Clutch Drag On 57 Relay 160 Engine

[Andylink]

My clutch suddenly started dragging making it difficult to get into gears. It fixed itself for a while but the problem has now returned. Anyone know what could be causing this ? Gearbox clutch and dual mass flywheel where all replaced 18 months ago.

Thanks in advance

[coastline taxis]

Where the cables go onto the box there is a central pivot. remove both cables and see if the pivot has siezed as ive seen loads like this. if it has then get the oil can out and just work the linkage till its free

[Andylink]

Thanks for the reply, the gears engage fine with the engine off. If I put it in 1st gear with the engine off, foot on clutch and start up, you can feel the clutch drag, like its not releasing all the way, the pedal feels ok, and pumping the clutch doesn't make any difference.

[Rookie2]

Needs New clutch I am afraid, I realise you stated you had it done recently, but unfortunately some just do  not last long,. especially if it was not a genuine part or if, as I suspect, the dual mass was not changed and the constant slip of the dual mass wears the clutch far more quickly. cheers

[Andylink]

Wouldn't a worn out clutch slip not drag ? Also seems to be intermittent, its been ok last couple of journeys, could it be the hydrolics ?

[Rookie2]

Ok, my fault, tell me what you mean by "Drag"

[Andylink]

The clutch is not disengaging fully when the pedal is pressed fully to the floor. If you engage 1st gear with the engine off foot fully down on clutch and start the engine you can feel the clutch is engaged slightly and the van will creep forward with the clitch pedal fullt down.

[Rookie2]

Check to see if your vehicle has the concentric clutch, If it has, the slave cylinder will be fitted internaly in the bell housing. If it does have the concentric clutch, look for a small drip of oil on the bottom of the bell housing to engine joint.

 

 

Just checked, it appears your vehicle does have the concentric clutch, it will be your clutch slave that needs changing but unfortunately this involves the gearbox removal. Unlike a normal clutch which has a slave cylinder on the outside of the gearbox bell housing, yours is fitted internally in the gearbox.

Edited April 11, 2017 by Rookie2

[Andylink]

Thanks for the advice, I will check what you suggest, thanks again

[Rookie2]

Just remember, if yours is the concentric clutch, it consists of two parts, the slave cylinder part of it which is inside the gearbox which, if leaking, requires the gearbox to be removed, and the master cylinder which may be fitted to the engine bulk  head or inside the car above the clutch pedal, which may also be leaking.

 

If you look at this kit you will see the slave in the middle of the photo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUK-REPSET-PRO-CLUTCH-KIT-CSC-FOR-CITROEN-RELAY-3-0-HDI-155-160-180-06-/152475514478?hash=item23803fb66e:g:2J8AAOSw4CFYy9yc

 

cheers

[Andylink]

Brilliant, thanks again.

[paul.h]

I do not know how far you have got with this, but if you do not find any leaks you could try bleeding the clutch master/slave cylinders to change the fluid - it should be done anyway when the brake fluid is replaced every 2 years. I have found the best way to do it is by sucking the fluid through rather than pumping the pedal. I use a Mityvac pump for this but possibly a large syringe would work connected to the slave cylinder bleed nipple (valve). Make sure the brake fluid level is not low since the clutch take off is probably about half way up the brake fluid reservoir.

 

This is the procedure from the Citroen service box without a vacuum bleeder:

 

N.B. : For the bleed operation 2 operators are necessary.

Chock and lift the vehicle on a 2 column lift.

 

 

Couple a transparent pipe onto the bleed valve.

Sink the end of the transparent tube in a container containing brake fluid, located lower down than the clutch slave cylinder .

CAUTION : The end of the transparent pipe must be submerged into the brake fluid.

Open the bleed valve.

Action the clutch pedal manually through its entire travel rapidly 7 times.

Leave the clutch pedal at the lower end of its travel during the last manoeuvre.

Close the bleed valve.

Allow the clutch pedal to rise to the upper position.

Fill the brake fluid reservoir to its maximum capacity.

Open the bleed valve.

Action the clutch pedal manually through its entire travel rapidly 7 times.

Keep the clutch pedal at the lower end of its travel during the last manoeuvre.

Close the bleed valve.

Uncouple the transparent pipe.

Top up the brake fluid level to the MAX. level in the brake fluid reservoir.

Press the clutch pedal rapidly 40 times.

Lower the vehicle.

Start the engine.

Apply the handbrake.

Engage a gear.

 

 

Check that clutch mechanism friction begins at a dimension of 40 mm or more between the floor and the bottom of the pedal arm (the dimension is given as a guide).

Repeat the bleed operations (if necessary).