coastline taxis

​if you look were the lever is connected to the seat youl see a very poor design. you can either reconnect it by literally pushing it back in or you can unbolt seat and turn it upside down and do it that way

Theres no other way to test it. The garage that told you to use a 2nd hand dmf and not even change the clutch want shooting for it. false economy all the way

paul has made some good points here. click on this link and on the right the bottom one is the fuse box and the bsi unit is the top right http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C4-2-0-HDI-06-JDS-REF-611-ECU-SET-KIT-96-633-841-80-9663384180-FREE-P-P-/231849572591?fits=Model%3AC4&hash=item35fb4fb8ef:g:m5cAAOSwmfhX77cY

If you buy a new bsi from citroen then with programing it can be fitted to your car. If your going 2nd hand then you will need the key/ecu/bsi/and locks from donor car. Or try BBA remain as they might be abl to repair your bsi

left hand side of your engine just above the fan belt. it has 2 x big rubber hoses conecting it. im thinking egr or a faulty crank sensor

you cant compress water and a diesel needs compression to ignite were a petrol dosnt, so the clearences are a lot finer. be very very carefull what your doing as you could bend a piston connector rod and require a engine strip down

when the car is vibrating is the engine jumpine around. Most start faults with the 1.6 are down to the egr valve. when it does it next unplug the egr multiplug and see what happens. It will put the mil lamp on but you can clear it later

when the bulbs blow what happens to them. I.E do they go white/silver or a little dark patch on the glass as they all point you in a direction of the fault depending on how they blow

if your pedal is going hard and not stopping the car the id be checking the pads for signs of glazing. if the pedal goes to the floor then check the slide mounts on the front calipers to see if they have siezed. also the self adjusters on the rear for the handbrake are very prone to failing and give the symptoms you describe. Start by checking both front slidemounts as its free and will just cost you grease to put right next check the padssee if the disc side is glazed. then get back to us b4 the next stage

Thats the trouble with a maf they dont always throw a code up. do you no anyone with a 1.6 that you could try there maf on your car

Anyone not sure about buying a c5. Well ive just had a little break and we went to see a movie called Collide . A mk1 c5 is used in it and you need to see the damage the car takes and still runs its unbelievable. I was expecting a sphere or a pipe on the suspension to burst on 1 scene but no it just kept on going. If you watch the damage it would be impossible to recreate it on multiple vehicle so its definitely the one car used .

Love these vans and think they look great. will be following any posts on this

Chances are your still using the original lds fluid at a 180k. Fluid change and greasing the ride height adjuster connector rods is the only service requirements on the suspension other than that it is a as and when needed system. So if it isn't broke than just leave it

Think your clue here is " major fuel leak" When was the fuel filter last changed. Also a multi meter will tell you if the pressure sensor is working or not before you waste money buying a new one. If you haven't got a multi meter then any auto electrics should be able to check it in situ for you and really only takes about 3 minutes to check so cost should be low ( we do it for a packet of biscuits). The trouble with ignoring pollution faults iis that they can clog your dpf filter up which in turn stops the engine from getting rid of spent gases

Air in the fuel lines is perfectly normal NOW. Yes it goes against every thing i was ever taught about diesels in that there should be no air in a diesel line But things have changed. At the front of the engine next to where the egr pipe goes into the throttle body (big chunk of y shaped plastic). Check inside of there for oil and gunge and clean it out also very carefully and gently press the round flap ( old butterfly type valve) for resistance from the start. If oil is present then give the intercooler a quick drain by taking the bottom pipe off and leaving overnight to drain any excess oil out. Also check vacuum pipes for splits and leaks to the throttle body. The throttle body controls the air and smooth running and most misfires and running issues at low revs are here

sounds like its your maf. I know you say that youve replaced it but if its a none original then basicly there chit. the maf takss the air temperature on start up and adjust fuel . then as engine warms up the ecu takes the actual enginge temperature from the enginge off the temperature sender. your over fueling on startup due to maf then when warm getting the correct values it readjusts the fuel . Did you change fuel filter aswell

very very easy job to replace . once you see the new one you will see how it is held in and what bolts need to come out. depending on your skill level you mite have to remove the front exhaust pipe

sounds like a earth or a short problem. Pull light down and check the wiring for corrosion and water damage also change the bulb

what we do once we have the sump off is remove the rocker cover and squirt loads of brake cleaner on the camshaft and just let it run down. youd be suprised at how much jellird oil comes out the bottom. Your doing the job the right way and the engine will last you a long time

new link rods are about a tenner from the dealers

get the car plugged into a diagnostic go to abs codes and it will tell you wich sensor is off/ Then either replace it or check the wiring to it. . you will of taking the driveshafts out and thats were your abs sensors are and you've probably banged one when reassembling them.

1st thing it recheck your work. youve probally caugh/missed/damaged a wire if not you need a diagnostic to see were to start

very wise decision. i would also remove the sump and vacum pump and give them both a good clean

weve come across this a few times and if you mean that the fan is not blowing then check the earth going to the resistor . weve seen them burnt out and corroded or just simply broken wires

hasnt really been cold enough for the heater plugs. they dont kick in till minus 5