Engine Getting Hotter Quicker Than Usual

[RichCliff]

Hi again,

 

Since i bought my C5 (04 plate) in 2011, it would take around 2 miles or so until the temp gauge would start moving and then sit nicely in the middle for the remainder of the journey.

However recently, in line with all the other issues i've been getting (see the brakes and humming noise thread), the temp gauge shows my engine is getting hot a lot quicker (but still stays in the middle and not over heating).

It only takes perhaps 1/2 mile before it is noticeable and starts moving up into the normal running temp position.

 

I've noticed recently an odd smell too coming from the engine, when i lift the bonnet open it's quite pronounced. I've undone the oil filler cap and it's smoking and sometimes the cap is very hot to touch (It wasn't before, or not that noticeable anyway).

 

No smoke coming out the exhaust, no smoke anywhere else except coming out the filler cap (when opened).

 

As it is not overheating (yet - gulp), i'm not sure what the issue is.... but it is slightly worrying wondering why, all of a sudden, the engine gets warmer/hotter a lot quicker.

 

It's going into the garage at the end of the month to have the front brakes done (MoT showed worn, pitted and grooved discs). Hopefully they'll see if the hand brake issue is to do with this and perhaps slightly stuck on. (see other thread). 

 

But i'm also wondering now, if the loud humming noise above 30mph i'm hearing is either the Wheel Bearings, or the brake issue (rubbing) or is it something to do with the engine as the temp issue came along in line with this.

[paul.h]

If the brakes are binding then the engine will need to do more work so would get hot quicker. It is also a bit warmer outside now so this will also reduce the time to warm up.

 

Is the oil level low or the coolant level low so less available to remove the heat and are there any leaks ? Also look at the fuel injectors to see if the injector to cylinder head seals are leaking (oil/carbon around them and possibly a chuffing noise with the engine running).

 

You can also see if the engine fan runs and if the radiator is blocked with anything.

 

If you had a code reader that does live data you could see what the engine temperature sensor was giving to the gauge and seeing if it is reading high compared to the outside temp on starting from cold and when the thermostat opens (approx 90°C). The fan should cut in about 96°C.

[RichCliff]

The coolant is full to the line, and the oil level is just above the mid point between the two grooves. So all is fine in that department.

The gauge on the dash shows temperature to sit perfectly in the middle, no sign of overheating or temp rising. It just rises to that point pretty fast compared to before. I did wonder if it was perhaps the engine working harder. I can't really feel friction there when pulling off or driving but perhaps there is a slight bit of pull when taking my foot off the accelerator, i think it does slow down quicker than usual so perhaps it could be a problem.

 

I hear no chuffing noise but the engine makes a racket anyway due to a knocking noise (yet another thread on here about that somewhere!).

 

I shall see what happens after the brakes are fixed and sorted and report back. Thanks again

[paul.h]

If a brake is binding you may notice the wheel hub area is warmer than normal after a run.

[RichCliff]

The front wheel hubs are warmer, but i never actually knew how warm they were before the problem.... still have the loud humming noise. Longing to get paid now at the end of the month to get the brakes sorted.

[paul.h]

Front ones always seem a bit warmer than the rears so may be normal. Next time you are in a car park have a look at some other cars for a comparison.

[coastline taxis]

Change the coolant as its only got a certain life span. Wont hurt to put a flush through it aswell