C5 2.2 Hdi H P Diesel Pump Leak Fix

[Guest SJE32]

Hi all,

 

First time posting, normally i find all answers just by reading past posts, but not this time.

 

I have Citroen C5 2.2 HDi 02 plate with a leaking pump, its not affecting the running of the car in so much as it runs smooth and does not lag when you want more power.

 

what does happen is that on top of the pump their is an electrical connection that sits on the top of the pump, the plate its mated with then sits on the pump, its from under this plate that it appears to leak fuel. The 4 screws/bolt on the plate are solid none are loose, so I think it must be a gasket of some sort under the plate top.

 

Has any one got any ideas.

 

The image is not mine but it is of the same type of pump.

 

pump

 

 

any help pointers or solves would be super

 

 

 

thanks all

[Guest woodywoodpecker]

Hi mate people say you can;t get seals for these pumps but this place sells all the seals to rebuild this pump have a look here, give them a call.

http://www.darwendiesels.com/common-rail-spare-parts/detail.cfm?id=9886

[Guest SJE32]

Hi mate people say you can;t get seals for these pumps but this place sells all the seals to rebuild this pump have a look here, give them a call.

http://www.darwendiesels.com/common-rail-spare-parts/detail.cfm?id=9886

 

 

Thank you for your reply. I will give them a call Monday and make sure I have the pump number beforehand.

 

I don't suppose you happen to have a diagram of the pump insides ?

 

regards

[Guest SJE32]

Just seen I put 2.2 its a 2.0 liter version SX Hdi

 

sorry.

[Guest SJE32]

Hi mate people say you can;t get seals for these pumps but this place sells all the seals to rebuild this pump have a look here, give them a call.

http://www.darwendiesels.com/common-rail-spare-parts/detail.cfm?id=9886

 

 

Hi

 

I called them today, spoke to a fellow called Lee and have ordred seals for £15.70

 

links are to images of the parts needed and Pound N settings

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/mht51E41.gif

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/blowup.png

 

the pdf file is at

 

Darwins pdf file

 

I hope this helps others.

 

This type of pump also fits

 

Citroen C5,C8,Evasion,Jumpy HDI 98 kw Fiat Scudo,Ulysse 2.0 JTD 80/96 kw Lancia Z 2.0 JTD 80 kw Peugeot 406 , 607,806,807, PeugeotExpert 2.0 HDI 81/98 kw

 

but not all have the shut off on top of the plate by the id plate, my type is a CP1.

 

Declaration

 

Any info given above is only what I have found out by searching and asking both here and other forums, and by ringing around.

 

the work should only be done by a qualified person, any attempt by unqualified persons may do more damage than before, and I can not be held responsible for it.

 

The Np setting is from a qualified source.

[paul.h]

The units you are using for the torque settings of the screws are a bit odd mixing SI and imperial units - N - Newtons being SI and pounds being imperial. Normally see Nm for SI torque values and lb.f.ft for imperial values. 25 Nm is about 18 lb.f.ft.

[Guest SJE32]

The units you are using for the torque settings of the screws are a bit odd mixing SI and imperial units - N - Newtons being SI and pounds being imperial. Normally see Nm for SI torque values and lb.f.ft for imperial values. 25 Nm is about 18 lb.f.ft.

 

 

Well word for word over the phone was "...25 Newton meter for the torx screws..", I am no expert when it comes to such, thats why I said what I did at the end of my post.

 

After ringing them back again the check, they confirm that it is 25Nm.

 

image has been corrected

[Guest SJE32]

Update.

 

After changing the seal "O" Ring in the centre it still leaks so it's off with it again to change the 4 rings at the bleed nipple which is set into the head surface.

 

All photos are of the unit, and in picture

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/IMG_0114-1.jpg

 

You can see on the top surface the nipple in question. There are 4 "O" rings on this nipple 2 are under it and the other two are in the top face plate.

As shown in the diagrame. No's 7

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/blowup.png

 

The black "O" ring is the what I should have changed as well as its white ring which sits with it.

On the underside of the top plate you can see two rings, on is the steel ring, when you clean the area it is very easy to miss this as it falls out so be aware.

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/IMG_0115.jpg

 

I did not change these as I did not think it was the problem, now in hind sight I wish I had done.

 

The other parts are here, including the main seal ring.

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dunstonuk/C5/IMG_0116.jpg

 

From start to finish it took me from 10 in the morning till 4 in the afternoon to take it all out and put it all back and running, the leak is still there, however its far less than it was.

 

On another note it was very difficult to get the Main "O" seal to sit in place when putting the face plate back on, i solved this by using a cotton thread as a lasso around the top face place and holding the "O" seal in place until it was almost down and removing it as it sat on the base plate.

Once I have done all this again in the New Year I will post back what was done and if it worked or not.

 

Happy New Year to you all.

[paul.h]

A dab of grease can sometimes hold bits in place when assembling. Some obvious things which I am sure you have done - fasten the top bolts down diagonally to make sure the top is fastened down evenly on the large seal (like a cylinder head), the photo of the underside of the top looks as if it is before cleaning up/refitting but make sure the seating area for the large seal is cleaned out and the flat top/body joint surfaces are cleaned of surface corrosion with a flat file so this does not prevent the top fitting flat.

 

Did you find anything that would have caused the leak such as any damage to the seals like perishing/going hard/swelling/cuts or maybe corrosion that has lifted the top slightly (like the rear brake calipers) ?

[Guest SJE32]

A dab of grease can sometimes hold bits in place when assembling. Some obvious things which I am sure you have done - fasten the top bolts down diagonally to make sure the top is fastened down evenly on the large seal (like a cylinder head), the photo of the underside of the top looks as if it is before cleaning up/refitting but make sure the seating area for the large seal is cleaned out and the flat top/body joint surfaces are cleaned of surface corrosion with a flat file so this does not prevent the top fitting flat.

 

Did you find anything that would have caused the leak such as any damage to the seals like perishing/going hard/swelling/cuts or maybe corrosion that has lifted the top slightly (like the rear brake calipers) ?

 

When I spoke to the folks that sent me the seal kit, they were quite clear about the NONE ue of greases or any type of gasket seal on the two surfaces, and also about flat filing or sanding the heads as they are micro tolerances used and also the chances of particulates entering the system.

Yes the heads were cleaned up before reassembling, but no abrasive action was used, I will post up a photo or two of the head after state next time.

 

 

I did gind that the gasket (1) was very, hmm flat in compasion to the replacement. but nothing more that that, I still suspect it to be the "O" Rings (7's) to be the culprit behind it all, but only the next refit will tell.

[Guest womble]

Brave man, attempting such a repair, don't think I would have the bottle and certainly not the eyesight to do such a thing nowadays!!!

 

Always remember the universal torque setting from my days as a plant fitter with British Coal.

 

"Tighten until the thread strips or the bolt snaps then back-off by half a turn" B) :lol: :lol: Not reccomended

[Guest SJE32]

Done and dusted.

 

Had it apart again yesterday, the problem was indeed the 4 seals (7) and the fact that they had split in the base, the black "O" sits atop a white nylon ring, so as the diagram shows the bleed bypass nipple has the 4 seals, it was the seal in the base part that’s was split.

 

Cleaned of the whole area again, I did not use and 3rd party sealants when putting it back together but I did use a blob of grease to keep the large "O" ring from falling as the top was offered back to the main unit.

 

I then put it all back into the car, and cross all limbs and fingers as i started it up.

 

And "OHH YES" no leaks.

 

Would I do it again, well considering a refurbished pumps are around £240 quid, and the seal kit with vat and delivery was £19, yes I would, and taking the bits off the C5, as long as you approach it like a cam belt change you should not really go wrong.

And I am NO mechanic at heart, just read a lot and do stuff I feel I can confidently do.

It Beats citra-ripp-off price of £980 before vat and fitting any day.

 

 

Thank you all for your replies tips and help. I hope this post helps others as well.

[paul.h]

Pleased it has worked, and thanks for the excellent posts, should help the rest of us.

[Guest womble]

Nice one SJE32,

 

The first time you pull something apart and put it back together is probably the worst, Will it/Wont it????, second time around and you have already experienced the pitfalls so know what you are up against.

 

I dare bet money that you did the job one hell of a lot quicker when you did it again as well!!

 

As to getting flat surfaces, In days gone bye we used to use surface plates, an old mirror or sheet of plate glass, grinding paste or very smooth "wet and dry" abrasive paper and engineer's blue to generate absolutely flat surfaces, check and a clean up with parraffin and lint free rags afterwards.

 

That was on engine components and hydraulic valve assemblies etc used on heavy earthmoving plant.

 

Another tip is that some rubber components, ie "O" rings etc are prone to attack by mineral oils and a basic vegetable oil can often be used to good purpose.

[coastline taxis]

Think this should be pinned as its a very clear guide with pics for a job thats well within the scope of the d.i.y.er

[Guest SJE32]

Think this should be pinned as its a very clear guide with pics for a job thats well within the scope of the d.i.y.er

I would be Honoured if it was pinned.

 

Regards to all.

[Guest womble]

I would be Honoured if it was pinned.

 

Regards to all.

 

You are on a roll now!!!!

 

Can't stop there, keep us posted with your next repair/accomplishment

[Guest SJE32]

Hello all again

 

Update, so far no leaks has returned, so it is fixed.

 

Thank you all again.

[paul.h]

This problem has appeared again on the forum so now I am a moderator I have been able to change the title a bit and pin it. The link to Darwen Diesels for the parts also still works.

[aspire_helen]

I think it should be emphasised that there is no filter between the pump and the injectors. The smallest piece of debris/dirt can block an injector and even cause an injector to stick open causing engine destruction. The

Utmost cleanliness is critical. Hence the use of any sealant, grease, abrasive, filing, grinding etc should be avoided. Components should be thoroughly rinsed in clean fuel and not wiped dry. Use only lint free cloths and cotton buds where unavoidable.