2.0l Hdi No Turbo Boost? Anti-pollution Fault

[Guest diyjoke]

2.0l HDI, 104k, 03 plate, 110hp VTR. Couple of weeks ago started to get intermittent reduction in power; like no turbo boost. Also noticed a "whooooh" sound; not the kind of whoooh that accompanies any trivial American sporting success but the latter phonetics of an owl call. This sound mostly occurs on overrun but can occur at any time (quite often in 2nd gear(?)). Usually power returns lumpily after a few minutes running and sticks around for the rest of a run of the car but this isn't guaranteed. Lately been getting "anti-pollution" fault and on occasions the power output drops to what seems less than 3bhp momentarily - invariably the car picks up to its usual, acceptable output but the 'fault' indication remains. 'Fault' warning may or may not be there the next day but usually makes an appearance at some point. There's never any smoke accompanying the drama of underperformance and not had a problem at speed but then I rarely use it on the motorway - it's just for out and about and back and fore to work (3 mile round trip.)

Recently the car had its 100k service by a reputable indy (£420 in including the advised water pump replacement). Had the master cylinder changed by them (remembering previous braking faults listed here) £330 and collected it with an horrendous noise which was some auxiliary pulley(?) wheel which cost another £150. Add this to the 3 front calipers (don't ask) at £90 each and a bowser full of DOT and ideally I'd be looking for a fairly cheap solution to this latest problem.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as usual,

Kind regards,

Mac

[Guest diyjoke]

There's more: - now it won't go over about 2800rpm; at all, loaded or just throttling it. Hope this helps point someone who knows in the right direction so that they can help, please.

Regards,

Mac

[paul.h]

Have you checked for any air leaks in the hoses or loose jubilee clips ?

[Guest diyjoke]

Have you checked for any air leaks in the hoses or loose jubilee clips ?

Yes, I've had a look at all the easily accessible hoses and checked that the turbo outlet hoses are pressurising when the revs get up. The 'limp' mode seems to have gone away and the engine is revving freely again but the engine management warning lamp is still lit, and the 'service' and 'anti-pollution' faults are all still standing. Still flat when cold but even with these faults up it seems to go pretty much like it used to - not bad. I know this is typical that once a fault develops (seems to be a speciality of Citroen) that it can manifest itself in many ways and not with any consistency - and quite often more than one thing at once.

I'll check the other hoses tonight when I get it up on stands to fix the locking front caliper again (fortnightly routine.)

Thanks for the advice, gratefully received as always.

Regards,

Mac

[Randombloke]

The 'limp' mode seems to have gone away and the engine is revving freely again but the engine management warning lamp is still lit, and the 'service' and 'anti-pollution' faults are all still standing.

 

I'm assuming that the "Anti Pollution" warning is what you're seeing in the screen when you scroll round to check diagnostic messages. So, the service light is coming on because it's triggered by the Anti Pollution.

 

Have you checked the battery voltage?

 

Have you considered doing a battery disconnecting type reset? Details are elsewhere on this forum.......

 

Are there any wires exiting from the front (cat type box) section of the exhaust? If so, are they connected properly at both ends?

 

Is it 16 valve, in which case does it have a swirl control valve and is that still working? Check for the actuating arm (thin rod with tiny plastic ball joint) still connected, and it could be the diaphragm is perforated?

[Guest diyjoke]

I'm assuming that the "Anti Pollution" warning is what you're seeing in the screen when you scroll round to check diagnostic messages. So, the service light is coming on because it's triggered by the Anti Pollution.

 

Have you checked the battery voltage?

 

Have you considered doing a battery disconnecting type reset? Details are elsewhere on this forum.......

 

Are there any wires exiting from the front (cat type box) section of the exhaust? If so, are they connected properly at both ends?

 

Is it 16 valve, in which case does it have a swirl control valve and is that still working? Check for the actuating arm (thin rod with tiny plastic ball joint) still connected, and it could be the diaphragm is perforated?

Yes, the anti-pollution message is on the screen and comes up coincidental with the service and engine management lights on the dash.

I haven't checked the battery voltage and to be honest I doubt I ever would have made such an association and therefore would never have checked the voltage. I have't tried the battery disconnect/reset (it seems this really is worth trying for everything) I'll have to familiarise myself with this procedure. Bizarre that this is a requirement or workaround for so many things; I should've tried it when I had a flat tyre recently.

I'll have a look for the wires next week when I get the opportunity (in work on nights.) As for a 16valve - how do I find out? By looking for the swirl control thingy or is there something much more simple than that?

I might have a little breathing space until I get the opportunity next week because today I removed an electrical plug on the intercooler outlet hose - made no difference and put it back on. Then one of the guys in work suggested the MAF so without dismantling anything we eventually managed to disconnect that plug - as 10 minutes fiddling about had beaten me, I couldn't even get the plug off. Ran it again and with the same fault/warning up. Switched engine off and refitted the plug and hey presto! it all looks and works fine. Doesn't sound good because the "whoooooh" sound is still there and still predominantly in second gear - I think this was a ringer and the root of that problem may well be the gearbox.

I doubt removing/refitting the MAF plug is the cure but it is strangely coincidental. Is there some spray that I can squirt up the various plugs and sockets (WD40?) for these electrical type connectors that may be of some benefit? I really am hoping beyond all hope that this is it but I know I'm not that lucky.

Thanks for the advice so far, much appreciated - I'll offer any feedback when I conduct the actions recommended.

Kind regards,

Mac

[Randombloke]

I'll have a look for the wires next week when I get the opportunity (in work on nights.) As for a 16valve - how do I find out? By looking for the swirl control thingy or is there something much more simple than that?

 

It's a 110bhp so I'm guessing 8 valve or ATED engine. On the big cover on the engine it says HDi not HDi 16V, yes?

 

So you can disregard the swirl control BS I posted. Sorry.

 

I doubt removing/refitting the MAF plug is the cure but it is strangely coincidental. Is there some spray that I can squirt up the various plugs and sockets (WD40?) for these electrical type connectors that may be of some benefit? I really am hoping beyond all hope that this is it but I know I'm not that lucky.

 

Switch cleaner/contact lubricant from Maplin. HTH.

[Guest diyjoke]

OK, thank you - I'll have to find the big cover off the engine as when the supporting posts broke I put the cover out the garage along with everything else that might "come in handy" (for the last 20 years.) I'll certainly get some of the spray stuff but for now the faults indications haven't returned.

The turbo still seems reluctant when cold. Even when the turbo cuts in it is late and occasionally lumpy (I should point out this is what it "seems" like - the turbo; I can't be sure.) Cold - no turbo; warm - turbo but late and stuttering; hot - turbo and whiney noise. I think I might have to write off all the money spent and get something else - and I'm STILL looking at a C5. I've had 4 CX's, 3 BX's, 2 Xantias (including an Activa), an XM and two C5's and they've all been hideously unreliable but they're soooo good when they are good. Anyway, we'll see.

Are the '04-'08 C5's any better than the earlier ones on the reliability front?

Thanks again,

regards,

Mac

[myglaren]

I have't tried the battery disconnect/reset (it seems this really is worth trying for everything) I'll have to familiarise myself with this procedure. Bizarre that this is a requirement or workaround for so many things; I should've tried it when I had a flat tyre recently.

An absolute classic :)

[Randombloke]

The turbo still seems reluctant when cold. Even when the turbo cuts in it is late and occasionally lumpy (I should point out this is what it "seems" like - the turbo; I can't be sure.) Cold - no turbo; warm - turbo but late and stuttering; hot - turbo and whiney noise.

 

Turbo and Anti Pollution?

 

I would start looking at EGR problems. Do a Search for EGR and make the C5 forum the only one you search. The more you say the more it sounds like an EGR problem, if DW10ATED has an EGR valve.

 

Be worth getting the Haynes manual. It's been out for over a month.

 

Good luck.

 

PS. You are probably hearing a lot more noise because the engine cover has been removed.

 

Even with an engine cover in place with the windows open the turbo can be clearly heard. HTH.

[cardsharc]

Turbo and Anti Pollution?

maybe your cat is blocked

I would start looking at EGR problems. Do a Search for EGR and make the C5 forum the only one you search. The more you say the more it sounds like an EGR problem, if DW10ATED has an EGR valve.

 

Be worth getting the Haynes manual. It's been out for over a month.

 

Good luck.

 

PS. You are probably hearing a lot more noise because the engine cover has been removed.

 

Even with an engine cover in place with the windows open the turbo can be clearly heard. HTH.

[cardsharc]

Turbo and Anti Pollution?

 

I would start looking at EGR problems. Do a Search for EGR and make the C5 forum the only one you search. The more you say the more it sounds like an EGR problem, if DW10ATED has an EGR valve.

 

Be worth getting the Haynes manual. It's been out for over a month.

 

Good luck.

 

PS. You are probably hearing a lot more noise because the engine cover has been removed.

 

Even with an engine cover in place with the windows open the turbo can be clearly heard. HTH.

MAYBE ITS A BLOCKED CATALYTIC CONVERTER