coastline taxis

Yep id be doing what john suggest and replacing the comm unit

No the pump wont need coding in as theres just 1 wire that goes to a stop solenoid on the back of the pump. When you say it dosnt have a ecu do you mean the main engine ecu or do you mean something else. without a main ecu the engine will never start and you could be buying a pump for nothing

Definatley not a diy job as the tools that are requred are immense. the heads normally warp on thes if driven after the gasket has gone. but the biggest problem that John has mentioned is the injector,s sticking in and for a firm to come and get them out is around the £250 area. Then the price of the new parts (possible second hand cylinder head ) timing belt, tensioner, guides, water pump, antifreeze, oil, service parts and replacement injectors and the labour cost often make it more viable to just sell it spares or repairs or look at a second hand engine sorry for the bad news. p.s I have removed your registration mark and most of your vin from your posting just to be on the safe side

depending on the make of the aftermarket stereo your putting in some cross-over leads are available which will allow the steering wheel controls to be used. again depending on the model a diagnostic maybe required as your car has the canbus sytem and will need to be told that the stereo,s have been swapped or the ecu will be waiting for the original stereo to send a signal back to the ecu

they are a 1 piece bearing so without a 10 tonne press your going to be wasting your time. Bearings are around the £20 area from discount stores and any local garage should charge around £50 for doing it as its is a straight forward job to do

id go with clutch judder

Glad your sorted. anymore info would be apriciated as software upgrade,s dont come onto the forum much.

Hi what size engine is it and what make of pump

1st Tell him to go to live data with his diagnostic equip then straight into injection adaptation and see what the 4 injectors are doing. 2nd check all your air/vacum pipes for leaks/splits. 3rd do as paul suggested and post the fault codes on here then you can get a more specific answer

try checking/reseting you steering angle 1st and your comm unit 2nd before you start replacing ecu,s

if your going for the 20k servicing then youl need fully synthetic 5w30 oil that conforms to long life 2 specs

2003 windows wernt bonded in (apart from windscreen) and glass and rubber can be bough from any supplier

There are a couple of differenced hence the different part no,s . but at 2003 bog standard c5 any comm unit will go on and not be a problem

check the fan belt tension aswell as pauls suggestions

not sure but i think theese boxes have paddles in them to splash the oil around and the slightest bit under or over the correct level causes the trouble your having. try draining and refilling to correct level and use reverse switch to put oil in

id be going for fully synthetic 5w30

very strange one this. places to start would be check and clean all the earths in the engine bay and general check of wiring for any loose mult plug,s get heater resistor pack checked get outside temperature sensor checked. have you got an original stereo in or a aftermarket

legal software updates are available form the dealers only. there are some bit torrent siteswere you can get software but you havnt got a clue what your uploading into your ecu and that coupled with a cloned lexia sound like it could go wrong big style. Have you priced the dealers for the update

its not really a diy job as they are LED,s soldered into the circuit board

youd have to leave the van overnight as the symptoms only appear 1st thing so thats when they need to scan it

check to see that the starter is turning engine over fast enough. you need at least 260 rpn for engineto fire up

above the battery there is a black plastic oblongish shape piece of plastic that houses the ecu/heater plug relay and the fuseboox. remove these and the plastic housing 2 x 10mm bolts and underneath it you see basicly a square metal block with brake pipes going into it and thats your man

ah its a c5 sorry i looked at the name and thought it was a xsara. John is correct about the front struts. the rear seals arnt worth trying to change as new rear struts can be bought for £100 at french and italian parts

youd get a management light on if it was your dpf. if you have acsess to diagnostic tool put it on and go to live data then see what signal the crankshaft sensor unit is sending to the ecu.

you dont realy change the seals anymore you just get new units so youl be wanting 4 new shockers. as for the brakes it could quite possibly be the hydraulic oil from the rear shockers and just need a clean up. you would however need to check the brakes 1st just tomake sure its not a brake leak