myglaren

They do that if the car is left unlocked and on a gradient or the wheels turned to full lock, apparently.

I'm having mine done next month, along with a new tensioner, water pump and auxilliary belts. It should have been done at 100,000 as stated above. Looking at the service history booklet gives me no indication whether it has or hasn't been done so I'm getting it sorted just in case - cheaper than a new head/engine.

I get around 32mpg around town (very short trips and long periods between them, so the engine never really warms up). Long distances are much better, I did a 633 mile round trip on one tank (65L). There were some very slow (5mph) bits for several miles on the M1 that probably didnt do it any good, also some running around in Bedford/Milton Keynes but had it been all motorway it would have looked better. Speeds were >70 where appropriate and up to the cars top speed at times. It does get booted around a lot that probably drags the economy down a bit.

Pottering around I rediscovered this site dedicated to Biodiesel, SVO and the like. Here is a very thorough explanaition or the reasons why not to. And this litle gem at the end of it:

A couple of mine were blowing and it was the washers that had burned away. They were replaced but now one of the injector bodies is leaking <_<

I took mine to an independent (always go to the same guy). He fitted new front discs and pads, removed and refurbished the rear calipers and fitted new pads - £130 all in.

I haven't a cite for this but it is generally accepted that HDi engines and SVO do not mix well, if at all. The main problem is gumming of the cylinders leading to broken rings but a Lucas pump will die very quickly if exposed to SVO. I run mine on Biodiesel, previously made from WVO but this has been discontinued and it is now made from converted virgin rapeseed oil. Runs fine, just the same as dinodiesel.

Get some prices from other places than Halfords. They are usually far more expensive than a decent independent.

As Ronin says, it is not very accurate for many reasons. If you have changed your wheels or even if your tyres are a slightly different size to those in the specifications, there will be an innacuracy there. It is driven by the speedo, which is also rarely accurate. All thes innacuracies combine, some can neautralize others while some reinforce others. I have seen many comments on the innacuracy of the trip computer and again, to refer back to Ronin's advice, the only accurate measurement is to record the actual volume of fuel at each fill-up, ideally on a spreadsheet, and add the distance travelled and let the spreadsheet calculate the current and grand averages over a period of time to gain any significant date and display variations from the average.

. That may well have been true of older cars but AFAIK modern fuel tanks are pressurised and tank vapours vented through the charcoal filter into the engine to be burned.

As far as I can determine the suspension ram is designed to leak - into the gaiter. The two hoses attached to the gaiter use the pumping action as the suspension rises and falls to return the fluid to the reservoir. The fluid is not under pressure (or you would have gallons of it on the floor under the car) other than that generated by the gaiter flexing. Your's must be much more badly torn than mine was to dump such quantities of fluid.

Yes, you should, every so often give it a blast down the motorway and kick it around a bit. Before embarking on that though, give it a dose of Forte Diesel System Cleaner - it is a bit pricey - around £13 - but seemed to work well on mine, coupled with a 600 mile round trip at occasionally inadvisable speeds :unsure:

I had the same symptoms but to a far less severe degree, had the gaiter replaced last week. Mine has been weeping gently for a few months now. As he did a few other bits and bobs and some investigative work I couldn't quote a realistic price for just that but in the region of £20 would be close, including the gaiter, which had split in the same place as yours.

What model C5 do you have? How long has this persisted. Is it both passenger and driver side affected. It could be that your refrigerant needs recharging. I had a guy come to the house. Did mine and also my son's 306 D Turbo, replaced a burned out relay and relay seat on the 306, rewired my non-functional tailgate window, £90 inclusive.

Welcome mac150369, Mine packed up on the first trip, never bothered to do anything about it but if you search through the forums you will see that this is a common problem. The stalk can be removed and cleaned, which sometimes works. It could also just be the button stuck in with accumulated muck/polish and the like, a carefull application of contact cleaner on the button and cleaning with a soft cloth may fix that - see that it actuallt depresses fully and releases to the end of it's travel - compare with someone else's know good one to be certain of the operation. If it doesn't release it won't cycle through the functions available. A replacement stalk may be obtainable from a breakers yard. Replacement with a new one is indeed expensive and if it is the computer you need to have it done at a dealer as they will have to download the appropriate software for it to function. £700 will no doubt include this but do make sure they give you a quote for the full price before going ahead with that. Also ring around a few dealers for quotes as the price does vary from one to another of them. An independent with the right tools may be able to do the job at a greatly reduced cost. Not all software is available outside the main dealer network though. The computer module itself is around £230 so the rest is labour and - hopefully - include VAT, which you can get a much better deal on at an indie.

Breakers yard - or possibly eBay.

I have a similar problem but have been far too indolent to try and rectify it. Mine is stuck on the default screen - odometer, tripomometer, service interval/oil level and such. There are quite a few threads here devoted to just that problem, a bit of a search will bring up all the info anyone could hope for on the subject. It doesn't seem to be too difficult. I'm almost inspired.

Which reasonably describes mine - found in the Autotrader. Silver SX 2.0 HDi Estate in very good nick, clean as a whistle, used as a fleet car, 112,000 on it when I bought it, 120,000+ now. No major issues and very few minor ones. (up to now, anyway).

I had my tyres balanced at ATS and the tracking done too. They had the adaptor but I had to wait a couple of days as they had run out of stick-on weights. As far as I could tell they did a decent professional job and all has been fine since. I was run off the road by a pickup truck and it knocked the tracking out so I went to the dearest place out of sheer awkwardness (I wasn't paying) My autolights also illuminate in very bright sunlight and I have chalked it down to being a safety feature - easier to see oncoming headlights in bright sunlight. I would use the lights under such conditions anyway - actually, I would normally have the lights on under any conditions, always have had since living in Sweden.

Indeed - I have no idea of the book price but I paid £4k for mine just over a year ago. Welcome to the forums Spoon. WRT the CV joints/shafts, couldn't say. Done any amount on the GS but none since. Edited to correct serious dumnity - got the names mixed up :)

'52 plate 2002 2.0 HDi SX estate, 120,000 +. Owned it 15 months, no major problems, just wear and tear. Tyres, exhaust, new front brake discs and pads, new rear pads and calipers refurbished. Trip computer packed up on bringing it home, air conditioning ditto, must get the AC sorted one day-soon! Runs on Biodiesel when I'm working as they make it next door. Been off on sick leave 4 months though so normally gets filled up with dinodiesel at Sainsburys. Does 32MPG around the houses, 47+ on a decent run. Rain sensor doesn't work either, so soggy seats today as I left the winderz open overnight ;)

My first though is a problem with the DMF - see the related threads on this.

There was on thing that Ford did a few years ago that is more than likely discontinued. When I was buying parts for my daughter's Fiesta, they had a system whereby for the life of the car or the duration of the ownership they would replace that part indefinitely if it broke in service.

I have hardly used mine for the past week, just to the supermarket half a mile away. Today I took a longer trip on some bendy roads with lots of roundabouts. My preferred driving technique involves not slowing down for bends and roundabouts and while I have never previously been aware of any significant body roll I didn't like to comment untill I had done the acid test. My C5 sailed through it, literally. While I do have some criticisms of the car compared to the Xantia, body roll is a non-existant factor. I deliberately booted it through the bends and it was a stable as you could ask for, except perhaps for an Activa, which I have never experienced but understand is quite a revalation to geezers driving other 'sports saloons'. I'd say get someone who is clued up to test drive your car and check the suspension out, sharpish. Not a 3+, by the way.

There are a lot of "Stuck Door" threads, you must just have been unlucky in your search. My driver's door stuck intermittently for a while and I discovered that a little shove from outside or a push from inside would release it. I think probably I just hadn't exerted enough force closing it. Dosed the catches with silicon lubricant and the problem sems to have gone away. While it may not work for you, as there are other problems with locks and catches, it is the cheapest and simplest thing to try first.