coastline taxis

just regular servicing and fully synthetic oil. itl do 3 to 400k no problems at all without the need to alter anything. if yours is a mk2 then the only pain youve got is replacing the sidelight bulbs

in 9 out of 10 cases when the pedal starts vibrating it a good sign that there a problem with the clutch. its common practice now to just replace the whole clutch unit also dont be suprised if they come back to you and say the dual mass flywheel has gone aswell as this can only be checked with the gearbox out.

like the fact youve left the radio/casette in. nice car and a few more pics would be apreciated

Think the only real fault on the c4 was the air bag suspension. its all been sorted and changed now so wont be a issue for you. itl run perfect for you because its a citroen

have you got all the multiplugs in. if you have then have you checked the earth going to the set. If all ok then i would say the radio itself is goosed. try a aftermarket 1 and see if that works

your question is a bit confusing. you have a problem with your car engaging gears. please supply more info engine size/fuel/only when hot/cold and exactly what happens

change your AIT sensor or check the wiring going to it for breaks of chffing

dpf are so easy to clean on them it just splits in 2. and its the filter in the oil feed pipe that needs either throwing away or cleaning regulary

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121597500942?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D121597500942%26_rdc%3D1 we use these and no problems to date with them

depending on the year and type of box in it it might not have one

if youve got a 1.6hdi and use ANYTHING OTHER than low saps fully synthetic oil your heading for trouble with your turbo. google 1.6 hdi turbo trouble. also remaping a 1.6 for extra bhp isnt a good idea as the turbo wont take it. the 1.6 is a good economical engine when serviced correctly and in a small car but is a c5 it has a lot of weight to pull around so the turbo does all the work. Also a good flush every oil change and once every 2 year pull the sump and turbo oil feed pipe off and give it a good clean out. youd be a fool to ignore john,s or mike,s advice regarding the oil

youd be better off paying a few pounds for a ball joint splitter it will make a easy job a absolute doddle. theres no pitfalls or problems to be aware of either

basicly its down to weather you have a 90 or a 11o bhp. and were reverse is as the 110 has a reverse lock cable on the side of the gearbox and the 90 dosnt

your buying a 20 year old car with a auto box with 147k on it. this is a borderline classic car that will need looking after. and cant be expected to be 100% reliable. My main concern would be the auto box as it must be comming to the end of its life and will be a specilast job to get overhauled.

Local breakers yard maybe a better/cheaper option

youl get another 10 year out oof it yet.

It would think that it would all be down to the spec level and what is activated in the ecu/bsi units otherwise some or all of the buttons on the replacement sterring wheel might not work. Although a lexia session might be able to rectify it but have never done one so not 100% sure

its basicly a big turkey baster filled with a blue special chemical. you place it in the water resevoir and if theres any combustion gasses in there it turns green so you no the headgasket is leaking

if you feel up to it do a proper right up and well pin the topic for other members

the exclusive is always a nice spec. youl enjoy it

60 plate is 5 years old so again get a sniffer test done. your symptoms are the same as a c5 we just done, cylinder head was warped

when you say it wont start do you mean that the engine turns over but wont fire up or that the engine wont turn over at all. When was it last serviced and have you recently had any work done to the car

can you be a bit more prcise with your posting please. im not fully understanding what it is you want to do

It would probally be more beneficial for you to get a haynes manual as it covers every aspect of your car. 1 remove the wheel 2 remove the 2 torx grub screws securing the disc to the hub (next to wheel nut holes) 3 remove caliper 4 remove caliper carrier 2x bolts 4 pull disc off. if stuck hit with a big hammer to shock it. 5 apply loads of copperslip on the flange that the disc sits on and reverse above procedure

Please keep us informed on this as it looks like a problem that hasnt been discussed before