Guest mooro Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 Hi, i have a 2003 sx hdi 110 C5 i had a opp on my wrist and so have been unable to drive it for 3 months, i have been running it for 30-45min every 2 weeks or so it seemed after leaving it for the first 2 weeks the battery was flat so i had to hock up a boster pack and start the car things i am asking (1) should the battery last for more than 2 weeks sitting there? its only a year old and a halfords high power one(2) as the car has not moved for 3 months do i need to do any thing to the breaks or should i be able to just drive it? i noted a little bit of rust on the disc but nothing more than when i leave the car sitting for a couple of days cheers Quote
Randombloke Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 things i am asking (1) should the battery last for more than 2 weeks sitting there? its only a year old and a halfords high power one Yes it should, but make sure you lock the car or the electric motor that is the hydraulic pump will flatten the battery. Get it fully charged ASAP - C5s are known to misbehave on low battery. Quote
paul.h Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 I have found that if I do not use our C5 for 3 or 4 weeks, the battery voltage drops low enough to then not start the car. 2.2 hdi, 11½ volts is too low. Last time jump started it from another car. Service light comes up due to low voltage but goes after running for a few miles to charge battery and then restarting. Quote
Guest mooro Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 I have found that if I do not use our C5 for 3 or 4 weeks, the battery voltage drops low enough to then not start the car. 2.2 hdi, 11½ volts is too low. Last time jump started it from another car. Service light comes up due to low voltage but goes after running for a few miles to charge battery and then restarting. so do you think i should go back to halfords, dose the battery have a fault? the car was def locked i i cant think that any thing would be drining the battery Quote
Randombloke Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 so do you think i should go back to halfords, dose the battery have a fault? the car was def locked i i cant think that any thing would be drining the battery There are lots of things that can drain the battery. Favourite in my book (for not triggering eco mode) is the back up battery in the alarm having become old, not recharging properly and sinking current all the time. Look here: Eco mode/battery drain/wiring issues Please note that you will have to manually select the first page of the thread to see the full benefit of it. Quote
Guest mooro Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 so i used a friends black and decker charger / starter to get the car started it has a battery diag thing which is telling me that one of the cels is shorting so i am going back to halfords to get a new battery on the i drove the car around the block and is sounds like the break`s are rubbing, there is rust on both rear disc`s is there any easy way to clear this off? Quote
Randombloke Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 on the i drove the car around the block and is sounds like the break`s are rubbing, there is rust on both rear disc`s is there any easy way to clear this off? Easy way to clear rust is to make the rear brakes work hard. The best way I every found was to put 3 or 4 incredible heavy concrete blocks in the boot and then the the load sensing valve would apply a lot of rear brake. Take the car for a 5 to 10 km drive. Works a treat. However, check after about 2 km that this is working and that you do not have the calliper problem. Best drive to go for is mixed town and slow country where you have to brake a lot. Quote
Guest mooro Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 Easy way to clear rust is to make the rear brakes work hard. The best way I every found was to put 3 or 4 incredible heavy concrete blocks in the boot and then the the load sensing valve would apply a lot of rear brake. Take the car for a 5 to 10 km drive. Works a treat. However, check after about 2 km that this is working and that you do not have the calliper problem. Best drive to go for is mixed town and slow country where you have to brake a lot. what do you mean by " calliper problem"? Quote
myglaren Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 Get some prices from other places than Halfords. They are usually far more expensive than a decent independent. Quote
Guest mooro Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 Get some prices from other places than Halfords. They are usually far more expensive than a decent independent. yea i paid a bit more when i brought it a year ago but it came with a 4 year warranty so am going to get halfords to swap it under the warrenty Quote
Randombloke Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 what do you mean by " calliper problem"? You'll only ever get the best from this forum if you use the search function. Otherwise, you will end up asking questions that have already been answered. Search results here: Brake caliper rubbing inside wheel Brakes, brake squeal C5 rear brakes Search example for those answers Quote
Guest mooro Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 So Halfords swapped over the battery for free as the tester they used showed up a fault with it the breaks are a dif story, i drive the car for 10 miles or so, pulled over as could smell a burning smell, looked at the back right wheel to see smoke coming up from the disc/caliper! i have booked the car in to get it looked at but think i am looking at new pads and disc at a min, what do you think this would cost? Quote
paul.h Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Most likely the rear pads are just seized in the caliper - mine were and the car was still in use. Pad replacement and some copper grease down the sides may be sufficient. Pads are about £60. If the discs are also being replaced, I would guess about £100 for the pair (need to do both sides). Buying from such as Eurocarparts will reduce these prices. Labour probably at least a couple of hours so I would guess at least £300 for the job at a garage. Since the brake has been overheated I would also go for a brake fluid change.You should also have the calipers removed and some copper grease applied between them and the suspension arms to avoid corrosion between the 2 which leads to squealing and eventually the calipers could be pushed out to touch the wheels - this is a common problem as noted by Randombloke. Quote
myglaren Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 I took mine to an independent (always go to the same guy).He fitted new front discs and pads, removed and refurbished the rear calipers and fitted new pads - £130 all in. Quote
Guest mooro Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 I took mine to an independent (always go to the same guy).He fitted new front discs and pads, removed and refurbished the rear calipers and fitted new pads - £130 all in. Quote
Guest mooro Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 so its costing me £170 for new pads and dics at the rear, which is not a bad price? i am also getting 2 new calipers fitted to the rear and been paid for with my warranty that i have with warranty direct, also the LCD on the Aircon controls has been playing up so this is costing £461 but will be covered by warranty direct toofor £24 a month i got a good deal i think Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.