seefive

I had this problem on a 2002 petrol manual It would misfire as it was warmong up, ran fine stone cold or warm Diagnosis was sticking valves/lifters Wynns lifter cleaner helped, but I never had it fixed - too expensive. Changed the car 2 years ago (for another C5 petrol auto mk 2,no such problems with the new car)

Hi I have a Mk2 petrol exclusive auto 4 speed, following a Mk1 petrol manual 5 speed, and the auto does about 10% less per the computer, although I can't say I notice the difference in terms of how often I fill up. Definitely prefer the auto, and hate diesels with a passion. So I'm stuck in 28 mpg land. Good job I don't pay for my petrol!!

I'm pretty sure the sat nav models have additional controls between the seats, in the cupholder space, so would need quite a bit of work.

Hi and welcome to the site. Nice to see some other petrol owners like me. Feeling quite marginalised! You are right - most problems are with diesels and all their complications. I am on my second petrol C5 and I did have the cat fault, which downgraded to anti pollution, then cleared ,in my old 2002 sx. It was misfiring on warm up and the problem was eventually thought to be sticking valves/lifters. Would have cost more than the value of the car to fix, so lived with it (for 4 years) The car was still going fine on 130k miles when I changed it for a 2008 mk2 2 years ago. No such problems with the newer car. You might try the basics first - plugs, air filter, before going to the garage. You can also get code readers cheaply enough which will read basic fault codes (plug is in the glovebox, behind the fuses) Good luck

The standard underseat loom is for airbags, and motorised seats if fitted. You will need the wiring installed, and the head unit programmed to accept the changer. Your head unit will be the din sized Clarion, not the over-sized Blaupaunkt RD4, which controls the car's settings (auto lights etc)

I've got a late model exclusive (mk 2) with no multi-changer( they took it off the spec) but still has the cage and wiring (never used,still wrapped up) - it has a square bue plug - I think this is the connection, although earlier models may be different ( Clarion v Blaupunkt)

ok - there is a button beside the radio which puts the panel lights into night driving mode. Check that first, then check the fuse marked "navigation system" in the handbook - this protects the central disply, even if you don't have sat nav. It's very unlikely that 3 dash bulbs have gone simultaneously

Thanks for that. To answer your questions.. It doesn't sound like a bedspring - it varies from a slight "Chirp" like a plastic bush, to a louder rattle, never anything really alarming Nothing when you push down on the boot - springs back silently as it should. Drives silently from cold, starts rattling after driving a couple of miles, when you go over a bump. Not affected by different speeds, just different road surfaces. Felt centres of both back wheels after 20 mile drive home tonight - both cool to the touch. Garage checked wheel bearings, arm bearings, exhaust and heat shield - nothing. They are a long-established Citroen specialist and an MOT station, and I've been going to them for the 6 years I've been driving C5's.They were actually very complimentary about the condition and driving characteristics of my car, and they are not the type of place to give you any flannel, if you know what I mean. Car is not due its first MOT yet- I bought it as a repaired cat d - 1 year old, 3k miles, and put it through an MOT before buying , to keep me and the Insurance company happy. Car is now on 23k miles Accident damage was to the front end. All very strange. Maybe I'll just turn the radio up!

What year is your C5? Mk 2's (2005-2008) have a "dark" setting wich blanks out the screen for night driving. Unlikely you have 3 bulbs all blown. Could also be a fuse. Worth checking before you start pulling at the fascia...

Hi I've had a slight squeak/rattle coming from the NSR of my 2008 mk 2 petrol exclusive pretty much since I bought it 18 months ago. I took it into the main dealer in Autumn 2009 and they said there was play in the wheel bearing and arm bearing, and started talking silly numbers to fix. Well I never really believed the wheel bearing story and sure enough there was absolutely no play in the wheel when I jacked the car up. I finally got around to booking ito the indie/specialist garage that do the servicing today and they couldn't find anything wrong at all. They are well used to changing arm bearings, and know the signs (groaning noise when raising the suspension, and traces of rust,apparently) They did find slight looseness on the subframe bolts on that side, and tightened (1/8 turn) but nothing else found.I got a bill for just half an hour's workshop time, but the noise is still there. Any ideas? Am I just being too picky maybe? At the risk of being controversial, are main dealers normally that far off the mark? The wheel bearing "advice" was just crazy...

Yes it is Press the OK button on the radio when you have selected "CLIM" view selected (also on the radio)and the option comes up. Do the same to deactivate.

Can you see anything on the central display? clock, temperature, radio information? I see you were talking about playing with the radio wiring in another post- you may have blown a fuse. Try the one labelled "navigation system" in the handbook. Fuse is on the back row of fusebox in the glove box.

I had a headlamp changed at Halfords on my old Mk1 - for a nominal charge, while I waited. Took about 10 minutes The bumper did not come off. I curently have a Mk2 with Xenons, so wouldn't attempt that, and haven't needed to. £49 doesn't sound that bad, if it includes VAT and the bulb. Shame you didn't have them both changed- economise on the labour charge. Haynes says you can change the bulb without removing the bumber and lens unit, but warns that access is tight.

Great result. Well done. I know where to come when I get into a fight!!

Careful - I think the correct level is halfway up the tank (at the seem) with the car on lowest suspension setting. Not a good idea to overfill. Correct me if I'm wrong anybody..

By "centreless" do you mean fixed centres, that can't be removed for balancing? This shouldn't be a problem for a decent tyre centre - they should have the attachment to bolt the wheels onto the balancing machine, and certainly should not charge extra for that.

Don't diesels sound lovely? :)

Hold the trip mileage reset button in and turn the key until the dash lights come on.It will count down to zero on the trip mileage section, and reset the distance to next service. The spanner will disappear. This is covered in your handbook

LX wouldn't have powerfold mirrors. this is indicated by a picure of a mirror with an turning arrow, on the selector switch ( above the mirror adjust button)and is activated by moving the selector to the mid position, then pulling towards the back of the car. Auto function is switchable by main dealer only. Very unlikely on LX, unless it was an option.

You have a Mk1 C5 and they are a lot easier than the mk2's (the bulbs are deeper inside the lens unit on the Mk2's) I have replaced sidelight bulbs on my old Mk1 and my current Mk2,both sides, and have not resorted to dismantling the front of the car or removing the battery. I am not a nimble fingered contortionist, nor am I especially patient.I'm certainly no mechanic! It takes a couple of minutes per side -trust me. It really isn't that big a deal.

Hi I have a petrol 4 speed auto and it does around 30 , slightly less than official mpg. It sound like your box is changing correctly. The problem with using the tiptronic/manual side is that it still changes down automatically. It's easy to forget to change up, until it's too late and you've wasted fuel. Using the winter setting on auto might help, but I think your problem is not related to the gearbox. There are many far better qualified folks on this board who will have a better idea than me..

Hi John My fingers are about as agile as pork sausages, but I still manage to replace the bulbs myself, rather than pay through the nose for a dealer replacement. I wouldn't attempt the bumper off, light units out approach. Beyond my confidence /competence level. Haynes have it wrong - you don't twist anything to get the bulb holders out - just pull on the wiring, near the surface of the lens unit, and they come out easy. Putting them back involves groping around and pushing the bulb holder while watching the diffuser - when it lights up you're aligned , then it just pushes in. Best done in darkness. A little bit of swearing helps it go in. Can take a minute or two to get the alignment. Probably worth wiping the bulb with a clean cloth after putting it in the holder Looks like there's no reliable solution to the problem of frequent bulb failure, so its worth acquiring the knack..

My Mk 2 C5 was over 2 years old when the first (Original Equipment) sidelight bulb failed. Afternarket bulbs last between 2 weeks and 2 months,with the norm being about one month. I've switched to using bulbs from the main dealer (Lucas) a month and a half ago, replacing both, and so far so good.

Look at the last couple of posts here. May be worth you speaking to these folks http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=9449

The cigarette lighter will give you a switched live source, no idea how to connect and earth it though - need an auto electrician for that.