stimulator

Don't think a foreign trucker would hear it above the noise in his cab? :rolleyes:

Filling the tank and when the pump clicks off can vary dramatically. Some garages pumps deliver at a faster rate, this induces foaming in the tank, especially with diesel. The foam effectively reduces the volume of the tank and comes up the neck of the filler and causes the gun to click off. Other pumps deliver slower, it also depends upon the number of pumps in use at the sametime.. the other factors are temperature and the angle that the car is sat at, it it level more will go in. Fuel gauhges on Citroens are driven via the BSI system which is fed an input from the tank unit. However the decrementing of the gauge is calculated by the ECU which measures the fuel used and takes that off the indication. When the engine and ignition are next switched OFF and then back ON again the tank unit updates the gauge. On my C3 the distance between the top light going off will vary by up to 20 miles. A better indication is the distance to go till refuel after a computer reset. If your last average MPG were similar before refuelling then the distance to go will be similar.

Not bad. Just for comparison one of our 54 reg C3 SX 16V 1.4HDi is currently returning 68mpg on run of 30 miles and an average 62mpg the rest of the time. The other C3 we own is now returning 60mpg it's a 07 reg SX 16V 1.6HDi ater 3800 miles from new.

If it's grit on the brakes I'd expect it all the time. However it's possible it's the brake pads 'singing'. A possible cure for that is the champering of the leading edge of the pad material. If you tap the brakes does it stop, if no then I'd not suspect them.

What else is there on that piece of road, TV/radio transmitter, mobile phone tX, airfield radar TX, car counter wires under road for traffice lights?

Why have you lost all confidence in the car. my spring broke they mended it, car is great. Don't think that it's only Citroen C3 that suffer cos it's not. Picassos, Ford escorts Focus, and BMW Z4's aswell as many others. Be assured that most of these breakages happen when the car is parked OR at very low speed. if you sell it what will you buy to rplace it, more trouble from adifferent maker. Biggest cause of spring failures is sleeping policemne, speed humps and POT HOLES, balme your council.

Full service at a dealers is £250 approx. Required every 12,500 miles or every year (which ever comes first) if a 1.4 8v 70BHP or 1.4 16V 92BHP. The later model 1.6 92BHP is 12,500 or every two years which ever comes first. I don't see ewhy you won't get that sort of mpg, my 1.4 does 61.4 on every tank at 35K 3.5 years old. However the actual depends upon your right foot and the top speed, at 56 to 60 you get a lot more than at 70 mph. If your worried is this the best car for you when there are many others out there to choose from (at present). I do believe that they will start to dissappear when the new VED charges kick in and smaller cars are snapped up for the £30 to 35 VED.

The problem here is that the system is trying to move the diverter flap and it can't due to a broken cog or split nylon gear. This being the case the heating/air con will not work correctly. I suggest you approach the dealer who sold the car to you and tell them about the noise. It was a known item and they may do the job as a free will gesture, yes it has been known to be so. But first check if it does as I say.

Can you get this to the same by pressing the RECIRC button on the control panel. If yes then it's the heater diverter flap stepper motor and is a common fault. What happens when you first start the engine is the flap is moved to take in the internal air as it's effectively warmer than outside. After a few seconds it reverts to outside air. If you can get it to it by pressing the RECIRC then the gear or the flap cog have a broken tooth on them and the noise is the system slipping. My 54 SX did the same. dealer changed it under warranty.

Would suggest taht the speedo is driven by a sensor signal to the BSI computer. dealer will confirm

I would say that your windscreen isn't bonded correctly to the body. Call the company who replacede it and request them to redo the bond.

Re feeeling the aircon cutting in and out. On some cars the aircon unit is allowed to cycle on others it's designed to offload rather than cut in and out so the action is not felt. Retro fitting aircon is expensive, requires the follwoing. Compressor & fitting bracket Condenser unit Dryer Evaporator Pipework Wiring New heater box New facia control panel etc. It would be cheaper to sell your current car and buy one with A/C fitted. Diesel engined cars have more low end torque and therefore the a/c load is not felt as much as petrol cars On C3 diesels the mpg difference is approx 2mpg, I have two diesel C3s and both have auto aircon and are run continuously year in year out. Dial up the temp required and leave alone. The advantages no steamed up windows winter summer autumn or spring. Comfortable driving environment. The mpg loss by opening a window is greater than that of running an a/c. Not running the a/c on a car fitted with one for at least 5 mins a week will result in the syetm leaking its refrigerant. This is because the seals in the system, especially the compressor are kept supple and lubricated by the oil contained in the refridgerant. Would I go back to a NON A/C fitted car? simply never same as I wouldn't go back to a non diesel car. Mobile a/c is not new, what is though is the technology. Cars used to be fitted with A/C if the engine size was 2 litres or above as older generation a/c's were power sappers. Technology now means that you can have a/c on small engined cars, Matiz 803, 3cylinder car had a/c, OK it sapped power but was still a drivable car. I have driven cars where the a/c unit was cut out at revs below 1100 rpm to prevent the engine stalling and to pass the car in front you changed down, switched off the A/C passed, changed up switched on the A/C.

Apparently you can get the cruise fitted for around £100.

This car has electric power steering so you can rule out the drive belt to the steering pump. However it could be the aux drive belt that drives the alternator or for that matter the alternator itself. That is where I'd start looking.

You don't say whether this is a 1.4SX HDi or a 1.4SX Perol On the HDi they have a system that stops the engine stalling at slow speeds. with your foot of the clutch if you bring the clutch up the car will start to move but the engine will increase in revs enough to stop it stalling. You get about 7 mph in 1st 13in second 20 in third. The feeling is rather odd as you can feel the acceleration but your not the one requesting it. this allows you to creep in a traffic queue without having to press the accelerator

The main instrument panel is fitted with LEDS as are the switches. the centre panel with the radio info etc is lit by bulbs, You may be able to change that but as said before see PIC site FAQ. As far a sthe leds go you might be able to change these with filter added to give pink but it would be a technical job and not easy.

Currently own 54 reg SX 1.4HDI 16V 90BHP in Black with grey interior 07 reg SX 1.6HDi 16V 92BHP in Gen metal grey with grey interior Both are fantastic, the 07 even more so. :unsure:

If its YELOW or AMBER and had an engine symbol with lines on it, it's the Engine Mangement system. the most likely cause is the recent service and a sensor has been disturb. Open bonnet and recheck that all visible connectors are fully seated.

The imobilser uses the passive chip in the key fob. I know this is a silly question BUT do both of your keys produce the same effect. There is an aerial wire in the column and the chip forms the missing part of the circuit. try this. Open the key and locate the chip, it's black and mounted by the key blade. remove it from the fob and tape it to the column cover with sellotape or similar. Now insert the key does the engine start. If it does then the immobilser is OK. There were problems with Picassos burning outy their ignition key blocks due to dirty pollen filters. NO don't stop reading it's true. when the pollen filter is dirty the interior car fan has to work harder to move the air so the current load increases. The fan is fed thru the ignition switch and the contacts heat up and melt. result the fan doesn't work but also the switch makes bad contact.

Change the fronts over with the rears and see what happens. On my old Pic therew as a vibration in the rear of the car at 65 to 70. turned out that the rear nearside tyre had a lump in the centre of the tread. New tyre no vib

my Citroen experience is Picasso and C3. On those cars there are microswitches on the brake pedal and the clutch pedal. The one on the brake pedal performs two basic functions 1. It signals the BSI to put on the brake lights 2. It signals the ECU to cut the fuel and/or change the fuel programming. (your braking it doesn't need fuel) On the clutch pedal the switch (when the pedal is pressed) turns the fuel back on so that the engine doesn't cut out at junctions etc. On the Picasso (Xsara) the brake switch very often comes loose so that the wrong info is being sent to the ECU. On early Pics (HDi) if you pressed both the brake and the throttle at the same time you got a 'jerky misfire type reaction from the engine. On my C3 HDis the engine managemnet light comes on. the brake swicth is at the top of the pedal and is a push fit into a housing. it's worth a look.

I am really suprised to hear that they didn't change both at the same time as a matter of course. when my 2004 54 reg C3 HDi broke an offside spring at 32K both were changed FOC. This is due to a) One spring would then have different characterics to the other, :rolleyes: the new spring would cause tthe car to ride higher on that side. My car was not subject to cup recall. the new springs have a grey plastic sleeve on the lower first coil to prevent spring to mounting direct contact.

Isn't the humming noise the fuel pump running. Did you use electro cleaner or electro lube. There is a difference one total evaporates the other leaves a film on the parts. WD40 is a NoNo for this sort of job as it's a moisture dispersant which eventually goes gummy and attracts dust etc. The gummy stuff that is coming out of the plug could be a broken down capacitor or it's bad corrosion on the pin. Both of my C3s are diesel and my Pic was diesel too so the petrolm engine are a different area for me. On my Pic when the imobiliser didn't work the engine would turn but not start and the cure was pull out the key and wait 10 secs and it was then OK. Have a look on the Pic site in technical at ECU you might get some pointers from there.

Sound like the ouput channels in the BSI got out of sequence. It needs a CNTRL ALT DELETE to reboot the PC. This is done by disconnecting the battery for 5 mins so that the charge on the caps etc can dispate then rest. However if it's OK now leave it alone. My 54 reg SX HDI 16V did this once about 3 months ago and after removing the key and waiting a few seconds it has been OK since.

You will have to take out the dash and change the light filters. Your best bet will be to buy a workshop manual that shows how to remove the dash and the lights. You will need to dissmantle the dash panel. Beware it's not cheap to replace if you break it. On thge Citroen Picasso sight there is technical section and in the FAQs there is a set of pictures off how it was done on a Picasso. Yes the dash is different but it shows the filters etc.