myglaren

Turned out to be a duff injector. Repaired by a specialist in Blyth, cost £11 to repair it, smooth as silk now :D

A bit of a WAG without further information but oil in the intercooler from the turbo bearings. The run will have cleared most of it out. Nothing quite like an Italian Tune-up. Take the intercooler out and check for oil (there will be a small amount, which is normal) and check the hoses for damage.

It is pretty much all repairable, just the cost can be a problem. If it is lurching when changing or locking into certain gears then you have a big problem. Some faults can be remedied with a diagnostic computer (Lexia) Have a read through this thread for an insight into rebuilding a 4HP20. Brief Encounter II (anything but brief)

There are only two variants if you discount the most recent release of C5s. Hydractive 3 = bog standard. Hydractive 3+ = the good stuff. As for VTR! Haven't a clue.

Have you tried eBay? 16" alloy Or item # 110428752071 if the link fails.

The unit isn't easy to get into as it is sealed against the fairly harsh environment under the bonnet. With any luck Randombloke will have an input, being as he is an electronics tech. - unless I am confusing him with someone else, in which case apologies to both of them.

It certainly is a confusing issue. I put in the proviso for the 4HP20 box as anything other than Esso LT is lethal to it. As with the manual boxes, which should only have Total BV 75/80w in them, anything else will kill the cones.

There is always the GT, of course <_< http://www.autocar.co.uk/contentImages//Car/Citroen/Concepts/2859931529794356x236.jpg

ECU's can be repaired. There have been quite a few cases where the electrolytics have dried out or burst and damaged the board but they can be replaced quite easily by someone careful and handy with a soldering iron. Otherwise there are a few firms offering ECU refurbishment. This being the first one that popped up - not endorsing them or anything.

Make absolutely certain that the box needs Dexron. The Citroen 4HP20 uses ONLY Esso LT transmission fluid and anything else will ruin it. Not too sure about the other autoboxes.

My SX has auto lights and hypothetically wipers although they don't actually work. (auto wipers, autolights work fine)

About six months ago I posted that my car runs very unevenly on idle. Idle speed is correct and it smooths out at 1,000 revs. The engine leaps all over the place and the whole car shakes when idling though. Keep putting off doing anything about it and find that sometimes it is nearly OK, others it almost rattles my teeth. Finally had the codes read today and it came up with only one - P1521: Variable intake solenoid #1 malfunction/EDCI5C2 - Clutch sensor. The engine management light has never lit while I have been running this car 2 1/2 years now. It never seems to pull quite as well as it should, the turbo is almost imperceptible when it comes in and the fuel consumption is pretty rubbish compared with what the majority of posters seem to attain (32mpg) The mechanic I use for my Citroens put a new DMF and clutch in a year ago, suspecting that that was the cause of the uneven running. While it is true that they were both badly worn and about ready to let go, they would probably have lasted a while longer and the problem wasn't resolved by their replacement. Timing belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioners were done not long before that. He was keen to pull the head as he thought that a valve was burning out. I am rather sceptical about this and don't like the idea of pulling the head if there isn't a problem and wanted to explore other avenues before being so drastic - it always seems to me that once the head has been off, the car is never quite the same again so doing it without justification isn't what I would be pleased with. Presuming that the code is correct (it has been cleared and there is no change in the uneven idle) has anyone any experience of this? While the work is being done I'm going to get the EGR, boost valve and solenoids pulled, cleaned/checked and replaced where indicated and also replace all the attendant pipework that so notoriously becomes clogged over time. Anything else I should be looking at while this is being done. All suggestions and comments welcome.

Some Citroen and Peugeot's are the same. Instead of EOLYS they regenerate by - when the engine is hot and running at at least 40mph in 4th gear for ten minutes, will initiate a regeneration cycle that is done by injecting diesel into the exhaust that increases the exhaust temperature (a lot) and burns out the soot from the FAP. When it starts you MUST keep on driving at the same speed for a set time (around ten minutes IIRC) until it is complete. Apparently the car sounds like a tractor while this is happening and kicks out an astonishing amount of black smoke for the duration. EOLYS is intended to minimise this by reducing the temperature at which the soot will burn away. You CAN DIY the replacement of the FAP and refill the EOLYS tank BUT some need to be reset by a dealer once the warning has been displayed and some can't be reset at all. Don't recall precisely what the fix is there but have an idea it may be a replacement computer for the regeneration function. There are two different and very specific EOLYS fluids and it is essential to get the correct one. The stuff used by HGVs is not suitable at all. Uses Urea instead of Cerium salts.

Substituting diesel for the Eolys fluid will work for a while but then the filter will clog up quicker as the eolys is needed to reduce the temperature needed to burn off the soot from the filter. A good long fast run on a quiet motorway will aid the regeneration process. There are some threads on the forum dealing with just that subject.

Seems to be about right but you could save a bit by shopping around. £320 is the lowest quote I have heard, can't recall where though.

I agree but sometimes you don't have a lot of choice. Some dealers (not necessarily Citroen) are so useless or arrogant they give the rest a bad name. Not restricted to car dealers either. ETA: I wish I could find my receipt, it would make it all so much simpler.

As the title. I need, on behalf of another C5 owner, the part number for the climate control module. I went into Town Center Citroen in Sunderland and just asked for one and got it straight away, no messing but this guy can't buy one from his dealership without giving them the part number. Seems rather odd but that is what he is faced with.

It is actually simpler to type in [ url=, then paste the address to go to,(http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=7869&st=0entry38655) then ]Name[/url] where Name= a subject appropriate to the link. As here Sounds long-winded but is dead simple after a couple of goes. *note that in the example there is a space after the [ and before the url=. This is to break the link or all the would be invisible.

It is a faff on but both bulbs can be replaced without removing anything.

Thanks Mikey. You seem to have better info than me, I was unaware of the precise capacity of the cooling system. There do appear to be conflicting opinions on the particular antifreeze that is best suited but I imagine that the dealer supplied stuff ( I still have mine in the boot :lol:* would be the most appropriate one. *Had the timing belt/tensioners/water pump renewed before I got around to using it so the garage put fresh antifreeze in - I had neglected to mention the stuff was already in the car.

I haven't personally but there are descriptions on the forums from some who have - around a 20 minute job, 2 wires to solder, new sensor is £12 from the dealer.

True enough, as with most fasteners and threaded widgets.

Yep, the one that posts here.

The plastic caps have been replaced with thin metal ones as they were found to expand and leak. Mine did on it's last MOT, the tester was lucky to get out unscathed, when I collected the car the pit was full of water and they had taken the cap off one of the (new) tyres and substituted it for the missing one. I suspect that they had revved the guts out of it for the smoke test then stopped the engine without allowing it a minute to settle down. It continued to leak for a while afterwards and I fitted a new metal cap since which it has been fine.

Hang on a minute there guys! Shocks? On an hydraulic Citroen? That's the hydraulic rams. There should be a trace of lubricant on them to prevent sticking and corrosion, surely (just a trace, not LDS weeping down them!).