remove it ( 2 bolts and clamp) and with a new one roughly £80 its easier to just replace. in the past when weve blanked the off yo just get the eml light on and the car goes into limp mode leaving you back at square 1. If your mechanic has the right diagnostic equipment he should be able to do a functional test on the egr to see if its working. Just guesing and pulling wires of and blanking pipes off isnt the way with a hdi engine. reading yur original post it could be any off the following

 

Air leak

arflow meter

map sensor

egr valve

intecooler

turbo

cat

 

or maybe a service or just a good thrashing of the engine

Use the right diagnostic tool and youl get the right answer and youl save money

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