stimulator

I note that the original poster didn't answer as to why he wants it turned OFF. Maybe he ended up as a statistic. :huh:

This is shown in the car hand book well on the face lift model haven't checked in the pre-facelift.

There are two ways to find out the recall history on your car. Both will need your VIN number, which is on the car V5 doc and car. 1) Call/visit any main dealer and he will look up your car on the computer. All he needs is the VIN number. A list of applicable recalls will be displayed. 2) Visit the VOSA web site and lookmunder Citroen C3 and scan for your VIN number.

There's a reply to your PM to me in your PM box.

Front or rear/ If its the front then it will be the pads singing on the discs as you first apply them. Are the discs new or have the pads been changed without the discs being changed. very often just removing the pads and putting a chamfer on the top and bottom edges cures this. If its the rears then it could be a similar problem. On rear brake syou have leading and a trailing shoe. This means that one of them (leading) operates first. The trailing shoe will act a leading shoe in reverse and very often this is isn't used much how often do you go backwards and the edges again sing on the drums. Same cure with often work BUT you could also try the following. Find a quiet area and reverse at a abot 15 mph and apply the brakes HARD. Do make sure that there is no one around to hit and you have plenty of room. This will use the trailing shoe (leading going backwards) and bed it. It will also ensure they are auto adjusted.

You do not need the code card to get a key, it just makes it easier. the dealer will look up the car VIN on his computer and find the code from that info, it takes longer and they charge (or can do) for the service. I must admit I do find it difficult to comprehend that owners loose keys and code cards and it doesn't upset them i'd be worried that someone found the key or stole it and then my car. When a car is brought into our ownership the card is placed withe the V5 doc (not left in the car) and the keys put in a safe place.

Broken springs is not an uncommon fault. Mine went on my 54 reg car. The dealers know about this and any that say otherwise are not being honest up front. there was a recall to fit retention cups that stop the broken part of the spring puncturing the tyre. True that recall only covered a certain VIN range. according to citroen my car was outsdie the VIN range but it still broke a spring. The result both changed without quibble.

On the Picasso 20HDi thatw e used to own the pre-heat light was never seen in 5 years. However you could get it to come on, by simply switching on the ignition, then switching it OFF then immediately back ON, then as if by magic the light would appear. Doe sthis happen on your C3.

My 1.4 SX 90BHP HDi did 65 mpg out of the box. at no more than 60 mph It now at 33500K returns 64.7 mpg during warm weather and 60.1 in the cold, all with A/C on. My 1.6 SX 92BHP HDi is currently only now returning 54 MPG at 2300 miles. When first out of the box it was a disappointing 47, which made me go back and complain as on paper it should be better than the 1.4 The reply was that it will improve which it si BUT I was also told to give it a good hammering. that last statement is against my personal code but I must say it does seem to thrive on higher speeds.

welcome good choice, have you got a 70BHP 8 valve or 90BHP 16 Valve. We have a 54 reg 90BHP 1.4 and a 07 reg 92BHP 1.6 HDi's. Wonderful cars love'm to bits

I'd have a look at the pre-heat circuit before going any further. on modern diesels there is a misnomer that the pre-heat doesn't operate unless it's very cold. this is untrue it operates everytime even though it doesn't turn on the warning light (the light isn't fitted to later cars either). when the ignition is turned ON the glow plugs operate to ensure the engine starts they then stay ON till the engine reaches certain parameters, temp & revs in particular. This is to ensure good running and clean exhaust. Once it's running and warm and you then turn it off (say after 5 miles or more) does it start again without a problem? You could also try injector cleaner in the fuel to ensure they are clean, one bottle should be enough.

Sorry forgot to say that the volume part of the stalk if pressed IN towards the column will MUTE the radio/cd. currently getting 65.4 out of the 1.4 SX 16V 90BHP WITH A/C ON. The outside temp has been up at 16/17 around here too which helps the fuel ecconomy too.

The majority of springs break when the car is standing still, or at very slow speed. the reason I was told is that the springs tend to be cold then and brittle. When they are warm they are more supple. Mine like the garage on this thread brok whilst parked outside my house overnight.

Your car trip computer display is operated between readouts by the right hand steering wheel stalk. this if you look closely has two separate halves at the end. the end that sticks out furthest is radio volume, up and down The shorter half has three functions. 1. The arrows change the radio stations or 2 the CD track. But if you press the shorter end IN towards the column it will cycle the computer readout. There is a small O on the centre part. This is also used to reset the computer by holding it IN for more than 3 secs. On facelift models the radio controls are on a separate stalk and the computer is controlled by the button on the end of the column stalk. Hope this helps you.

A similar key for Picasso from a dealer is £133 complete including the programming to the BSI. A key cut by a key shop will never start the engine as it doesn't contain the immobiliser passive chip which is in the fob. The C3s usually come with two plipper keys where as a Picasso only comes with one plipper and a non plipper

The fuse for the power steering is located in the engine bay fuse box, that's on the passenger side or the right side as you look in the engine bay. the fuse is number 6 which is the second from the right on the row in front of the relays. the value is 10A which should be a RED colour. Hope this helps

the power steering on C3s is electric. When you turn the steering wheel you apply a force to a sensor that is fed to the power steering ECU. The ECU signal the powere steering electric pump to switch ON. When you release the steering wheel the system centralises due to the force now applied by the road wheels and the error signal caused by the force sensor. Once the steering is centralised the pump shuts OFF. Now your battery was flat so you may have : 1) A blown fuse in the power steering ECU circuit. 2) Your ECU has lost it's memory. Try disconnecting your battery and waiting 15 secs and reconnect and try again.

One way to tell if it's clogged is to get on a road at night with someone behind you, change down to 4th from fifth and floor the pedal, if it's getting clogged large amount of smoke will be seen in the lights of the car behind. A qick cure for this is to put in a bottle of injector cleaner at the next fill up. I did mine before an MOT and it sailed thru the test for smoke.

To be honest car alarms tend to be more troublesome than assistance toprotecting the car. Have you been in a car park and heard one go off, did anyone take any notice? Most alarms will not deter a thief if he really wants your car. By all means leave a sticker in the window but the flashing immobiliser light will deter. the C3 is fitted with an imobiliser which will deter most theives. It also has dead locks fitted as standard. this you may not know. On the early models the first press of the blipper sets the door locks so that the interior handles will still open the doors from inside, BUT a second press also disables the interior handles. thus if a thief does break in he can't open the doors. On the facelift models the blipper works in reverse and the first blip is the dead locks and the second allows the handles to operate insdie. We have both models of car in our house. BUT no extra alarms are fitted. So in answer to your qusetion I'd have it removed. It's porbably a volumetric alarm which can be triggered by air pressure of a passing car or even a strong gust of wind.

To remove the rear brake drum you have to undo the large central nut on the hub. Once that is removed you pull off the drum.

The waning light shows that the battery is discharging. Under normal conditions thatw ill only happen when the engine is running BUT the alternator is not producing a voiltage above that of the battery. Common cause of this is the diode pack in the alternator, it's an AC (alternating Current generating device) and the diodes change the 3 phases to a DC for the car. The old type system was a generator that was a DC machine, hoever they were inefficient at low revs. An alternator will produce above 12V at engine idel where a generator wont. So in amodern car the red light is usually only seen when the ignition is first switched ON, OR in this case when there is a problem. needs a trip to an auto electrician, diode packs are replaceable but depending on age a new alternator or exchange may be a better bet. Has the old one become contaminated by engine or power steering oil?

As the last poster sys what is your driving style like. Do you change up at about 2100 to 2200 revs and down when it falls to 1800. I never take mine to the max as the torque is all low down. Speeds in excess of 70 reduce the mpg by 9% over those at 60 and a whopping 15% of those at 50. You will note that the government figures are for 56 mph. Whatyou haven't said is what your current mileage is. As diesels get more miles on them so they loosen up, mine is at 34000 and 3.5 years old. However it did show 61.4 from the day we had it. Do you reset your your MPG everytime you fill up? We do have new 1.6 16V 92BHP SX too. That is not as frugal as the 1.4 but it only has 2300 miles on it at 8 months. Yep it really low but it belongs to the other half for her to use when I am at work. The MPG on it is only now getting to 54mpg. Originally it was down at 49. Citroen told me to give it a good high speed run, which I have once or twice hit the 70+ which must have loosened the moving parts. Also the 1.4 when new had normal oil in it which assists the running in as it slightly more abrasive than synthetic. the 1.6 came with fully synthetic in it maybe thats the difference.

If this occurs when the engine is running it shows that the alternator charging circuit is no longer producing more voltage than the battery so the battery is discharging and suppling the car power. Usual suspect would be the diode pack in the alternator or the brushes are worn/sticking. Get it checked.

Believe me they know as there was a recall to fit spring cups to cars within a certain VIN range. Look on the VOSA site for details. This doesn't only affect C3s but many citroens, fords etc.When mine broke on a 54reg within warranty it was all done with no fuss. Yes it was outside the VIN range and I had asked at the second service about that too. They are just rying to fob you off about it.

Currently my 1.4HDi SX 90BHP is showing an average of 65.7 mpg on the mpg readout. Driving is at normal rod speeds in and out of town with a commute of 22 miles each way plus one or two shorter runs. Up to the last fill up it was showing 58. Why the difference well two things it could be, 1) the winter is supposed to be over so the thining agent is out of the fuel. 2) The a/c is currently OFF. Next fill up I'll put the a/c back on. Range this tank will be about 670 miles. 65 mpg is the combined Citroen fuel fig. The a/c may need a top up if it's not getting so cold. Visit an a/c specialist for this.