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Posted
I have a citroen Xsara 2001 (Not Picasso) 5dr, My drivers side elect window has stopped working, if we slam the door a few times, it sometimes works fine for a while then the fault appears again, when it fails no there is no indication (noise) that it is trying at all, it doesnt appear to be sticking, do you think I need a new motor/mechanism for it? or can someone kindly offer some advise? Thank you
Posted

do you think I need a new motor/mechanism for it?

 

Before you do that, check the switch. Also look at the wiring in the rubber cover below the door hinge. With the constant opening and closing, they're prone to damage.

Guest xsararab
Posted
Definetley the wiring in the rubber cover below the door hinge I had same problem pulled the rubber cover back and there was a number off broken wires.
Posted

Definetley the wiring in the rubber cover below the door hinge I had same problem pulled the rubber cover back and there was a number off broken wires.

 

 

Thanks, I will have a good look there at the weekend.

TG

  • 3 years later...
Posted

 

Definetley the wiring in the rubber cover below the door hinge I had same problem pulled the rubber cover back and there was a number off broken wires.

 

Thanks, I will have a good look there at the weekend.

TG

 

I i know its an old thread, but did you find the fault as I have a door lock fault drivers side, I've checked the wiring under that cover but all is fine.

joe.

Posted

Hi there,

when I try to unlock the door either with the key fob or the door switch, the door locks then immediately unlocks itself.

I have looked into the cables between the doors for any breaks, but can't find any at all.

 

and now, the fuel gauge is starting to play up as well, sometimes showing empty, but taking less than 30lts to fill or showing half a tank and running out and showing completely / being empty and when 20lts fuel put in then showing over half a tank.

 

I know ppl joke about French electrics, but I'm starting to believe them...

Posted

It sounds as if the fuel tank needs a new level gauge inside the tank. They can wear over time so when the level is at the worn part of the gauge it fails to show anything. If you look on the eurocarparts site it will give you an idea of the parts cost. Depending on the car, most give access to the fuel gauge under the rear seat through a rubber cover to the tank.

 

If the doors immediately unlock when trying to lock them, it means one of the doors/boot is not fully closed, or is not being seen as closed. I think there may be a sensor in each lock that indicates if that door is closed. I am not sure about this, but you could try each door/boot lock by using a screwdriver to close that lock (push the bar in to the lock hook) but whilst keeping the door/boot open. Unlocking will release the screwdriver. This may indicate where the problem is. Or you may get a message on the dash which says which door is not closed. If the locks seem to work as normal then it may be the door/boot catch needs adjusting so it can close.

Posted

Changing the fuel level sender unit seems easy enough.

 

- Lift the rear seat cushion,

- remove the round rubber/plastic cover and you will see the unit,

- if a petrol engine do the work outside, disconnect the battery, do not have any ignition sources nearby, keep the car doors open so petrol fumes will not build up, keep the old unit outside until any petrol has evaporated from it. All precautions so you do not ignite any petrol fumes. Diesel has a high flash point so there is little risk of igniting it.

- disconnect the electrical connector and the fuel lines (there may be a button to push to release these) from the unit,

- note the position of the unit markings against ones on the tank for when refitting, undo the large locking ring (a tool may be needed for this to grip it such as an oil filter removal tool or a u shaped bar), lift out the unit in to a bucket to catch any fuel drips and recover the seal (a new one may be needed). Cover the hole in the fuel tank if it will be a while before fitting the unit back.

Posted

To check it, you will need to put a meter across the electrical terminals and then move the level float to see if it gives a resistance signal across the full range of movement - if not it will need replacing. But you can do this check without removing it with different amounts of fuel in the tank, particularly when the gauge is not indicating.

Posted

That's what we thought, we have ran the car dry a few times and put in varying amounts, but get different readings on the same amounts. Ie put in 20lts and sometimes it doesn't even turn off the fuel warning light, the next time it jumps to half a tank, totaly confusion...

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