3001pv Posted May 24, 2016 Posted May 24, 2016 Hi, I have a 2008 Citroen C5 Estate 1.6HDi (100k miles). Last weekend I tried to raise the suspension and the 40a maxi fuse blew. I fitted a new fuse, the car raised to it's normal level I could hear the pump working, it didn't sound strained. Yet as soon as I drove it I got a warning saying 'Suspension fault maximum speed 55mph', I checked the fuse and it had blown again. I contacted the only local garage which is a french car specialist (I cannot / do not want to pay main dealer prices) - Without even looking at the car or listening asking any further detail they told me that I should see and auto electrician. I tried contacting the local auto electrician, I left a message and mentioned Citroen suspension and they haven't returned my calls. So I am stuck between hassling the auto-electrician, trying further afield (but the car won't go too far before the suspension dies) or trying to fix it myself. I bought a cheap fault code reader from ebay as the car will not talk to the one I already own. It came back with fault code of P1351 - which an internet search shows as IDM input circuit malfunction - most posts on the internet had this relating to glow plugs although there was a comment on one from a person who said he had an earth problem with his suspension and it threw out this code. I have cleared the code and put in a new fuse, the fuse blew but the suspension error message disappeared. The code P1351 is now showing as pending so no doubt it will come back if I drive the car much further. Can anybody help with what I should do next? Is there a relay I can look at? I am considering buying a replacement pump from ebay and changing it, if I do this are all pumps to fit 2004 to 2008 C5's the same? Many thanks Quote
paul.h Posted May 25, 2016 Posted May 25, 2016 A low cost fault code reader will only read engine fault codes that can have an effect on the exhaust emissions. They will not let you check the suspension or other electrics/sensors on the car. For the pump fuse to blow, provided it is the correct rating, it must be taking more power than normal. So it could have an internal fault or a wiring or connector fault. You may need to replace the pump but you could check if the lds fluid level is ok. There are a few different part nos. for the pump depending on whether an estate or hatchback and also if heavy duty suspension is fitted. I believe a replacement pump would need configuring to your car. Quote
3001pv Posted May 25, 2016 Author Posted May 25, 2016 Hi Paul, Thank you for your prompt reply - fuse is correct value and the fluid level is fine - I am going to try the auto electrician again. Cheers Patrick Quote
3001pv Posted June 7, 2016 Author Posted June 7, 2016 Just to update as the final solution may be of interest to anybody with this problem and may save them a small fortune. The auto-electrician diagnosed that the pump was taking around 80amps hence why the fuse was blowing. The prospect of removing the pump was quite scary but in reality it wasn't too difficult. Once the pump was removed I took the back plate off the pump motor and I could immediately see the problem, around the electrical brushes and commutator there was a horrible black paste, it looked like a mixture of grease (from the bearing?) and carbon dust produced from the electrical brushes as they wear. I cleaned this up and ensured the commutator and brushes were connecting correctly (the brushes still were more than 50% of their original length at 100k miles) put a small dab of copper grease on the bearing. Reinstalled the pump and it is now working as it should be. The whole job took 3 hours and cost £32 in fluid from ebay (then add £60 to that for the auto-electrician). I would guess that many pump failures will be caused by the same thing, it is well worth taking the pump out and checking insider before going for an expensive new pump replacement. Quote
coastline taxis Posted June 7, 2016 Posted June 7, 2016 Thank you for getting back to us with the fix. This should be of use to many people Quote
paul.h Posted June 7, 2016 Posted June 7, 2016 I will pin this and add it to the Common Problems topic, item 54. You will probably find P1351 will still be there since the glow plugs might be due for replacement Quote
3001pv Posted June 7, 2016 Author Posted June 7, 2016 Yes, still got P1351 - I will deal with that later, but at least the suspension works now :) Quote
djdaz116 Posted June 12, 2016 Posted June 12, 2016 i am having the same problem with blowing fuses. i am pretty competent at doing this myself but looking for some guidance first. i have a c5 mk3 estate new shape 2009. did you use the lexia to completely de pressurise the system first? and how did you manage to re pressurise the system after refitting? Daz Quote
paul.h Posted June 13, 2016 Posted June 13, 2016 Citroen's procedures for the C5 (X7) do not mention having to depressurise the suspension to remove the pump. 2. RemovingPut the vehicle on a hoist.Disconnect the battery (after putting the suspension in low and the car on axle stands) - there is a procedure in the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic that can be followed. Remove :The front right wheelThe front right mud shieldThe 2 nuts holding the pump to the bodywork (1)The LDS fluid reservoir (to drain this the procedures say to Start the engine.Lower the vehicle to the low position.Stop the engine.Raise the vehicle and support on axle stands, wheels free. Undo the cap to release the pressure, remove the pipe under the reservoir). The reservoir is held by 2 nuts at the top which need removing so it can be removed. Disconnect the pump electrical connectors ( as "a", "b").Remove the protection from the ECU connector.Disconnect the pump electrical connector ( as "c").Uncouple the high pressure piping (2) (on each side). 3. RefittingCAUTION : Fill the LDS fluid reservoir with new liquid TOTAL LDS H50126. N.B. : Fit new seals where the pipes connect to the pump (3).Engage the BHI on its support.Couple up : The high-pressure pipes (2) ; Tighten the unions to 12 Nm.Reconnect the connector ( as "c").Refit the protection on the connector with a new zip strap ( as "c").Reconnect the connectors ( as "b", "a").Refit : The LDS fluid reservoirThe nuts (1)The front right mud shieldThe front right wheelTighten the wheel boltsReconnect the battery.CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery.CAUTION : Use LDS fluid (new). To refill the reservoir -"b" LDS fluid maximum level - 2nd ridge from the bottom of the filling neck."a" LDS fluid minimum level - 1st ridge from the bottom of the filling neck.Fill the LDS fluid reservoir up to the maximum level of LDS fluid "b".4. BleedingApply a pressure of 0,5 bar in the LDS fluid reservoir (using a FACOM 920 tool) - instead of this, I have read on here that if the pump does not prime then covering the neck with polythene and blowing in through a hole in this may work or leaving overnight may work.Start the engine.Wait for the vehicle height to stabilise.Place the suspension height control in the "HIGH" position.Place the suspension height control in the "LOW" position.Turn the steering from lock to lock in each direction.Stop the engine.Check the LDS fluid level - with the suspension in the low position it should be at the maximum height b.N.B. : If the integrated hydroelectronic unit is replaced, configure the integrated hydroelectronic unit ; Using the [1] diagnostic equipment. Quote
3001pv Posted June 13, 2016 Author Posted June 13, 2016 Hi, My car is one of the last 2008 C5's before the shape change so fortunately I had the Haynes manual to go by, but from the description above the procedure is exactly the same. Initially, I managed to get the pump to work enough to raise the suspension to the highest level before placing it on axle stands all round. Then I started the engine and set the lowest suspension setting. It opened the bleed screw for the front which is under the bonnet and lost about 3 drops of fluid - at this stage I decided not to bother depresurising the rear system as the bleed screw was rusted and I didn't want to break it. When I pulled the pipe off the bottom of the reservoir it lost around 4 litres of fluid which was pressurised only by gravity. The pump had a total of four hose connections and the two high pressure pipes, they all came off easily without any significant high pressure fluid loss. After refitting I used a cooling system pressure tester to pressurise the system. I managed to get a good enough seal by manually pushing it down on the filler lid and getting an assistant to pump it. At first it sounded a bit like my stomach after a good madras and several pints, but after the gurgling stopped the pressure remained constant. The anticipation of the job was far worse than the reality. Quote
jaysams80 Posted April 11, 2017 Posted April 11, 2017 I have just completed this very job and unfortunately it didn't work. My commutator/ pump is going stiff half way around, this is why the fuses are blowing i believe. Anyone have any experience of this? Quote
paul.h Posted April 16, 2017 Posted April 16, 2017 Here cleaning the pump did not work but something was causing it to stick, post by jaysams80 http://www.citroen-o...m-fixedkind-of/ Quote
c5virgin Posted June 16, 2017 Posted June 16, 2017 Hello there I too have a problem with my suspension pump, 2009 C5, Exclusive 2.0 Diesel Auto my local independent has identified a blown fuse/link in the wing side fuse box at the side of the battery, which blows when the original pump is connected, when we connect an alternative pump from an earlier model car(mk1), the fuse is ok, with my pump removed from the vehicle I have connected the motor to a 12v supply and it seems to run ok. I believe I have identified that the MK2 C5 seems to use the same electric motor and I am considering trying a salvage part on my original pump, however as my original motor runs from a 12v supply I'm not sure what this will achieve. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Quote
3001pv Posted June 16, 2017 Author Posted June 16, 2017 Hi, Mine would still run, I could change the fuse and the suspension would pressurise, but as soon as I drove the fuse would fail. It appeared as soon as it was the motor was under load it would need more than the 30amps the fuse allowed and blew the fuse. Try removing the backing plate from your original motor and have a look at the condition of the brushes, that was when I identified the problem. The dust from the brushes had mixed with grease to form a paste and was causing a short circuit. Quote
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