C3 Rear Brakes

[Jeff]

Hello

 

What tools do I need to check and if necessary replace the rear brake shoes on my 3 year old C3 1.4Hdi Desire?

 

I am a mechanic but now retired.

 

I note from the Haynes Manual that I will need to purchase new hub nuts and dust caps.

 

Are there any funnies I should know about when removing the drums/hubs and replacing the brake shoes?

 

What size socket do I need for the rear hub nuts?

 

I hope someone can help with this information.

 

Regards

[Johndouglas]

I wouldn't have thought that you'll need new shoes in only three years. I've recently had the drums off my daughter's 306 to replace the cables but even after 12 years the shoes don't need replacing.

 

If the C3 follows the ZX/306 you'll need a 32mm socket to undo the nut which will be peened into a slot. To undo, it takes a huge amount of leverage since it's torqued to 200Mn. I also found that the nut and the cap was ok to reuse if removed carefully. A 2 legged puller is useful for removing the drums since the bearing is a tight fit on the stub. I find it best to remove the cap and shift the nut before jacking up.

 

It could be useful to have some new shoe retaining cups handy. I find they ocassionally get damaged when removing the drum. They don't always provide them with new shoe kits.

 

PS. Some ZX's and 306s are fitted with Girling systems, others use Bendix. If the C3 is similar, you need to know before purchasing parts. They are not interchabgable.

[paul.h]

On our car 2003 1.4 petrol, (I am told Lucas Girling brakes) the hub nuts are 32mm AF (1.25 inch socket) and with the hub covers cost a few pounds but need replacing every time. The covers if removed carefully may be re-usable when knocking off with a screwdriver against the outer edge. I replaced the shoes last year on about 35k miles but they did not need doing. The drums were badly glazed. One of the shoes has a thinner layer of material which I thought was due to wear but found they are like that new. The rear brakes have always creaked, even after fitting the new shoes and using the grease supplied with the new shoes on the metal contact points. A hub puller was not needed.

 

I made some notes in Haynes since the job is a bit fiddly. There is a knack to removing the lower springs so they do not bend out of shape - remove the handbrake spring which clips around the brake shoe first as in photo 11.4a in Haynes on page 9.10. The front end of the upper spring does not lever out until the rear end is removed. When refitting - fit the rear shoe, front shoe, lower spring, adjuster, upper spring, handbrake spring, adjuster lever/spring, remove the wire tied around the cylinder pistons. Adjust the adjuster wheel and try fitting the drum - repeat until shoes are just about to bind and then finally fit drum - test foot brake before peening the hub nut.

[Jeff]

Many thanks to the two people who replied. The comments are usefull.